I would lean more towards the VDI and SSV being open or closed versus the APV, worth a shot though.

I'm almost wondering if the VDI and SSV vacuum lines got criss-crossed and plugged into the wrong solenoids. Causing the SSV to be open and the VDI to be shut.

 

Hey
The VDI and SSV vacuum lines are not long enough to switch into the wrong position. the one for the VDI will not reach the ssv.

I will look into the temp sensor and make sure it plugged in in a bit.

What were you wanting pictures of exatly.

I could also snap a photo of a map on the INT-x if you would like to take a look. ITs hooked up again,

 

SAomething else i noticed is that in the Microtech software, when you press on the gas pedal, teh TPS does not start registering untill the pedal is about half way down. could this be an issue?

Oh, and where is said temp sensor?

 

ECT is by the thermostat housing....by the passenger side of the alternator...below the SSV area

 

this problem sounds strangely familiar to mine.

 

Do you not have a real factory service manual? There's a whole list of potential causes with detailed procedures on how to sort through them on this issue.

 

Whew.... sorry I've been out on mission and missed this.

FWIW - here is what I would do.

1 - Bedding seals, I don't buy it. CRH put in taller ceramic 1 piece seals in mine and it held idle from the first crank.
2 - Int-X has a very well known hot start and low vac idle issues. As vacuum under idle approaches 0 - you get off the idle map and onto the boost map which fires the big injectors and car stalls. Hot start is due to the temp map being a joke. Best I ever got on the int-x was hot run all the time, cold start all the time, hot turn off had to wait 5 minutes before it would restart if the motor was heat soaked. Happened once out of every 10 times in the summer in HI, very annoying when running errands.
3 - Your large injectors should be in the P2 position, but the Int-X gangs the Sec and P2 so it shouldn't be an issue except for number 2 above.

The MAF for the esmeril kit is way way way off for the factory PCM, coupled with an air leak I think the factory PCM will not run it. The Int-X has live tuning, see what the load cells are that it is hitting, if you are idling with less than 12 inHg of vacuum you got a leak (assuming the motor is not toally FUBARED).

If you are going to use the Factory PCM, you need to log MAF and get back to us. Either way go with one, since trying to bounce between them is an issue. Since your MAF tube is smaller than factory and blow thru - the factory PCM is already gonna be pissed (over-reporting air), if you add in an air leak then I can definitely see it dieing at idle.

Rich AFR's plus stalling on PCM and Int-X lead me to vote un-metered air leak somewhere, the MAF and or Vacuum readings will tell the tale.

If you can run it, then I wouldn't sweat fuel and spark at the moment. Statistically it is going to be air related / tune related.

 

went out and pull started and drove the car about five miles down a highway and back. car was running rich.. AFRs in the 10s. got back and parked the car. came in and read this then went back out and did a quick short log. best i could do with it being in town so second gear. enjoy..

 

also, as stated above, the microtech does not read the throttle till its about half way presse. i dont remember it being quite like that before... is this right? can this be fixed. I did the tps cal and have it "calibrated" but still does nto read till half throttle.

 

Yeah you can calibrate the throttle.

Is the start of that log you at idle?

 

nope... thats after getting pull started... then stoping at a stop sign so i had to keep the motor running... then once i got on the strait i hit the log button for a block.

 

I will go out and log a little more around 4 ish... is there anythign specific you want... at idle ... at speed. what values? i will do what i can

 

As close to idle as you can get it - lowest rpm, I need to know what the load value is.

You can throw in fuel and timing too for fun.

 

ok will do... i will post it up as soon as i can get it

 

ok, so went out and did some logs. out on the highway and i would put it in neutral and try to get it to idle. here are three logs of me doing that. i woudl ease down the rpms untill it shoudl hold at idle but it died. here are the logs.








Also, i checked the codes since it threw a light. They were P0172 and P0139. I cehecked the 02 seinsors and all are connected. Also, if you look at the Air Fuel, it stayed at 10.3 constantly with no change at all the whole drive. ... also if the throttle was held constant, the motor would stutter and the timing gauge on the microtech woudl jump around.

anyway. anyone gather any info from this? thanks guys

 

Is 10.3 as low as it goes ?

 

My after market gauge was reading correctlyits usually in the 12s but is way rich and had seen the 10's many many times during the drive. The one in the car that the microtech was reading was giving it a 10.3 reading. i am assuming it is maxed out rich. the p0172 code is a code for being to rich.

 

Did it run on this map before??

There seems to be a ton of fuel??

What's with the throttle?

 

It looks like vac leak to me....at least for starters.

Notice as you are off throttle, the load goes toward zero which causes it map to dump more fuel into a rich situation and stalls it out.

I am not sure what the throttle deal is, but the car looks to be basically drowning it fuel. Right before the car stalls is your After market gauge reading in the 11 or 10's?

 

always start with the basics

first, you previously fried some electrical stuff which culminated with a bad motor

second, if you don't verify key components are functioning properly you're only setting yourself up for a tail chasing session i.e. start adjusting fuel tables when you have a bad throttle body or ECT sensor, etc.

You need a real bound Mazda service manual and a logical systematic approach rather than the usual forum keystone kops Chinese fire drill. In his infinite wisdom Ray tried to get you there, but you seem to be reacting half hazardly with no real results. Finding the solution is only as difficult as you make it ....

 

They are 1 inch apart on the vacuum accumulator canister where the three solenoids are arranged.

 

correct they are in inch apart, but the lines are also different lengths, short medium and long. the short one will not reach any farther then where it is supposed to go. trust me i went out and tried switching them jsut to see if i wold get any reaction out of the car.

i will do what i can for searchign for a vacuum leak. i really have looked many times for hoses that are loose or off or anything like that. cant seem to find anything.

I have an offer from Steve K to remote access my laptop and take care of the microtech for me, but if its a hard issue such as a vacumme leak then i dont want to waste his time.

Yes, i have ran the car off of this map before. We also had this same issue with the stock computer in, remember.

ok, i will check out the car again for any vacuum issues i can find and i will see if i cant find a service manual with some procedures to follow for some trouble shooting. thanks fellas. any hints or tips on finding a leak, let me know

 

Went outside snoopin aroudn the intake and i found that i have misplaced the two bolts that hold the black plastic oil fill piece (thats the technical term) to the upper intake. The factory manual shows them holding a bracket. it would also be on the driver side. DOes anyone know if these are tapped all the way into the manifold and would be causing a vacuum leak? also what size bots would it be. it seems like a 10mm bolt will not thread in and is to large.

On a side note, i replaced all the red circular rubber gastkets on the intake during the rebuild. Would this be a problem or issue... is it possible to install the rubber gaskets wrong?

 

The answer to both of those is a potential "yes", though if memory serves the metal bracket isn't all the way into the intake, but if you put too long of a bolt in there you can punch through.

Best way to go is to have someone hold the car running and spray carb cleaner into suspected areas, if the RPMs rise suddenly and or the engine changes tone, you have a vacuum leak in that area.

 

hmm... good way to test i suppose. i may try that. however i just got done hookin a vacuume up to the intake. Light a cigerette and gave it a tour of my engine bay. smoke never indicated being sucked into the intake anywhwere. of any of the hoses underneith. i even unhooked a hose to make sure i was getting vacuume inside the intake. I will try the start the car and carb cleaner trick. even though i had no luck with the smoke.

on a side note, i looked inside the intake, the bolts for the bracket do not go fully into the intake.