an RX8er's rebuild thread
04-02-2012, 10:05 PM
#1
an RX8er's rebuild thread
Well I took the leap and with SARX (that is both San Antonio and South Austin RX)
removal and teardown went fairly smooth but it looks like a significant event took place with the rear chamber (photos below)....soliciting feedback
I am certainly going to go with new housings due to cracks but there was no visival chrome flaking and very minimal pitting on only 1 of the housing.
This is a N/A build btw (next build will have boost with it)
its out
nice throwout bearing
rotors (it looks like the zinc coating is only bad on 1 side of 1 rotor)
slight wear on the edge of the rotor bearing
rear stationary gear with significant wear
rear housing
intermediate housing rear face
intermediate housing front face
misc housing pitting
housing
uhh ho
plug pitting
not sure if this wear is normal but its on both of the rear rotor housings, it measured out to about .005 (notice the significant scratch)
front housing
front cover (notice spider cracks)
e-shaft, looks pretty decent (pilot bearing did come out in pieces and there is a small discoloration in the bottom of the bearing hole but no maring or anything like that
stationary gear wear
Well this is certainly an adventure for a novice engine guy but where there is a will (and RX forum)
there is a way
removal and teardown went fairly smooth but it looks like a significant event took place with the rear chamber (photos below)....soliciting feedback
I am certainly going to go with new housings due to cracks but there was no visival chrome flaking and very minimal pitting on only 1 of the housing.
This is a N/A build btw (next build will have boost with it)
its out
nice throwout bearing
rotors (it looks like the zinc coating is only bad on 1 side of 1 rotor)
slight wear on the edge of the rotor bearing
rear stationary gear with significant wear
rear housing
intermediate housing rear face
intermediate housing front face
misc housing pitting
housing
uhh ho
plug pitting
not sure if this wear is normal but its on both of the rear rotor housings, it measured out to about .005 (notice the significant scratch)
front housing
front cover (notice spider cracks)
e-shaft, looks pretty decent (pilot bearing did come out in pieces and there is a small discoloration in the bottom of the bearing hole but no maring or anything like that
stationary gear wear
Well this is certainly an adventure for a novice engine guy but where there is a will (and RX forum)
there is a way
04-03-2012, 12:37 AM
#3
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Considering this was a reman with 40k on it, it is hard to know how the parts were when they put it back together. We do know when they put the remans together you get new bearings and since you changed the oil like clockwork using Castrol GTX 5W-20, we can probably say that the oil just didn't hold up all that well in this heat since there was significant wear on the bearings.
We also know you did not baby this engine either. I thought I noticed some Idemitsu on the shelf in your garage, you also premixed a bit right? The carbon build up on the rotors wasn't too bad. Also, that sludge in the coolant passage could have been due to oil leak through from that coolant seal as well. If coolant was leaking into the oil that would definitely affect the oil in a bad way.
We also know you did not baby this engine either. I thought I noticed some Idemitsu on the shelf in your garage, you also premixed a bit right? The carbon build up on the rotors wasn't too bad. Also, that sludge in the coolant passage could have been due to oil leak through from that coolant seal as well. If coolant was leaking into the oil that would definitely affect the oil in a bad way.
04-03-2012, 02:00 AM
#4
Bit of an expensive build... but that's the right way to do it. Then change the water pump, oil pressure regulator and you're good to go.
I'd actually just call Paul @ Mazmart and buy an engine from them, it's probably going to be cheaper, more reliable and better built overall
04-03-2012, 11:13 AM
#5
Without measurements it's hard to say but i would at least relap the side plates, replace the front cover, housings and stationary gears. New bearings, seals etc.
Bit of an expensive build... but that's the right way to do it. Then change the water pump, oil pressure regulator and you're good to go.
I'd actually just call Paul @ Mazmart and buy an engine from them, it's probably going to be cheaper, more reliable and better built overall
Bit of an expensive build... but that's the right way to do it. Then change the water pump, oil pressure regulator and you're good to go.
I'd actually just call Paul @ Mazmart and buy an engine from them, it's probably going to be cheaper, more reliable and better built overall
Well Shady had a hard but that was because he has homo tendencies 
04-03-2012, 12:00 PM
#14
but I will defend shady and attribute them to alcohol and sleep deprivation.He just better watch his hands next time.............I think his 8 saw him cheating with my 8 and threw a fit when he tried to leave.....had nothing to do with the neutral saftey switch
04-03-2012, 12:30 PM
#15
yea there were a few questionable moments but I will defend shady and attribute them to alcohol and sleep deprivation.
He just better watch his hands next time.............I think his 8 saw him cheating with my 8 and threw a fit when he tried to leave.....had nothing to do with the neutral saftey switch
but I will defend shady and attribute them to alcohol and sleep deprivation.He just better watch his hands next time.............I think his 8 saw him cheating with my 8 and threw a fit when he tried to leave.....had nothing to do with the neutral saftey switch
04-03-2012, 04:21 PM
#22
You can either get fd corner\side seal springs or there's a manufacturer in the UK that also makes better ones, according to PhillipM.
