LOL

I like the optimism. But if you take the time you took here while SC'ing there isn't any reason why you should expect to blow up your engine. Having a fund set aside to buy one isnt a bad idea though.

 

I basically want this thing to last me through my long college career. I'm 25 now by the time I'm 30 I'll be done with school and should have moved up to supervisor at my job that I just landed.

Then I will be able to afford all kinds of crap I don't need just to say I have it. The 8 should be a fully dedicated track car by then as well.

 

paint it still

 

I like a man with a plan... all the luck to you Shady!

 

ehh with the chrome flake I had i cant expect much more than 50k out of it. and if its SC'd on the track id reduce that down to about 35k.

 

I could, however I'm a bit worried paint will get into areas that it doesn't belong. Both of us have been super duper **** clean freaks through the whole process id hate for some spray paint to botch the whole thing.

 

mask mask and mask lol

 

Nice one. hahaha "research" gotta love it.

Just what I needed to lighten the mood of this godforsaken final paper.

 

 

A little weekend update for my patient viewers.











Just an fyi we haven't tightened down he tension bolts yet so there is some spacing. incase you notice that... no need to freak out. engine gets transported tomorrow to my garage and the real task begins.

 

Weird, I don't see silicone ooozing out all over from between the housings like my Mazda reman.

 

lookin good!

 

Nice pics ! Thats what Im going to do, not for the 8, for the 7.

Quick question, the cherry picker , I am going to buy one. but ! do I need the Engine leveler ? or I can just buy 1 chains and pick the engine up ?

 

You don't need a leveler but you will need a rotary engine adapter plate for the engine stand.

 

Yea silicone oozed out of the bottom when the silicone was supposed to be applied.

We did smear **** tons of hylomar all over the faces and mating areas and followed the FSM for proper silicone sealing.

yea its a little bit of a bitch to get out off the bell housing but its doable. Good luck with your rebuild.


Just for a heads up I thinned down the crappy hylomar with a small portion of acetone making it workable. Once the acetone wears off it leaves the hylomar in its original condition.

I think that should have been fine well see when the engine starts up lol.

 

Why didn't you paint the three cast irons?

 

read back a few pages you lazy man

 

i wanna see this bitch run already

 

WOOOO front cover is on! tomorrow the short block will be done and the real challenge begins...

Changing the rear trans seal and figuring out Medusa (wiring harness).

 

thats what Im thinking too.

Where did ya get the Engine adapter ? Im thinking of Pineapple Racing. any other "possibly cheaper" source??

 

Pineapple has it the cheapest. I went with mazdatrix becuase I like instant gratification and they are 30 mins away.

 

you also need a few other specialty tools I think you have some already. the flywheel nut tool or equivalent, flywheel stop, dowel pin puller (go with the rb one or just make one).

I'm sure you knew all that though, just figured id throw it out there in case you didn't.

 

yea I got all those already.

Gonna order the adapter from pineapple racing first, then gonna get the stand and cherry picker.

thx

 

Nice! Good luck and godspeed.

 

You dont need no stinkin' special tools bro. You can get the flywheel socket at sears. There is not really a need for a dowel pin puller...the normally slide right out with little to no effort. Very few times is a puller really necessary...maybe 1 in 10 engine teardowns.

I made my engine adapter head from a piece of angle iron and a welder. I cut holes in one side of the angle iron/channel and then determined at what position to mount it so that the engine would be centered. Then I welded the iron to the "stock" head on the engine stand in that position. Cost about $5 and an hour over 10 years ago.