VFAD nipple.

 

k sounds good. I can already predict mine will fluctuate between 13 and 15"

 

after I cleaned the maf i was reading a stable 15"

 

15 on a fresh engine at idle? what altitude are you?
if that 15 was at sea level --then that is not good. Sorry to say.
I T both those nipples to my gauge.
test the engine at 2K with no load on it (a/c, stero etc), hold it at 2K and see what it is.
May have a leak somewhere?
I live in ga and not in the mountains---at steady state warm idle I am at 19.
OD

 

Well.. now I'm just confused.

 

We built the engine in both your car and Nemesis' car but both are quite different in that yours utilizes excellent used rotor housings and factory apex seals with stock ports and his has brand new housings with Iannetti ceramic apex seals (The only ceramics that will work on renesis rotors that aren't cut and the choice of champions) and portwork. The increased port timing can affect idle vaccuum for sure although properly built they should start easily from the word go. I know you are referring to Shadycrew but Nemesis vaccuum is also 15".

Paul.

 

The only thing I can think is my omp injector lines weren't super snug. Other that that every vacuum line was triple checked and were fine.

I did reuse my housings which had minimal chrome flake we don't need to go into that but that may be the issue. however that chrome flake was not on the compression cycle so I'm not sure that would do it.

I am using OEM apex seals that have been cryo treated and I'm on a street port. Other than the 4 items I'm not sure why my vacuum pressure could be low.

I only have 260 miles on I'll recheck at 500.

 

Thanks Paul--- i didnt realize that Shady's engine was ported. Now that it was mentioned I remember some posts back it was discussed. I knew ceramics would affect idle vacuum but that is not the case here.
Shady, with a port job--you may be ok? Still do the 2K test and see if the vac readings increase. It is good to establish a baseline if nothing else.
On a oem fresh engine anything below 16 (sea level) is cause for concern.
Didnt mean to cause a heart attack!
OD

 

Its ok I'm 25 no heart attacks yet!

Ill do the 2k test and report back shady over and out.

 

yep it shot up to 20" and stayed there.

 

at 2k that is.

Idle is still garbage though. It smoothed out after I cleaned the MAF. Then after a while it got rough again. Maybe the MAF is starting to go bad on me?

Any thoughts?

 

20 is good! You are sealing ok and shouldnt have any real leaks.
How many drive cycles have you done?
Do you have anyway of checking fuel trims?
If it is your ports doing this maybe your idle speed can be increased to conpensate? A cobb unit can do that, cant it?
OD

 

Yea a cobb can hand that. I'm going with the RB flash I do believe they increase the idle as part of their flash.

Oh how I miss the 300zx you could just turn a dial with a flat head and boom your idle went up or down...

I'm assuming you mean the drive cycles I pull off the ECU. I dont have my diagnostic hookup Ill get it together though.

 

I am currently at 370 miles city/hwy/stop and go. As predicted by brettus starting is getting better. I had my first normal turn over yesterday it felt great.

I think the idle point needs to be turned up there's nothing more I can do on that.

Other than that no leaks yet

I do have a Mil pop up for my SSV. when I inspected it I see the rod is a little loose not sure what that's about. I'm getting ready for my first oil change and starting my way up to 9k. I have no idea how someone could last through 1,000 miles of under 4k. its just so tempting.

 

Dood, "Over and out" is just wrong... It's Shady out. get it right...

 

after 5 pages of reading and thats the only thing you can come up with...

 

hey man i was there when u started the bitch up and i was the one that said "SHEEE ALLLIVEEEE" and all your crazy neighbors and hobos looked at me weird. so yes thats all i can think up. so Darkcrash out! Going to get my rollbar now

 

*** hat. I'll be down tomorrow to help you install.. Are you going to tell everyone what you used to stop the rattling in your car from your roll cage??

 

No but I will say that u need to learn how to drive stick caz u drive like a noob!

 

I'm getting better!

 

Booth driver n engine r learning how to drive smooth lol

 

LOL. Next up compression check. then dyno then headers tune and waterpump.

 

what are you tuning with? please tell me you're not going back to an e-manage.

 

emangle is fine for an NA tune .....

 

that implies that the tuner is familiar with how to use the E-manage.
A certain somebody here who will remain nameless tried to tune his N/A with the e-manage and dyno'd lower then with the OEM maps.

I'm not saying who it is but I'm just lookin' out for friends and hoping they don't make the same mistake twice.