an RX8er's rebuild thread
04-09-2012, 06:26 PM
#101
yea...I still havent had a good night sleep after being that close to "satisfaction"
I am going to check the irons for straight but I am sure more than .005 will need to be taken off (I have access to a mill and/or a table grinder). I am not sure if that is "too much".
eh......that damn pic
I am going to check the irons for straight but I am sure more than .005 will need to be taken off (I have access to a mill and/or a table grinder). I am not sure if that is "too much".
eh......that damn pic
04-09-2012, 06:28 PM
#102
i just hooked the spal fan us to a manual switch. use it when the oil temps( or temps overall) seem to be climbing and I am stuff in traffic. Helps to stay ahead of it.
It doesnt get in the way of air flow through the cooler---not THAT much air coming through anyway. I did open up the rear of the fender plastic at the same time.
It doesnt get in the way of air flow through the cooler---not THAT much air coming through anyway. I did open up the rear of the fender plastic at the same time.
I was thinking of doing that while they are off the car
04-09-2012, 09:31 PM
#103
yea...I still havent had a good night sleep after being that close to "satisfaction"
I am going to check the irons for straight but I am sure more than .005 will need to be taken off (I have access to a mill and/or a table grinder). I am not sure if that is "too much".
eh......that damn pic
I am going to check the irons for straight but I am sure more than .005 will need to be taken off (I have access to a mill and/or a table grinder). I am not sure if that is "too much".
eh......that damn pic
not to mention those "discoloration" means it has overheated somewhat. Don't think u want to use it anymore.
you might end up getting new iron or good used ones ... but at this point I think you should go with new , saves u a lot of time AND you get a set of plates for you to play with *cough*just like my FC*cough*
04-10-2012, 06:52 AM
#104
lap 0.05 ? that's way too much.
not to mention those "discoloration" means it has overheated somewhat. Don't think u want to use it anymore.
you might end up getting new iron or good used ones ... but at this point I think you should go with new , saves u a lot of time AND you get a set of plates for you to play with *cough*just like my FC*cough*
not to mention those "discoloration" means it has overheated somewhat. Don't think u want to use it anymore.
you might end up getting new iron or good used ones ... but at this point I think you should go with new , saves u a lot of time AND you get a set of plates for you to play with *cough*just like my FC*cough*
I will get with RR or one of the other recomended members for used before I commit to the $1k in side housings.
04-10-2012, 08:46 AM
#106
But im gonna vote for paul/mazmart!!!!
Seriously. Just give paul a call, again if u mention nycgps u get a 0.01% special discount!!!
RR is good too! He helped me out a a lot of times. Give him a call too and see what happens
Last edited by nycgps; 04-10-2012 at 08:49 AM.
04-10-2012, 09:10 AM
#108
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
I know Expo1's reman from Mazmart didn't last as long as he hoped especially since he wasn't tracking much anymore . His failed after a couple of years and IIRC, he told me that Mazmart said you cannot expect much past 50k on a reman. if you are NA I would hope to get at least 75k out of a well maintained reman. But then again Expo1 used Royal Purple and I have always been suspect of that oil.
04-10-2012, 12:53 PM
#110
Cuz
NYCGPS > OD
I know Expo1's reman from Mazmart didn't last as long as he hoped especially since he wasn't tracking much anymore . His failed after a couple of years and IIRC, he told me that Mazmart said you cannot expect much past 50k on a reman. if you are NA I would hope to get at least 75k out of a well maintained reman. But then again Expo1 used Royal Purple and I have always been suspect of that oil.
I thought expo engine failed due to coolant seal? I forgot
Its a fun project to do, especially with 13b-msp you can finally buy precut seals to save u some time. if you are going to grind ur own seals then... its such a pita job. but if u want better sealing then ...
04-10-2012, 01:10 PM
#111
Simple.
Cuz
NYCGPS > OD
It depends on how many parts were reused, driving habbits, etc.
I thought expo engine failed due to coolant seal? I forgot
Rob is a great guy.
Its a fun project to do, especially with 13b-msp you can finally buy precut seals to save u some time. if you are going to grind ur own seals then... its such a pita job. but if u want better sealing then ...
Cuz
NYCGPS > OD
It depends on how many parts were reused, driving habbits, etc.
I thought expo engine failed due to coolant seal? I forgot
Rob is a great guy.
Its a fun project to do, especially with 13b-msp you can finally buy precut seals to save u some time. if you are going to grind ur own seals then... its such a pita job. but if u want better sealing then ...
yea, planning on fitting the sideseals...seems worth the investment and I am sure Shady will help (Shady this is where you chime in and say how excited you are to sit and grind side seals).
04-10-2012, 06:53 PM
#116
so if used side housings are "sourced" and within tolerances... how does the re-nitrite play in
do I still need to get anything re-coated? no right, if I have new housings and basically new side plates
Shady just fyi....I went back and watched the pineapple vid on rotor cleaning......doesnt look like a brass brush on that grinder.....hummm
do I still need to get anything re-coated? no right, if I have new housings and basically new side plates
Shady just fyi....I went back and watched the pineapple vid on rotor cleaning......doesnt look like a brass brush on that grinder.....hummm
04-10-2012, 07:15 PM
#117
so if used side housings are "sourced" and within tolerances... how does the re-nitrite play in
do I still need to get anything re-coated? no right, if I have new housings and basically new side plates
Shady just fyi....I went back and watched the pineapple vid on rotor cleaning......doesnt look like a brass brush on that grinder.....hummm
do I still need to get anything re-coated? no right, if I have new housings and basically new side plates
Shady just fyi....I went back and watched the pineapple vid on rotor cleaning......doesnt look like a brass brush on that grinder.....hummm
From what RR told me using anything harder than Brass will **** up the rotor
.
04-11-2012, 09:35 AM
#121
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
You know, I wonder how many rebuilders just say "**** it" and reuse stuff that should not be reused rather than trying to convince the customer that new stuff is needed. If it were me (and it will be sooner or later) I would just get new stuff.
04-11-2012, 10:01 AM
#122
from what I understand it is actually better to reuse the rotor bearings with the same e shaft if the parts are in good shape. Thats what I have been told.
Now if it was up to me though and I plan on taking the engine to 9k rpms --i would install the racing bearings with the extra groove work for better high rpm lubrication.
Course I would also use Microblue stuff too--kinda like the mazda 3 sky active approach in which they reduced the internal engine friction by 30%. I start my microblue + engine build in either july or august.
Now if it was up to me though and I plan on taking the engine to 9k rpms --i would install the racing bearings with the extra groove work for better high rpm lubrication.
Course I would also use Microblue stuff too--kinda like the mazda 3 sky active approach in which they reduced the internal engine friction by 30%. I start my microblue + engine build in either july or august.
04-11-2012, 10:10 AM
#123
- think the rebuilder is lazy/lack of skills
- the rebuilder is trying to rip me off
- the old part looks shinny to me, its still good
- i thought a new engine cost only 1k?
then what will happen is they will just insist the rebuilder to use old parts, as long as the car runs with the least amount of money, then they will be happy. but at the end of the day when their car breaks down again, they will just find some reason/person to blame on, ljke the rebuilder or the car manufacture. i see ppl like that every day, they thought auto repairs aint worth ****. my fxking negihborback into my car when i was not in the country, my dad was dumb enough to say he will not go anywhere, didnt take any pictures, nothing. when i came back to talk to this asshat, at first he said he would only pay 100-150 bux to fix cuz thats how much it cost, i was about to just punch him in the face and walk off. after i told him i got a quote from geico saying it cost 620. he stopped talking to me, and of course i have to pay outa pocket to fix it myself.
Last edited by nycgps; 04-11-2012 at 10:17 AM.
04-11-2012, 11:36 AM
#124
from what I understand it is actually better to reuse the rotor bearings with the same e shaft if the parts are in good shape. Thats what I have been told.
Now if it was up to me though and I plan on taking the engine to 9k rpms --i would install the racing bearings with the extra groove work for better high rpm lubrication.
Course I would also use Microblue stuff too--kinda like the mazda 3 sky active approach in which they reduced the internal engine friction by 30%. I start my microblue + engine build in either july or august.
Now if it was up to me though and I plan on taking the engine to 9k rpms --i would install the racing bearings with the extra groove work for better high rpm lubrication.
Course I would also use Microblue stuff too--kinda like the mazda 3 sky active approach in which they reduced the internal engine friction by 30%. I start my microblue + engine build in either july or august.
most ppl are cheap, when a rebuilder is trying to tell them new parts would be better, usually the following will happen
- think the rebuilder is lazy/lack of skills
- the rebuilder is trying to rip me off
- the old part looks shinny to me, its still good
- i thought a new engine cost only 1k?
then what will happen is they will just insist the rebuilder to use old parts, as long as the car runs with the least amount of money, then they will be happy. but at the end of the day when their car breaks down again, they will just find some reason/person to blame on, ljke the rebuilder or the car manufacture. i see ppl like that every day, they thought auto repairs aint worth ****. my fxking negihborback into my car when i was not in the country, my dad was dumb enough to say he will not go anywhere, didnt take any pictures, nothing. when i came back to talk to this asshat, at first he said he would only pay 100-150 bux to fix cuz thats how much it cost, i was about to just punch him in the face and walk off. after i told him i got a quote from geico saying it cost 620. he stopped talking to me, and of course i have to pay outa pocket to fix it myself.
- think the rebuilder is lazy/lack of skills
- the rebuilder is trying to rip me off
- the old part looks shinny to me, its still good
- i thought a new engine cost only 1k?
then what will happen is they will just insist the rebuilder to use old parts, as long as the car runs with the least amount of money, then they will be happy. but at the end of the day when their car breaks down again, they will just find some reason/person to blame on, ljke the rebuilder or the car manufacture. i see ppl like that every day, they thought auto repairs aint worth ****. my fxking negihborback into my car when i was not in the country, my dad was dumb enough to say he will not go anywhere, didnt take any pictures, nothing. when i came back to talk to this asshat, at first he said he would only pay 100-150 bux to fix cuz thats how much it cost, i was about to just punch him in the face and walk off. after i told him i got a quote from geico saying it cost 620. he stopped talking to me, and of course i have to pay outa pocket to fix it myself.
thats what I am thinking and it also preps for the next build...since there will be oil and cooling upgrades the "odds" (and I say this loosly) are less likely of that type of failure thus I will have higher quality parts going into the next build....in therory anyway