no check valve in the vacuume line to the oil injectors

 

I am thinking it looks more like the carbon tracing pic of the plugs

 

It's not worth pissing with plugs...just pop in a new set....if it does nothing it was cheap insurance..and you can re-use those after you have ruled them out and fixed whatever is wrong

I don't want to harp at you...but get a piece of paper and write down everything you have confirmed to be correct..and go through everything till you have it running

If it was me...i would even go back to the stock intake tube and MAF...and the stock ECU and injectors...that would rule out your stuff and at least give you a place to start. It should idle like that even if there is a problem with something else. If you don't understand the MAP tuning and the INTx setup..you have a few too many variables there to fix yourself

 

Comment from the Peanut Gallery...meaning me.

^.......Jeez I'm glad someone finally suggested that!

I know it sounds like a huge step backwards, but it might be time to just get the freakin motor running for a few days or a week and THEN proceed to start putting everything else back on a step at a time.

 

That is a huge huge project...

start by cleaning and using dielectric grease on the grounds. go back to your functional tune on the INt-x

I know the grounds thing may seem stupid but these engines will not run with rusted dirty grounds.

 

dotn have the stock Maf or injectors to go back to fellas so thats ruled out. it would run before hand on the stock ecu. i could try that again but i have tried that since the rebuild also

 

You need to start somewhere and systematically check things...

Otherwise you could keep pissing around forever

 

i pulled the plug boots off of the spark plugs, stuck a spare plug in the wire and had someone crnk it over. the spark looks really really weak on the plug. any idea what could be the cause of this?

 

coil or wire

 

could it be the grounds on the car as suggested before? the coils are a brand new set of yukon coils, and the wires are a newer set. The genaric set of accell 8mm wires you can pick up from the parts store but a new set none the less. same type have worked for many miles before. also, it seems week on ALL plugs

 

were do you have the ground setup for the coil packs?

 

to the cross brace right under where the stock airbox would be, however its rounded ont eh same bolt at two other grounds. i am guessing thats to many grounds trying to use one point. i will try spreading them out tomorrow and checking all of the grounds to make sure they are good.

 

I would run them all into one ground on the engine. I used the top ground near the oil filter. I have about 1/4" x 1/4" bolt of spark from my coils.

 

my coils are located down on the crossbar as well, running a lince all the way to the back of the motor would not be ne most efficient route. I will seperate the wires on the crossbar and find a spot on the motor to ground the coils to though. who knwos maybe that spot will work out best for me to .

 

Oh that's right well you can use that main ground. next to the coolant drain.

 

yeah i might try there, as i said, the spark seemed pretty weak. i think this could be the issue. Just not goin back out tonight. sun has finally gone down and now the heat index has dropped to 105.... Wouldnt believe the amount of sweat a little guy can loose haha.

 

Holy mother!!!

It hasn't gone past 75 here all month.

dang.

Yea make sure to get a scotch brite pad to that main ground connection and get all the rust off then coat it with some dielectric grease.

If that doesnt increase the spark pick up a set of wires from BHR with the correct fittings on them.

 

Long story short, when leaving for work today i was walking by the car and desided to swap the groudn for hte coils real quick. I moved it off the crossbar under where the stock airbox woudl be and actually placed it to a small bolt that holds the ALT casing together. Granted this is not the best spot but it was a quick spot i could find that i did not have to extend any wires for. Tried starting the car and it gave me the same outcome. Cranks but no start. I will have to redo all my grounds tonight and relocate this one again and see if that helps.

Another thought, the coil packs were grounded to the crossbar, well one of the grounds that was on the same bolt as it was the larger cable that is a ground that runs from this crossbar, down to the one that bolts up on the bottom of hte motor. Thats all the cable does, so in theory, wouldnt the coils have been getting a good ground?

So, where are all of the grounds located on the car so i can get them all cleaned up?

 

There is the ground for the harness under the UIM which is what I wanted you to do when you had that all apart but whatevers.

The main ground next to the coolant drain.

Ground on the side of the LIM.

Grounds under the intake.

Did you change anything from your previous setup to now?

anything at all, it could be the smallest of things. Ignition components, oil grade, anything that came with the rebuild, Anything extra that came with the rebuild?

Also have you been able to see if the E-shaft pulley is wobbling?

 

The E shaft pully does have a slight wobble to it. I actually removed the pully and sprocket and cleaned it and re installed it. The wobble is still there, but i slowly turned it by hand and you cant even tell it when moving slow. And its always on the sensor, never moves away from the center section.

Nothing has changes since the rebuild. Thas why i am wondering about grounds. I really dont know why i would have a weak spark other then that. Unless the full set of coils is bad, but it ran off thees coils and wires before the rebuild also...

 

There is your issue my friend. Do not drive that car at all.

Your bearing slipped behind the front cover it. I did this to on my rebuild as well. there should be absolutely no wobble to the pulley at all. The E-shaft sensor is not reading the "timing" plate correctly, so its not starting becuase its essentially sending spark at the wrong time everything is fubar to the PCM.


https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/my-engine-rebuild-195276/page18/

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/my-engine-rebuild-195276/page16/

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/my-engine-rebuild-195276/page17/

You can do this yourself if you really want. But I would send it back to the builder.

That sucks man... But at least you know whats going on now.

P.S. that also explains your weak spark.

 

I will upload a video of it tonight. if its a build issue yeah not going to be happy

 

It should be spinning as straight as your wheels 0 wobble. At this point since the bearings are chewed up it may not be wobbling since it has nothing to make it wobble.

Do not start it turn it over for a few seconds on the vid. I'd hate for more damage to take place.

Sorry man...

Wish you lived closer Id be able to help more.

 

 

That's definitely off balance. I would send the video to your builder.