First i tried your starter method. I got in and hit the key and nothing, no sound of the starter wanting to spin or anything. Not sure if it was a dead or low battery or some safety thing wehre it was not getting a signal from the position sensor or some other sensor but either way the starter would not turn over.

I then removed the starter and it being only myself had no way of getting a screw driver to stay int eh flywheel teeth. So i used the box end of a wrench to catch the teeth between the outside edge of the housing and broke it loose with a breaker bar.

I still hope its only a stackign issue, but why would the front stationary gear bearing be the way it is? asking out of curiousity - not saying your wrong.

 

Also, steve has told me several times that he checked the endplay on my motor after the rebuild. Said there was no problems with it. Shouldnt there be an issue there if the stack was wrong, or not necisarily?

 

I've had this failure myself. I know what it looks like.
The front bearing gets whacked because of the significantly increased run-out caused by the destroyed needle bearing. If you don't replace your front stationary gear bearing, your will lose your front rotor and everything attached to it at some point.
I won't comment on Steve's insistence on having checked the end-play (end-play would seem normal once the stack is tightened, even with this bearing pinched), but the failure you suffered is the result of ignoring this instruction in the FSM:

 

Makes since about how the bearing would get chewed once the needle bearing got destroyed because, yes, the endplay would then change greatly. So all bearings replaced and things should be good to go huh. Sure hope i dont make the same mistake when replacing everything.

 

If you follow the instructions I just posted, you can't make that mistake. The test is absolutely fool-proof.

 

Wont it be a little bit more difficult to allign everything with the engine being horizontal instead of vertical?

I am going to run this by Steve when i talk to him today. You make a very very convincing argument on it still only being a stacking issue. Hopefully he will agree and i can get some parts and try and get this turd back together.

 

Not really, just be careful to not pull the stack apart after you get it right.
It is the oil film that causes the spacer to stick to the counterweight and and pull it apart.
Stack it, measure it and bolt it together.

 

Out of curiosity, is there a reason the spacer in in perfect shape even though the needle bearing got totally wasted. You woudl think that if the spacer was pinching the bearing, it would show some type of wear.

 

Hardness

 

well isnt the washer of the same hardness and its got a great amount of damage.

 

Mine got damaged for the few cranks that we did. I need to get my engine manual back to verify a few things, but I think your issue might have been that washer.

I lent it to someone to fix a freeze plug.

 

Steve is still not convinced that its a stack issue. He is pretty positive of it. He has a few good theories also.

Basically it comes down to me pulling the motor. Theory is is that there is something causing excessive force pushing the motor forward. Weather something happend during shipping such as someone dropping it and cracking a plate or *my favorite and hte one that my money is on* Is that when the motor wsa mated to the trans somethign happend with the input shaft and the pilot bearing causing it to not be mated properly. I can believe this cuz the trans and the motor slid together but still had a small gap that needed to be pulled together with the bolts. Either way, pulling the motor and checking out the e saft from the back side is what the plan is now. If this is the case, it could need to be opened up still and checked out for other damage.

Stay tuned... this show is always changing.

 

Keep that in mind.

 

the only thing keeping me from thinking its stacking is how the spacer looks so perfect. If it wsa pinching that bearing that wsa totally eaten, why is it not scared or nicked after driving it 20 miles and having it run and various RPMs for an hour. Especially if shadys had issues and it was never running?

 

What'ev. What I laid out for you is what happened.
What you want to do is between you an Kan.

 

Ony other option i have is pony up the money and buy all the parts and pieces for the front stack and see if it fixes the problem. If it does, get paid for the parts from steve. if it does not. Then be out that cash and pull the motor.

 

Is he gonna cover the cost to ship the motor back and forth to him?

 

have not even talked about it. Basically if its something that i did in the isntall that caused a problem then no. Hence thinking the piolot bearing/input shaft theory being the problem. He is convinced its not a stacking issue still cuz of the condition of the spacer is sill perfect.

He has talked to other builders and thats who suggested the pilot bearing/ input shaft problem. So now he is thinking that route or the dropped durring shipping.

Anyone seen a stacking issue where the spacer had NO wear on it at all?

 

That makes no sense. if it was a n input shaft issue your rotors would be making the same wobbling motion at 9k rpm with a 8 lb rotors hitting soft aluminum your housings would have exploded and you'd die in a fireball.

Unless I'm wrong.

 

now i dont know a damn thing here but wouldnt the input shaft just push the e shaft forwad. couldnt the rotors stay in the correct position?

 

There is no way that you pushed the E shaft forward when installing the transmission.....the thrust bearings get a lot more load from normal use than you are going to get by pushing in the imput shaft....unless you used a hydraulic press or something

I wouldn't want to risk just fitting the front stat gear and stack back on if it was my engine..I would want it pulled..cleaned and spec'd and then re-installed....

 

Im with Dan simply because you had it rebuilt by someone else. so if it was anything else he could just say it was your fault and not take any responsibility. If it was my car and I rebuilt it myself, id get the new parts installed it and see if it still wobbled. If it did then Id pull the engine.

 

The spacer is likely the same hardness as the e-shaft...and the washer likely isn't...the bearings are hard on the outside..soft on the inside..so they tend to break and look like they did when they get crushed. There isn't any damage on the shaft either.....

 

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/my-engine-rebuild-195276/page16/

Have a look at this page... Looks all to familiar no?

 

You should really put the post # up....I obviously have my # per page default different......but page 8 area looks the same

Never any guarantees....every time is a new scenario.....but that bearing carrier looks identical