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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 06:26 PM
  #101  
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yea...I still havent had a good night sleep after being that close to "satisfaction"

I am going to check the irons for straight but I am sure more than .005 will need to be taken off (I have access to a mill and/or a table grinder). I am not sure if that is "too much".

eh......that damn pic
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 06:28 PM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by olddragger
i just hooked the spal fan us to a manual switch. use it when the oil temps( or temps overall) seem to be climbing and I am stuff in traffic. Helps to stay ahead of it.
It doesnt get in the way of air flow through the cooler---not THAT much air coming through anyway. I did open up the rear of the fender plastic at the same time.
I assume you mean the diy where you remove some of the inner wheel well liner?

I was thinking of doing that while they are off the car
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 09:31 PM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
yea...I still havent had a good night sleep after being that close to "satisfaction"

I am going to check the irons for straight but I am sure more than .005 will need to be taken off (I have access to a mill and/or a table grinder). I am not sure if that is "too much".

eh......that damn pic
lap 0.05 ? that's way too much.

not to mention those "discoloration" means it has overheated somewhat. Don't think u want to use it anymore.

you might end up getting new iron or good used ones ... but at this point I think you should go with new , saves u a lot of time AND you get a set of plates for you to play with *cough*just like my FC*cough*
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 06:52 AM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by nycgps
lap 0.05 ? that's way too much.

not to mention those "discoloration" means it has overheated somewhat. Don't think u want to use it anymore.

you might end up getting new iron or good used ones ... but at this point I think you should go with new , saves u a lot of time AND you get a set of plates for you to play with *cough*just like my FC*cough*
I like your way of "cough" thinking

I will get with RR or one of the other recomended members for used before I commit to the $1k in side housings.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 08:34 AM
  #105  
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adding all this up--you may end up doing better just by buying one from Paul ( Mazmart) or Pettit Racing?
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 08:46 AM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by olddragger
adding all this up--you may end up doing better just by buying one from Paul ( Mazmart) or Pettit Racing?
I am sure pettit is good(cam?) and they know their stuff

But im gonna vote for paul/mazmart!!!!

Seriously. Just give paul a call, again if u mention nycgps u get a 0.01% special discount!!!

RR is good too! He helped me out a a lot of times. Give him a call too and see what happens

Last edited by nycgps; Apr 10, 2012 at 08:49 AM.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 08:50 AM
  #107  
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Cant go wrong with a Mazmart engine! I also can past on my OD $1 off referral discount---enjoy!
Hey nycaps--how come you have a bigger discount than I? I am going to have to speak with Paul about this!!
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 09:10 AM
  #108  
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I know Expo1's reman from Mazmart didn't last as long as he hoped especially since he wasn't tracking much anymore . His failed after a couple of years and IIRC, he told me that Mazmart said you cannot expect much past 50k on a reman. if you are NA I would hope to get at least 75k out of a well maintained reman. But then again Expo1 used Royal Purple and I have always been suspect of that oil.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 12:42 PM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by olddragger
adding all this up--you may end up doing better just by buying one from Paul ( Mazmart) or Pettit Racing?
but where is the fun is buying someone elses engine.

I do have to thank Rob at Pineapple, I talked with him quite extensivly and ultimately helped me come to the decision to do it myself
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 12:53 PM
  #110  
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Smile

Originally Posted by olddragger
Cant go wrong with a Mazmart engine! I also can past on my OD $1 off referral discount---enjoy!
Hey nycaps--how come you have a bigger discount than I? I am going to have to speak with Paul about this!!
Simple.

Cuz

NYCGPS > OD

Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
I know Expo1's reman from Mazmart didn't last as long as he hoped especially since he wasn't tracking much anymore . His failed after a couple of years and IIRC, he told me that Mazmart said you cannot expect much past 50k on a reman. if you are NA I would hope to get at least 75k out of a well maintained reman. But then again Expo1 used Royal Purple and I have always been suspect of that oil.
It depends on how many parts were reused, driving habbits, etc.

I thought expo engine failed due to coolant seal? I forgot

Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
but where is the fun is buying someone elses engine.

I do have to thank Rob at Pineapple, I talked with him quite extensivly and ultimately helped me come to the decision to do it myself
Rob is a great guy.

Its a fun project to do, especially with 13b-msp you can finally buy precut seals to save u some time. if you are going to grind ur own seals then... its such a pita job. but if u want better sealing then ...
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 01:10 PM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by nycgps
Simple.

Cuz

NYCGPS > OD



It depends on how many parts were reused, driving habbits, etc.

I thought expo engine failed due to coolant seal? I forgot



Rob is a great guy.

Its a fun project to do, especially with 13b-msp you can finally buy precut seals to save u some time. if you are going to grind ur own seals then... its such a pita job. but if u want better sealing then ...
I have really enjoyed it thus far...kind of wish I wasnt dealing with the side housing mess....but...it is what it is

yea, planning on fitting the sideseals...seems worth the investment and I am sure Shady will help (Shady this is where you chime in and say how excited you are to sit and grind side seals).
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 01:39 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by houstonrx8er

yea, planning on fitting the sideseals...seems worth the investment and I am sure Shady will help (Shady this is where you chime in and say how excited you are to sit and grind side seals).
LOL yea that ***** NBD... I'd rather grind/sand 100 side seals than clean 1 rotor by hand....

In any event, building your own engine is fun, and you can blame yourself if you **** it up. If you are patient and have a steady hand its easy breezy.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 01:51 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by shadycrew31
LOL yea that ***** NBD... I'd rather grind/sand 100 side seals than clean 1 rotor by hand....

In any event, building your own engine is fun, and you can blame yourself if you **** it up. If you are patient and have a steady hand its easy breezy.
IDK, rotors were tollerable.....thank goodness there are only 2
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 01:55 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
IDK, rotors were tollerable.....thank goodness there are only 2
OH sweet, when we do Hoss's I'll let you have at it LOL.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 06:32 PM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by shadycrew31
OH sweet, when we do Hoss's I'll let you have at it LOL.
if thats all then I am game
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 06:53 PM
  #116  
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so if used side housings are "sourced" and within tolerances... how does the re-nitrite play in

do I still need to get anything re-coated? no right, if I have new housings and basically new side plates

Shady just fyi....I went back and watched the pineapple vid on rotor cleaning......doesnt look like a brass brush on that grinder.....hummm
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 07:15 PM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
so if used side housings are "sourced" and within tolerances... how does the re-nitrite play in

do I still need to get anything re-coated? no right, if I have new housings and basically new side plates

Shady just fyi....I went back and watched the pineapple vid on rotor cleaning......doesnt look like a brass brush on that grinder.....hummm
If you have any uneven wear the housing will need to be sent off for lapping and nitride treatment. If it has too much wear you will need to replace it.

From what RR told me using anything harder than Brass will **** up the rotor .
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 07:18 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by shadycrew31
If you have any uneven wear the housing will need to be sent off for lapping and nitride treatment. If it has too much wear you will need to replace it.

From what RR told me using anything harder than Brass will **** up the rotor .
right, but if I am going to get replacement housings and assuming they are within tolerences I wouldnt need to re-nitrite anything.

I agree on the brass, I just thought it was funny seeing the vid
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 07:22 PM
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unless you are lowering the compression on the rotor hehe.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 07:38 PM
  #120  
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funny guy
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 09:35 AM
  #121  
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You know, I wonder how many rebuilders just say "**** it" and reuse stuff that should not be reused rather than trying to convince the customer that new stuff is needed. If it were me (and it will be sooner or later) I would just get new stuff.
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 10:01 AM
  #122  
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from what I understand it is actually better to reuse the rotor bearings with the same e shaft if the parts are in good shape. Thats what I have been told.
Now if it was up to me though and I plan on taking the engine to 9k rpms --i would install the racing bearings with the extra groove work for better high rpm lubrication.
Course I would also use Microblue stuff too--kinda like the mazda 3 sky active approach in which they reduced the internal engine friction by 30%. I start my microblue + engine build in either july or august.
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 10:10 AM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
You know, I wonder how many rebuilders just say "**** it" and reuse stuff that should not be reused rather than trying to convince the customer that new stuff is needed. If it were me (and it will be sooner or later) I would just get new stuff.
most ppl are cheap, when a rebuilder is trying to tell them new parts would be better, usually the following will happen

- think the rebuilder is lazy/lack of skills
- the rebuilder is trying to rip me off
- the old part looks shinny to me, its still good
- i thought a new engine cost only 1k?

then what will happen is they will just insist the rebuilder to use old parts, as long as the car runs with the least amount of money, then they will be happy. but at the end of the day when their car breaks down again, they will just find some reason/person to blame on, ljke the rebuilder or the car manufacture. i see ppl like that every day, they thought auto repairs aint worth ****. my fxking negihborback into my car when i was not in the country, my dad was dumb enough to say he will not go anywhere, didnt take any pictures, nothing. when i came back to talk to this asshat, at first he said he would only pay 100-150 bux to fix cuz thats how much it cost, i was about to just punch him in the face and walk off. after i told him i got a quote from geico saying it cost 620. he stopped talking to me, and of course i have to pay outa pocket to fix it myself.

Last edited by nycgps; Apr 11, 2012 at 10:17 AM.
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 11:36 AM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by olddragger
from what I understand it is actually better to reuse the rotor bearings with the same e shaft if the parts are in good shape. Thats what I have been told.
Now if it was up to me though and I plan on taking the engine to 9k rpms --i would install the racing bearings with the extra groove work for better high rpm lubrication.
Course I would also use Microblue stuff too--kinda like the mazda 3 sky active approach in which they reduced the internal engine friction by 30%. I start my microblue + engine build in either july or august.
I like the idea of that but I am not sure how it will play out with timing....but its not out of the question yet

Originally Posted by nycgps
most ppl are cheap, when a rebuilder is trying to tell them new parts would be better, usually the following will happen

- think the rebuilder is lazy/lack of skills
- the rebuilder is trying to rip me off
- the old part looks shinny to me, its still good
- i thought a new engine cost only 1k?

then what will happen is they will just insist the rebuilder to use old parts, as long as the car runs with the least amount of money, then they will be happy. but at the end of the day when their car breaks down again, they will just find some reason/person to blame on, ljke the rebuilder or the car manufacture. i see ppl like that every day, they thought auto repairs aint worth ****. my fxking negihborback into my car when i was not in the country, my dad was dumb enough to say he will not go anywhere, didnt take any pictures, nothing. when i came back to talk to this asshat, at first he said he would only pay 100-150 bux to fix cuz thats how much it cost, i was about to just punch him in the face and walk off. after i told him i got a quote from geico saying it cost 620. he stopped talking to me, and of course i have to pay outa pocket to fix it myself.
that sucks and $1k....WTF....more like $5k.....lmao

Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
You know, I wonder how many rebuilders just say "**** it" and reuse stuff that should not be reused rather than trying to convince the customer that new stuff is needed. If it were me (and it will be sooner or later) I would just get new stuff.
thats what I am thinking and it also preps for the next build...since there will be oil and cooling upgrades the "odds" (and I say this loosly) are less likely of that type of failure thus I will have higher quality parts going into the next build....in therory anyway
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 11:38 AM
  #125  
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Proper prior planning. I think your line of thinking is solid. I wouldn't **** with using questionable parts if you can really afford to get new stuff.
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