My engine rebuild.
Infantry!!!
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles, CA
Fixed the wobble yet ? Couldn't be that you just put the plate with the cogs on it around the wrong way? Sorry if that is a stupid suggestion but guys seem to do it all the time when they fit a new pulley .....
It can't be assembled the wrong way - the bolt holes won't align.
yes I know that . But still people manage to do it . I can`t imagine shady would but if the pulley is wobbling and he still has freeplay on the thrust bearing ????
Last edited by Brettus; Jun 11, 2010 at 06:12 PM.
How? It is physically impossible. You can't force it - the bolts simply won't go through.
And if you did somehow manage to align the holes correctly but misalign it over the boss pins, not only will it be canted about 7° but the bolts won't be long enough to make it to the threads.
Are you gonna make me make another video? lol
And if you did somehow manage to align the holes correctly but misalign it over the boss pins, not only will it be canted about 7° but the bolts won't be long enough to make it to the threads.
Are you gonna make me make another video? lol
http://www.hulu.com/watch/128386/archer-diversity-hire
Once the actual video starts (after all the stupid commercials), fast-forward to about 4 minutes into the episode.
Once the actual video starts (after all the stupid commercials), fast-forward to about 4 minutes into the episode.
How? It is physically impossible. You can't force it - the bolts simply won't go through.
And if you did somehow manage to align the holes correctly but misalign it over the boss pins, not only will it be canted about 7° but the bolts won't be long enough to make it to the threads.
Are you gonna make me make another video? lol
And if you did somehow manage to align the holes correctly but misalign it over the boss pins, not only will it be canted about 7° but the bolts won't be long enough to make it to the threads.
Are you gonna make me make another video? lol
Well I slept all day and missed a call from my new boss who asked me to call him back promptly... SOB! This this has me so lethargic, I need a beer to the tenth and blow job.
I'm going to shower and pull the main bolt.
Anyone have an extra e-shaft bolt I can purchase? mine got cross threaded... long story.
I'm going to shower and pull the main bolt.
Anyone have an extra e-shaft bolt I can purchase? mine got cross threaded... long story.
I zoom therefore I am.
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,919
Likes: 12
From: San Jose, CA
kevin@rotaryresurrection
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,415
Likes: 61
From: east of Knoxville, TN
Shady I have plenty of those bolts if you need.
Also...I do not think it is good advice to pull the bolt and measure the distance between the eshaft and hub/boss. Anytime you take tension off of that bolt, you risk that a thrust bearing could fall due to gravity...that stack of parts on the front of the shaft likes to slide quite easily, especially when there is oil on it all. And, with the engine pointing forward instead of upward, gravity can act immediately should the stack slide at all. So, the act of checking that distance can cause the very problem you are trying to prevent.
IF you had endplay when it was bolted down on the stand, and that bolt has not been loosened since, then you should still have end play. You should measure it now. If you still have endplay, there is no need to go any further with tearing it apart.
Of course, you can take whatever advice you want and do what you please with your car...I have said my peace and that's all I can do.
All I can say is that I am not a tuner, and even if I tune a few cars and they run, that does not necessarily qualify me to give rock solid advice on the subject, compared to someone who might have tuned hundreds of cars.
IF you do insist on taking the bolt out with the engine in the car, at least take the precaution of using a bar or piece of wood to jam the clutch pedal forward...this will push the shaft forward and lock the rear thrust bearing against the thrust plate, preventing it from slipping down should the stack slide forward a bit when you take tension off.
Also...I do not think it is good advice to pull the bolt and measure the distance between the eshaft and hub/boss. Anytime you take tension off of that bolt, you risk that a thrust bearing could fall due to gravity...that stack of parts on the front of the shaft likes to slide quite easily, especially when there is oil on it all. And, with the engine pointing forward instead of upward, gravity can act immediately should the stack slide at all. So, the act of checking that distance can cause the very problem you are trying to prevent.
IF you had endplay when it was bolted down on the stand, and that bolt has not been loosened since, then you should still have end play. You should measure it now. If you still have endplay, there is no need to go any further with tearing it apart.
Of course, you can take whatever advice you want and do what you please with your car...I have said my peace and that's all I can do.
All I can say is that I am not a tuner, and even if I tune a few cars and they run, that does not necessarily qualify me to give rock solid advice on the subject, compared to someone who might have tuned hundreds of cars.
IF you do insist on taking the bolt out with the engine in the car, at least take the precaution of using a bar or piece of wood to jam the clutch pedal forward...this will push the shaft forward and lock the rear thrust bearing against the thrust plate, preventing it from slipping down should the stack slide forward a bit when you take tension off.
