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My engine rebuild.

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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 03:55 AM
  #426  
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crossthreaded an oil pan bolt oh well. I'm pretty happy with the silicone seal. i highly doubt I will get any leaks.
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 05:32 AM
  #427  
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Oh yea i found my Trans leak. its coming from the nut/bolt with attached wire on the right side of the transmission (exhaust side).

Anyone know what the sensor is and where it goes to? its not in the FSM only thing close is the neutral switch but that is on the opposite side of the engine and is much higher than the nut im asking about.
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 02:15 AM
  #428  
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Originally Posted by shadycrew31
Oh yea i found my Trans leak. its coming from the nut/bolt with attached wire on the right side of the transmission (exhaust side).

Anyone know what the sensor is and where it goes to? its not in the FSM only thing close is the neutral switch but that is on the opposite side of the engine and is much higher than the nut im asking about.
Join the leaking reverse switch club - I'm on my 3rd already ....
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 12:02 PM
  #429  
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Originally Posted by Brettus
Join the leaking reverse switch club - I'm on my 3rd already ....
Awesome Can I withdraw my membership?

Have you tried cleaning it and putting a coating of RTV around it? I think I'm going to give that a shot.

This leak is bad, an ounce a month at least and my whole car and garage smell of trans fluid. I Fukcing hate the smell of trans fluid.
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 06:04 PM
  #430  
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eww trans fluid smells like a rotting skunk carcas
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 06:12 PM
  #431  
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Originally Posted by shadycrew31
Awesome Can I withdraw my membership?

Have you tried cleaning it and putting a coating of RTV around it? I think I'm going to give that a shot.
.
Tried that - did not work for me .
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 06:32 PM
  #432  
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so what causes it. Leaky crush washer? It appears to be a 27mm is that correct?
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 06:35 PM
  #433  
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The plastic that plugs up all the wiring just melts . Apparently it is quite common with other cars as well .
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 06:40 PM
  #434  
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Originally Posted by Brettus
The plastic that plugs up all the wiring just melts . Apparently it is quite common with other cars as well .
Does it still make the connection after it melts?

Id prefer to just plug it with a bolt and a crush washer and solder in a switch to the wires.

Technically I should be able to flip the switch when going into reverse and bada bing problem solved.
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 06:44 PM
  #435  
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/\ great idea . Would it pass your vehicle inspection laws?
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 07:07 PM
  #436  
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All they check for is smog around here. Every state is different though.
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 12:11 AM
  #437  
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Are you trying to say the reverse switch does nothing now? Or thats how much the part costs to replace.. Im confused!?!
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 12:26 AM
  #438  
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If you require a new Reverse Switch, the new genuine Mazda replacement one is NOT the same switch used for the Neutral Switch, so in other words you still require 2 switches.
Where previously there was separate part and part numbers for the...( There still is separated Parts and Part Numbers)

Reverse Switch Y611-17-640A
Neutral Switch Y612-17-640B

Both Parts and Part Numbers supersede ( BUT are separate Parts, NOT THE SAME)
The revised Part Number and Updated switch is Part Number Y612-17-640B for Neutral Switch.
So if you need to the Reverse Switch the number and part is Y611-17-640A.

As of now Dec ,2012 All the information in my post #466 is 100% correct.
Sorry, but MNAO information to it's Part Dealer network in USA was wrong.

Last edited by ASH8; Jun 22, 2010 at 12:36 AM.
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 02:10 AM
  #439  
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this 'neutral' switch . Where on the g/box is that ? I can't recall ever seeing more than 1 switch on the g/box ....
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 02:47 AM
  #440  
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Its on the same side as the drain fill plugs are, opposite of the reverse switch.
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 02:48 AM
  #441  
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That ***** actually in the fsm the reverse one is not. That's why i had trouble finding out what it is.
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 03:48 AM
  #442  
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Yep, Right at the Top of Trans, many mechanics sometimes forget to reconnect the "neutral" switch when replacing clutch or trans.

Cruise Control will not work.

Can be accessed by removing the console for connection (if forgotten), not sure if switch can be replaced from there?

Attached Thumbnails My engine rebuild.-1.jpg  
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 04:02 AM
  #443  
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You can reach all the connections from under the car without removing anything.
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 07:27 PM
  #444  
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are we there yet?
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 07:30 PM
  #445  
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I'm waiting for my friend to get back into town. He will be here sat or sunday. Should start up fine after that. I'll keep you all updated.
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 01:56 PM
  #446  
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Originally Posted by Jedi54
are we there yet?
that's what HE said.

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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 07:24 PM
  #447  
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ITS ALIVEEEE!!!! with 4 codes from the ecu lol. woooo back to zeeee drawing board.
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 07:26 PM
  #448  
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at least it turns on my fc is dead lol
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 07:49 PM
  #449  
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After 3 tries it starts can someone say bad rebuild? in any event my power steering has failed as well. I'm cleaning the connections as we speak.

The good: It idles on its own, nothing is leaking, it sounds beautiful past 2k.

The Bad: I have a misfire, a possible stuck ssv, and I think my homemade BHR replifail has failed lol.
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 08:17 PM
  #450  
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Ok cleaned all the connections for the rack still doesnt work. Any other tips?
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