In addition to what the others said:

Windshield's take a beating at the track. My brand new windshield was full of small chips after 1 track day. It's good to have glass coverage on your insurance if you are going to track your car. Most of the time glass coverage allows for at least one free replacement every year, even if its just chipped. A couple coats of RainX might help, but only so much.

It's worth noting that your paint will be taking the same beating. A few good coats of wax will help here. Also painters tape, lots of it! You can never have too much painter's tape (unless it starts falling off on track lol). I also recommend a clear-bra for added protection.

 

I have looked and cannot find what I'm looking for through the search. I'm trying to find a step by step complete with parts list for a 13b swap out of a 3rd gen RX7 into a 1st gen RX8. I'm not planning on doing this anytime soon I'm just really interested in learning about it.

 

1. Where can I buy an OEM cabin air filter cheaper than the dealership?
2. Are the Aldehyde filters worth the extra cost?
3. Where can I get those?

 

I've never found a step by step but this should be the closest you will get.
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...t=13b+rew+swap
So read up. Plenty of info in this thread.

 

1. Go to Home Depot or Lowes and look for a furnace filter with material that looks similar to the stuff in the OEM filter. I believe there's a DIY on this, if the next step is not obvious.

2,3. Don't know if they're better - probably depends on your breathing habits and allergies. But the aldehyde filters are a proprietary Mazda item. If you want to go cheaper, maybe look at the claims Mazda makes, and look for a furnace filter that makes similar claims.

Ken

 

I'm a brand new rx8 owner, and brand new to the forums! Made my account this morning and have been reading a ton all day.

My dad just moved my car without telling me and I just found out. Obviously he ran it and turned it off cold because he didn't know. What's the chances of it getting flooded, and how much damage does doing that to the car once cause?

It's a 2004, if that's any use.

 

slim chance - depends on how well it has been looked after . The chances of a flood go up according to a logarithmic scale with never changed the plugs/battery/leads at one end and well maintained at the other ......

 

Doesn't cause any real damage.

Do you know if it's even flooded?
Have you gone out to try?

Just because this situation occurred doesn't mean it's flooded ... it's just not ideal to do.

 

No, it's not flooded, it cranked just fine :D. I was mainly just curious as to the damage a single cold running would do. Thanks guys.

 

"cold" running isn't so much an issue. Cold Redlining though... that might be a problem.

 

Cracked housing... no big deal

 

definitely keep the revs below 3k before she's nice and warm.... and just because your coolant level is at the mid point it doesn't necessarily mean your oil is quite ready. Waiting 10 minutes (measured by my ability to smoke a cigarette) for your 8 to warm up is a very good habit... nevermind the smoking

 

When cruising, what is the best rpm range to keep the car in? I keep hearing under 3k for decent mpg...then I read 3k-5k is better..Who do I believe here lol. Probably been discussed before but there are so many different answers D:

 

There are tons of theories, and it can depend heavily on the health of the various fluids, ignition components, etc...

In pure efficiency, I believe the sweet spot for the engine is ~4,200rpm. However, in 6th gear this is about 83mph, which isn't efficient aerodynamically. Expected mileage does improve dropping below this point, but because you are reducing the aerodynamic resistance at a greater rate than you are are losing engine efficiency. Dropping from 80+ to ~70 improves the milage around 10% (~20mph to ~22mpg for me)

In day-to-day highway cruising, about 3,200rpm at about 63mph or so in 6th is probably the pure best.

 

is it normal if Im going 60mph on the highway in 4th gear, floor the car and when the turbo kick in it makes the car breaks loose?? I'm going to have to call mazda, I almost hit a car last week. Show off..

 

Would definately get that checked at the dealership . Make sure they go for a test drive to replicate the issue .

 

I think I found the problem. I'm going to need you to send me your engine and all engine components and I will send you a healthy engine that fixes the problem.

 

you guys are so kind..

 

Is there a colour associated with a reman engine?
I've read somewhere here (cannot find it now) that a reman engine has blue housings? and a new engine will have silver (painted silver) housings?
I have just received engine #3 and it looks like the housings are silver or a silver metallic colour.

 

Mazda doesnt paint housings or irons on either new or remans...so they will both have alum housings

 

I just purchased a 2005 Blue 6-speed manual with 56k miles in amazing condition. First time poster. Do i make a new thread about it? :B

 

Sure - that's how a lot of people introduce themselves and their car to the forum .Make sure you post some pics of the car as well .

 

Great first post.
I would recommend posting it in your local region section or Multimedia/Photo Gallery if you have lots of great pics. Maybe even the lounge.

Welcome, you're off to a great start.

 

Hi all,

I have a 2010 RX8 with just over 10K miles. I have seen my gas mileage improve as my car "ages" from around 15 MPG to where I now get over 16.5 MPG. I just want to make sure that this is "normal" and not a strange sign of something bad starting...

I have not changed gas stations and I drive my car the same way I always have so I am at a loss...

Thanks,
Yogi

 

Not sure if this was covered somewhere else, but how do ignition coils work from an electronic standpoint? Dwell ... etc ... what I do know is the coil charges under dwell ... so is it sort of like a powerful capacitor that is discharged for spark? Why do coils go bad? What happens physically speaking?