LOL
C - C is for COOKIE!

Just messing with ya dude

 

I don't know much about when it comes to using parts off of other cars (different makes) so heres my question: Is it possible to use the Brembo calipers off of a g35/350z on our 8? I see these calipers for sale considerably cheap...

 

I checked on http://www.myboltpattern.com/Bolt-Patterns.php and the hub size is different. If I ever get my rotors back from USPS, which lost them on the way to a buyer, I have a great deal on top quality front rotors.

 

I got another one!

Besides the obvious downsides of rough warm starting why are people (context -- Forced Induction) so quick to swap out motors with low compression?

It seems to me if we could overcome some of the pitfalls of lower compression #s FI could breathe new life into an alleged "bad" motor.

 

I'm looking at just the calipers. Unless you need to use the different rotors with those calipers...

 

I didn't think there was a large migration to lower compression rotors?

My very limited understanding is the belief that a low compression engine can handle and high boost pressure thus returning a higher HP and Torque values.

NOTE: I've not seen dyno's nor been part of any dyno event/tuning session that specifically looked at this, it's just what I've read in the threads here and there.

The problem seems that the increased IAT values with large boost to get low compression motors to deliver the same power as high compression motor with lower boost.



That's all I've got

 

Very similar observations here, wcs which is why I put it out there. The question of whether a lower compression motor by design or "age" is viable remains unknown too.

 

Gotcha
LOL well I would say unscientifically I'm doing a lower compression test by age.

My motor has gone through the nitrous phase and is now on the turbo stage ... it now has 80,000 km's on it.
I'm still waiting for my TR1 compression tester

Can't wait to see what my compression is.

 

I'm in a very similar boat and given the tale-tell signs I'm starting to see some of those compression woes (50,000 miles, 18,000 boosted) others have raised in the past.

Whether it drives me to a "new" motor or an external wastegate remains an open item for me.

 

Anyone know?

 

Anything is possible with the right amount of money.

They most likely wouldn't not be a direct swap, why are you interested in the 350z brakes?

 

Like Shady said...anything is possible but you had better have a machine shop on hand to build the brackets....

 

I think they would look good on my car. And I've seen a few sell for fairly cheap amount. But if it'd take a few hundred to get them to fit, I'll save my money for a real big brake kit

 

This question is probably better suited for "The Tech Garage," but I'm posting it here to avoid getting flamed. My rear differential isn't locking correctly when sliding to the right. When I start to the left everthing is normal (it locks quckly, and the car starts to slide or "drift"). But when I do the same thing to the right it almost acts like an open differential; the rpm's shoot up and the car doesn't rotate. Eventually it will lock and start to slide, but it takes longer than it should. Like I said when going to the left it locks almost immediately. I've done some research on torque-sensetive lsd's and can't seem to come up with a logical explanation for this. I also performed some extensive searching and didn't find anything that pertained to this specific problem.

Additional information:
It's the stock differential with about 82,000 miles, and the oil was changed a few thousand miles ago. The problem mainly occurs during low speed intiations (around 5 mph).

Edit:
Smooth clutch engagement appears to help. I know that when you lift one wheel on a car equipped with a torque-sensetive lsd it will completely unlock and perform like an open differential. Is it possible that harsh clutch engagement is creating a similar effect? Even so, I don't understand how that would make it bias to one side like I'm experiencing.

Thanks in advance.

 

Maybe it's not a dumb question if nobody can answer it . I've done some asking around an no one seems to know enough about differentials to give me a straight answer. Although anecdotal, my friend has an fc (also utilizing torque-sensetive lsd) that does the same thing. I'm starting to think this is normal for this type of differential; although it still seems wierd. Anybody?

 

Dude .... yup I would say your inquire is a lil out of the league of this thread.
No probs.

Sorry I can't answer you question, I'm not a drifter so I've not experienced that sort of thing.

The forum has two other threads you may consider as well ...

The Drift forum (maybe the one I would try first)
https://www.rx8club.com/drifting-169/

Competition Race forum
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-racing-25/

Did a quick google search
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-racing-25/rear-differential-problems-any-advice-224093/
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/welded-diff-options-202042/

I don't know much about the topic, hopefully this might find you a forum member who does.

GL

 

Thanks man, that's actually pretty helpful; I suppose I'll take this question elsewhere. I pm'd the OP of the 4th link down (claimed the stock lsd wasn't working well for drift) and apparently his problems were almost identical to what I'm experiencing. That accompanied by my friends fc has brought me to the conclusion that this is fairly common for those who try to drift. Now to find out if its normal operation or a common failure. Anyways, thanks a bunch .

 

SWEET
Thanks, I'm glad it was useful

 

ok, serious question here. I bought the rx8 with the third pedal. the sales guy said it would drive the same and be a little faster if i use the third pedal right. I bought it but payed the extra 500 dollar delivery fee to get it taken to my house because i wasnt trading in my other car. I got in the car and turned the key, it won't turn on. I thought that it might have something to do with the third pedal. Oh and by the way, what does the third pedal do? The way the guy described it, it sounded like its a turo pedal. Is that right?

 

The third pedal is only in there if the car has been totaled. It is a back up brake since if the car was totaled, the second pedal could fail and now you have an extra. Since it was totaled, you may want to sell it to me for 1/3 the price you paid. PM me.

Am I going to get banned now?

 

Nice try

 

What the heck is a 3rd pedal ?

 

How do I do multiple different user quotes in the same response?

 

Next to the "Quote" button, there is a "+" button.

If you want to quote three posts, click the "+" on each of the first two, then the "Quote" button on the third.