Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#7751
40th anniversary Edition
I made bold the root of my question. My answer was there before asking and thanks for your input. It helps me clarify.
The $6600 quoted by the dealer for a replacement engine is CAD. It’s the easy button solution with too many unknown details in the build. I haven’t come to a final quote from the engine builder since details aren’t final due to me researching. Balanced parts would be supplied to him prior to assembly.
The $6600 quoted by the dealer for a replacement engine is CAD. It’s the easy button solution with too many unknown details in the build. I haven’t come to a final quote from the engine builder since details aren’t final due to me researching. Balanced parts would be supplied to him prior to assembly.
Back in the day, all of our Racing Beat built race rotary engines, including the one in my race turbocharged RX7 had balanced parts . Those engines lasted longer being run at high rpms with those balanced parts.
Cheers
#7752
sounds like the classic symptoms of Series One fuel pump failure. Have the recall done if not done already. When a dying pump gets warm it will shut down, then after it cools off it will work enough for a while. I solved this issue with a change to a Series Two fuel pump, a different pump with different construction and improved performance.
A key is how old is the pump and is it an original OEM series one fuel pump. If it is an original series one fuel pump, it is long past its life expectancy.
A key is how old is the pump and is it an original OEM series one fuel pump. If it is an original series one fuel pump, it is long past its life expectancy.
#7753
sounds like the classic symptoms of Series One fuel pump failure. Have the recall done if not done already. When a dying pump gets warm it will shut down, then after it cools off it will work enough for a while. I solved this issue with a change to a Series Two fuel pump, a different pump with different construction and improved performance.
A key is how old is the pump and is it an original OEM series one fuel pump. If it is an original series one fuel pump, it is long past its life expectancy.
Cheers
A key is how old is the pump and is it an original OEM series one fuel pump. If it is an original series one fuel pump, it is long past its life expectancy.
Cheers
#7756
40th anniversary Edition
I do not recommend putting another Series One Fuel pump in, at any cost. It was a truly flawed design and will just give you issues again over time. That is why Mazda changed the fuel pump for the Series Two RX8 to a different design and a different manufacturer. .
The RX8Club here has a thread on how to change that pump for the better Series Two Fuel pump. You need to search it ,and get a Series Two Pump, if you can find one, and swap it out. Others have used other brand aftermarket pumps, with varying success.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...ries-i-230326/
I followed the DIY to the letter, with some help of a local Mazda mechanic and it worked perfectly, and solved all my fuel pump issues, even in hot weather, long highway drives and fast cornering. The Series Two fuel pump is the fuel pump Mazda should have had in the Series One from the beginning.
I haven't had a singe issue since installing the Series Two Fuel pump, works like a charm.
Cheers and best to you.
Last edited by gwilliams6; 01-22-2023 at 11:51 PM.
#7757
My local RX specialist who did it the first time is gone. Is this a common enough job to take to any reuptable mechanic or should I find a specialist again?
Thanks.
#7758
doubt about renesis engine.
Hi everyone \o/
If i install one more rotor in engine of rx-8, the rebuilding time will be more longer ?
I have this conclusion because the two rotors that have it work a lot, and maybe one more could stabilize.
If i install one more rotor in engine of rx-8, the rebuilding time will be more longer ?
I have this conclusion because the two rotors that have it work a lot, and maybe one more could stabilize.
#7759
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
It would be VERY EXPENSIVE and not easily done.
If you are an expert mechanic with a lot of money to burn, you might be able to do it, if not, forget it.
#7760
Registered
iTrader: (1)
You could just not rev the engine as much, but it turns that that's also not a good way to keep a renesis alive for a long time (quite the opposite).
Seen another way, adding a rotor adds a rotor worth of possible failure points, without removing any from the existing 2 rotors. It will fail *sooner*
#7761
Is anyone else having trouble loading the Foxed.ca manuals?
I wasn't getting it on Edge; I tried Chrome and no problem, so ignore.
I wasn't getting it on Edge; I tried Chrome and no problem, so ignore.
Last edited by Slick1983; 01-30-2023 at 12:12 PM.
#7763
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
no trouble for me on either safari or firefox, but once you figure it out please have the courtesy to give the site a donation no matter how small
because everything there is a great resource that many people take for granted, but it takes money to keep all that information up and available to one and all.
.
because everything there is a great resource that many people take for granted, but it takes money to keep all that information up and available to one and all.
.
#7764
my car won't start after brake pad rotor swap
Hey guys. I was doing a brake pad and rotor swap on my 04 rx-8 manual trans. It took me a about a week to get it done, because I ended up not having the right tools to depress the caliper. I finally got everything back together on the rear driver side. I go to start my car to flip it around so I can do the other side and it won't start. New battery and spark plugs within 6 months ago. Battery is fine but just cranks and won't turn over. I assume flooded. I followed steps online but it doesn't seem to be doing anything. I am looking for someone to explain how to de-flood properly on here but I can't seem to find anything with the search feature. Sorry for bothering everyone I hope to get this fixed as I already couldn't afford a mechanic for the pad/rotor job so this on top is gonna cause a lot of trouble. Cheers!
Last edited by prodtfm; 02-09-2023 at 08:32 PM.
#7765
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
Hey guys. I was doing a brake pad and rotor swap on my 04 rx-8 manual trans. It took me a about a week to get it done, because I ended up not having the right tools to depress the caliper. I finally got everything back together on the rear driver side. I go to start my car to flip it around so I can do the other side and it won't start. New battery and spark plugs within 6 months ago. Battery is fine but just cranks and won't turn over. I assume flooded. I followed steps online but it doesn't seem to be doing anything. I am looking for someone to explain how to de-flood properly on here but I can't seem to find anything with the search feature. Sorry for bothering everyone I hope to get this fixed as I already couldn't afford a mechanic for the pad/rotor job so this on top is gonna cause a lot of trouble. Cheers!
It's been my experience that if the battery isn't close to 100% it can be hard to start.
Be sure your terminals are clean and tight.
Even though the bolts are tight the terminals stretch and can be loose.
Do you have a booster?
If not you could also try jumping another car on it.
There are multiple deflooding threads.
If it's actually flooded it requires patience unless you get lucky.
You have to either depress the gas pedal or pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it until it sounds like it's trying to start before letting it get fuel again.
It takes a little trial and error.
Repeated attempts to deflood drains the battery as well.
A booster is really helpful if your battery is weakened.
It's important to wait a bit between cranks so you don't burn up the starter.
Last edited by BigCajun; 02-10-2023 at 11:29 AM.
#7766
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
^^ I recently bought a lithium booster/compressor to keep in my vehicles.
If you can afford it, it could help you out in this instance and emergencies as well.
I just used it to start my wife's Venza that had been sitting for a month.
Modern cars have more parasitic draws on the battery than older ones.
If you can afford it, it could help you out in this instance and emergencies as well.
I just used it to start my wife's Venza that had been sitting for a month.
Modern cars have more parasitic draws on the battery than older ones.
#7768
40th anniversary Edition
Hey guys. I was doing a brake pad and rotor swap on my 04 rx-8 manual trans. It took me a about a week to get it done, because I ended up not having the right tools to depress the caliper. I finally got everything back together on the rear driver side. I go to start my car to flip it around so I can do the other side and it won't start. New battery and spark plugs within 6 months ago. Battery is fine but just cranks and won't turn over. I assume flooded. I followed steps online but it doesn't seem to be doing anything. I am looking for someone to explain how to de-flood properly on here but I can't seem to find anything with the search feature. Sorry for bothering everyone I hope to get this fixed as I already couldn't afford a mechanic for the pad/rotor job so this on top is gonna cause a lot of trouble. Cheers!
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...lumber-182410/.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...rx-8-a-223357/ (skip to step three here in this DIY)
Cheers and best to you.
If you have fresh coils, fresh plug wires, fresh plugs, have the upgraded starter (the original '04 starter was the worst and weakest) , fully charged battery with high enough cranking amps., and have had the fuel pump recall done, it should start, and you should never have it flood, really. Anything still original to '04 in this system should be replaced.
Last edited by gwilliams6; 02-11-2023 at 02:54 AM.
#7770
Bigger Cat
Hi, I have a one dumb question for you....I was at the emission control and I failed the test... the car is fine, the spark plugs are fine, the engine is after a rebuild, I only have 8k km on it... the exhaust has the original catalytic converter. In one e-shop I found a cat that meets EURO6. The question is how much would it damage the engine if I installed this cat. If it helps here is brand and part number NAP carparts CAK10421... If its a bad idea just tell me how to pass please... I really love this car...
#7771
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Hi, I have a one dumb question for you....I was at the emission control and I failed the test... the car is fine, the spark plugs are fine, the engine is after a rebuild, I only have 8k km on it... the exhaust has the original catalytic converter. In one e-shop I found a cat that meets EURO6. The question is how much would it damage the engine if I installed this cat. If it helps here is brand and part number NAP carparts CAK10421... If its a bad idea just tell me how to pass please... I really love this car...
The RX-8 needed a huge cat just to meet Euro 4. Euro 6 cars have engines that burn much more cleanly in the first place, so they don't necessarily need cats that big. That doesn't mean the one you linked won't work; it just means we can't tell what the result would be.
The site says it's specifically for the RX-8 so that helps. My guess is that this is an off-the-shelf cat, suitable for Euro 6 vehicles, welded into an RX-8 compatible section. I wouldn't expect this to make your RX-8 compliant with Euro 6, but if the vendor is trustworthy, it might help your car pass the emissions tests that are relevant for it.
Longevity will be another matter. Aftermarket cats have... a checkered history in this car.
Are you sure cat efficiency is what's causing you to fail the test? Makes sense to suspect that but I'd look at everything else just to be sure.
Maybe you can find an S2 RX-8 cat that someone has removed. The S2 cat is bigger and should be much more resilient than aftermarket options.
Last edited by IamFodi; 02-12-2023 at 08:22 AM.
#7772
Thanks for the reply... I know EURO 6 on the cat doesn't mean I can meet this standard... I was wondering if it will help to get through EURO 4... and about used parts... not many owners in my country ... I think it will be a catalyst. as I wrote, the engine has been rebuilt and has driven only 8k Km, although it eats too much fuel, something around 15-18l / 100km on the highway. I will have to check the spark plugs though those should be fine as well. I came to the test with some premix, even though it should be very little... the bad thing about the test is that the technician has to let the engine run for 1 minute at 900rpm, the same at 2000rpm and finally at 4500rpm... in the upper revs, the test is almost it passed but it was terrible with the bottoms.. I'll try to take the cat down and clean it, or check if it's still whole...it's a pity that we don't have many people who can help with the work around these engines...
#7774
Yes, Slovakia... post from test show CO at increased RPM must be no more than 0.2000 and mine are 0.5200... HC values should be max 60, mine are 418...the oil in the fuel significantly increases emissions according to what the technician said. He automatically took it as engine damage and I had to explain to him that the Wankel is built that way...
#7775
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Yes, Slovakia... post from test show CO at increased RPM must be no more than 0.2000 and mine are 0.5200... HC values should be max 60, mine are 418...the oil in the fuel significantly increases emissions according to what the technician said. He automatically took it as engine damage and I had to explain to him that the Wankel is built that way...
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Darion (02-12-2023)