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an RX8er's rebuild thread

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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 12:08 PM
  #126  
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afford....please clarify (for my wife )
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 01:08 PM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
afford....please clarify (for my wife )
, your on your own there. Just remind her that if you get rid of the 8 then you are going to want a Audi RS4 and the payments will be $600.00 a month.
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 01:18 PM
  #128  
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Marriage: Causing the reuse of irons since 1974.

Sidenote: We can use your old irons to practice porting on. The RB template is very conservative and there's some more that can be removed . I just need to find out how much more by abusing your bunk irons.
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 03:25 PM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
, your on your own there. Just remind her that if you get rid of the 8 then you are going to want a Audi RS4 and the payments will be $600.00 a month.
yea but I would get an RS5 so it would be even worse

Originally Posted by shadycrew31
Marriage: Causing the reuse of irons since 1974.

Sidenote: We can use your old irons to practice porting on. The RB template is very conservative and there's some more that can be removed . I just need to find out how much more by abusing your bunk irons.
good idea...although I do want to make a fish tank for my desk, I kind of have a rotor themed office
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 03:47 PM
  #130  
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Are you going to get the rotating assembly balanced? I really wonder how important that is and what role how tight the belts are plays.
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 03:49 PM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
yea but I would get an RS5 so it would be even worse



good idea...although I do want to make a fish tank for my desk, I kind of have a rotor themed office
No worries you can still "permanently flood your engine" it will just have larger intake and exhaust ports!
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 03:50 PM
  #132  
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I read about that yesterday and was considering. I am working on getting some precision v-blocks and 4" micrometers so I can measure it properly (calipers is not the right way....lol)
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 03:51 PM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by shadycrew31
No worries you can still "permanently flood your engine" it will just have larger intake and exhaust ports!
oh...now thats creative
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 04:17 PM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Are you going to get the rotating assembly balanced? I really wonder how important that is and what role how tight the belts are plays.
Its not needed! Unless you change out something in the rotating assembly (e shaft, rotors, flywheel with no counterweight, etc). Or unless you are planning on keeping it pegged at 9k for the life of the engine.

Even still I think the rennie comes with pre-balanced parts so you just need to get matching rotors and you should be fine. not 100% sure on that though.

Last edited by shadycrew31; Apr 11, 2012 at 04:20 PM.
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 04:18 PM
  #135  
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Is his Eshaft good?
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 04:26 PM
  #136  
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From what we could tell there was no uneven wear. We need to get a dial indicator and fab up a mount to perform the proper tests. the bearing wear did not appear to effect the shaft.

Also let me remind you that someone on these boards pieced together a motor without balancing and it ran fine for 50k.
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 04:55 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by shadycrew31
Its not needed! Unless you change out something in the rotating assembly (e shaft, rotors, flywheel with no counterweight, etc). Or unless you are planning on keeping it pegged at 9k for the life of the engine.

Even still I think the rennie comes with pre-balanced parts so you just need to get matching rotors and you should be fine. not 100% sure on that though.
WOW.....the stock assembly from the factory are poorly balanced from what I have seen.....I wouldn't recommend that anyone builds a motor other than a "throwaway, strictly gotta get a running engine for cheap type rebuilt" without balancing it
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 04:55 PM
  #138  
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Austin I think you should just say **** it and go 20B NA. Just tell your wife there were no rebuild parts left for the Renesis.
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 05:10 PM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by dannobre
WOW.....the stock assembly from the factory are poorly balanced from what I have seen.....I wouldn't recommend that anyone builds a motor other than a "throwaway, strictly gotta get a running engine for cheap type rebuilt" without balancing it
Interesting because when I spoke with mazdatrix they said its not needed, especially on the Renesis unless you are planning on racing only. I don't particularly like mazdatrix, but they seem to know what they are talking about.
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 06:29 PM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by shadycrew31
From what we could tell there was no uneven wear. We need to get a dial indicator and fab up a mount to perform the proper tests. the bearing wear did not appear to effect the shaft.

Also let me remind you that someone on these boards pieced together a motor without balancing and it ran fine for 50k.
I think the e-shaft is good but I will set it up in the proper measuring device this weekend.

Originally Posted by dannobre
WOW.....the stock assembly from the factory are poorly balanced from what I have seen.....I wouldn't recommend that anyone builds a motor other than a "throwaway, strictly gotta get a running engine for cheap type rebuilt" without balancing it
oh thanks...another piece to the puzzle

Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Austin I think you should just say **** it and go 20B NA. Just tell your wife there were no rebuild parts left for the Renesis.
yea....looks like you want another roommate..... if I could do it for less then....cough... $10k its....hmmmm...cough...possible....(please dont let my wife be secretly reading the forum)
Originally Posted by shadycrew31
Interesting because when I spoke with mazdatrix they said its not needed, especially on the Renesis unless you are planning on racing only. I don't particularly like mazdatrix, but they seem to know what they are talking about.
more unconfirmed details.....I love this forum.....HA


guess I will do a little digging on balancing the assembly
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 06:49 PM
  #141  
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Originally Posted by shadycrew31
Interesting because when I spoke with mazdatrix they said its not needed, especially on the Renesis unless you are planning on racing only. I don't particularly like mazdatrix, but they seem to know what they are talking about.
The 2 that I have balanced were way out...and having discussions with a couple of engine builders that seem to think they are less well balanced than the older engines
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 06:51 PM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Are you going to get the rotating assembly balanced? I really wonder how important that is and what role how tight the belts are plays.
See below

Originally Posted by shadycrew31
From what we could tell there was no uneven wear. We need to get a dial indicator and fab up a mount to perform the proper tests. the bearing wear did not appear to effect the shaft.

Also let me remind you that someone on these boards pieced together a motor without balancing and it ran fine for 50k.
you guys start a rebuild WITHOUT A DIAL INDICATOR ????

DANG U ALL NOOOOOOOBS !

but seriously ... wtf ? lol

Originally Posted by dannobre
WOW.....the stock assembly from the factory are poorly balanced from what I have seen.....I wouldn't recommend that anyone builds a motor other than a "throwaway, strictly gotta get a running engine for cheap type rebuilt" without balancing it
yep, factory's rotating assembly is not so great, for Renesis if u stay at stuff above 8K for too long the rotor will touch something. if you're going to get it professionally balanced, might as well go all out and just get a set of RB's lighten rotor. it's cut by 0.2 lbs (LOL) but most important is it's already balanced by RB

oh man, this thing is getting expensive.
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 06:56 PM
  #143  
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I have the dial indicator and adjustable stand, I just dont have a v-block (or havnet fabbed anything yet) or large micrometers

if it makes you feel better I havent ordered my quality torque wrenches (have to upgrage my harbor freight special)
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 07:12 PM
  #144  
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Cool more clarity

RB doesn’t recommend balancing but Atkins does (for $350)
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 07:22 PM
  #145  
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There is no clarity... Its a rotary hahaha. Everyone has an idea of how things should be done, including myself.

Time to trail blaze sir.

As for the dial indicator, I borrowed one from a shop when I did mine since you don't need it till the build is complete.
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 07:32 PM
  #146  
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I need more hours in the day but def one to look into.....going to force a day this weekend dedicated to figuring out WTH I am going to commit to and move forward.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 12:24 AM
  #147  
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Pineapple told me balancing is a must and IIRC he uses another shop for that. I believe BDC has the tools to do this right? Let's roll up there. I'll text Tito and see what his expert opinion is (besides, "your loco man, put a 20B in it")
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 07:16 AM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Pineapple told me balancing is a must and IIRC he uses another shop for that. I believe BDC has the tools to do this right? Let's roll up there. I'll text Tito and see what his expert opinion is (besides, "your loco man, put a 20B in it")
sweet....where is BDC? theres that 20b creeping back in again.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 08:56 AM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
sweet....where is BDC? theres that 20b creeping back in again.
He is in Midolothian near Dallas.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 09:50 AM
  #150  
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sweet, looks like $235 but he mentions only reccomended with counterweight changes.
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