yeah i live about a half hour outside of des moines. i should be able to get somone out tonight though. we shall soon see.

 

Yea have a fire extinguisher. LOL We almost burned up a 65 Thunderbird with carb spray and a comb shoved into the carb back in the day (caught fire). I still think you have contaminated (water) fuel.

 

The car runs but it wont start or hold idle. I doubt its fuel. I've seen cars run off of 1 year old fuel with out any preservatives in it.

 

fuel is a possibility though. i mean its ayear and two month old fuel that i drained down to prolly an 1/8th tank... then put 91 in untill it had just over a half tank. so could it be fuel ?

 

It could be, but if it was you'd be sputtering down the road backfiring constantly not getting full combustion.

But anything is possible int he rotary world. We should start a pool on the causes so at least someone can profit from this headache.

 

I would like to profit from this headache by having a car running lol

my money would be on.... messed up injectors/bad gas or something in the wrong position vacuum related but not a leak itself.. something reversed.

 

Speaking of sputtering down the road. It seems like something is holding the car back once it does get running. Its like you have the push the gas pedal down farther then normal to get the car to accelerate. its as if something is holding it back. Especially once you start getting in the 4k range and may be a bit higher. (not htat i have gone hardly any higher in the rpms)

 

If you dont get it in a month Id say pull the thing and try again.

 

Well pull started the car. took it out on the higway. I was told to try to add fuel and remove fuel with the MIX_TRIM function to see if i can get it to idle. Well i tried both ways, still not real effect on idle. It sits at idle for a second then drops down and dies. no matter what i did with the MIX_TRIM function.

I also tried the starter fluid trick. I sprayed all aroudn the upper intake and down underneith it .... still no luck on change in noise or how the car ran.

i am pretty sure its not a tuning issue because the car ran perfectly on the same map before the rebuild. why would it not even start or idle on this build. Also, by adding or removing fuel nothing effected how it stumbled at idle and died.

 

PICTURES!!! Please.

 

lol maybe later on tonight. i have somethigns i need to get done tonight. but i will post some up when i get a chance.

 

if you car feels laggy at speed and also not wanting to hold idle. You might want to check your leading coils and also make sure all 4 coils are firing. I have a feeling your leading coils are not firing

 

I checked the coils last night before i went out and tried this stuff last night. i pulled the plug wires from the coils and checked it right after the coils. i had a yellow spark jumpting from the LS2 coils to the plug wires. However, in my mind for some reason it seemed a little weak. I can check it at the spark plug tonight and make sure there is not an issue with the plug wires. A day or so ago i also hooked up the stock coils that i have laying around. There was still the same problem.

I am thinking that its not a tuning issue though... more of a hard hookup issue. I was thinking of doing a compression test on it jsut to make sure everything is good to go. but i dont have arotary tester and i am kinda afraid to, knowing what happened last time i did a test.

 

stupid question since we are talking coils, could it be that the dwell settings for hte LS coils have not been changed? Maybe have some part in all this?

 

Dwell doesn't matter at idle like that.

I mean you can up them to 5ms just to see....but I don't think it will make a difference.

Can you take a picture of your plugs for us?

 

sure i can pull the plugs and take some pics. Last time i pulled them when all this was going on, they were way black.

 

Like all over black, so you can't even see bare metal where the spark is occurring?

 

You need to start to remove a few variables from your problem

Throw in new plugs for sure.... If they are black and fouled you won't get a good spark even if the coils are perfect

Make sure you have everything hooked up properly..check all the wiring connectors and vac lines..I know you have done this...but be systematic about it...check both ends...ECU as well as engine

You should have no CEL's for anything at a reset...if you have instant CEL's you have a problem...1st drive cycle CEL's are a problem

You MAF setup should be the only variable left after you are done...and it shouldn't effect the INTx tuning.....You need to re-calibrate your throttle though....you need to have proper throttle response. If the car doesn't know where the throttle is it won't run

Good luck and let us know how it goes

 

yup, like all over black. i will take them out and check them tonight and snap photos... see if they are the same. but when i installed they were brand new plugs so whatever the plugs show, its from since the rebuild and not pre rebuild

 

The first time i pop started and drove the car i got no CELs. the second time i got the code for the car being overly rich. Which yes, would have to do with whatever the issue is i am sure. I never had that cell till after the rebuild.

The throttle is still a little funky. when i sit in the car with jsut the key turned, it does not show throttle movement untill about half throttle. Once the car is pop started and running, it shows throttle responce as it should. A slite increse in pedal pressure shows a slight increase in the TPS %

 

this and borked (which I used earlier) mean the same thing. you've got way too much fuel and it doesnt change at all when looking at your runs because its so much its higher than the sensor can read. then you just said that changing fuel delivery in the map does nothing to correct it.

your flooding out. i suspect you have a bad injector or two. lets see the plugs

 

Will pull the plugs tonight and take pics. I will also check for spark at the plugs jsut to make sure. I will also tear the intake off and take pictures of all lines and hookups. Since i am there, i will remove the injectors and see if i can see anything as far as cleaning them goes. (however not much i can do to clean the inside of the injector isthere?) Then it will all go back together and see what we have.

I may talk to steve and tell him the remote tuning is a no go for tonight untill i get all this done. Dont know what he can do with the tune if its an acutal componet or install issue.

 

I was told that the Air fuel was reading 10.3 on the int-x becasue i do not have the add on A/F componet for hte INT-x. It will always read 10.3 no matter what unless you get the optional air fuel part. The aftermarket air fuel gauge inside the car does change and fluxuate. It has read every where from the 10's to 16 on decel.

 

No one has really be talking about the throttle, whether the physical throttle body, the electronic mapping, or the position sensor. If any one of these isn't working correctly, then it might be getting a completely closed throttle when you are off the pedal and it should be idling (whether because the position sensor is sending a wrong value, the electronic mapping is off, or the physical air opening isn't operating at the range it should be). Could also easily cause the issues you had a hint of at 4k rpm, if it isn't opening far enough.

Could be flooding out / too much fuel from thinking the throttle is open farther than it actually is.

 

Come to think of it, i can hook up the scanalyser i have now also and see what the acutal car is seeing for Air fuel instead of the microtech and the aftermarket gauge.