My engine rebuild.
You dont need no stinkin' special tools bro. You can get the flywheel socket at sears. There is not really a need for a dowel pin puller...the normally slide right out with little to no effort. Very few times is a puller really necessary...maybe 1 in 10 engine teardowns.
I made my engine adapter head from a piece of angle iron and a welder. I cut holes in one side of the angle iron/channel and then determined at what position to mount it so that the engine would be centered. Then I welded the iron to the "stock" head on the engine stand in that position. Cost about $5 and an hour over 10 years ago.
I made my engine adapter head from a piece of angle iron and a welder. I cut holes in one side of the angle iron/channel and then determined at what position to mount it so that the engine would be centered. Then I welded the iron to the "stock" head on the engine stand in that position. Cost about $5 and an hour over 10 years ago.
I did the sears socket as well but I went even cheaper and bought the breaker bar at harbor freight! I never specified the type I just said you need one jeeeeez.
Sadly though I needed the rb dowel pin puller (although i could have bought a bolt and a piece of metal and welded it, but again I like instant gratification) 2 of mine were a bit jammed and needed a good tug.
But yea you don't need those things I agree It's just nice to have around.
What typically happens is that the novice buys all sorts of tools and hardware, because they need to being new at this, and then as the novice gains more experience they eschew all that stuff and can do custom engine build with nothing more than a shoebox full of "tools".
I used to have a decent tool box and, now, all of my work is done from tools I have in my 40 lb. airline bag. Whether spark plug changes, F/I installation, or engine rebuilding does not matter.
So, Shady, keep at it and your tools will become fewer and fewer.
I used to have a decent tool box and, now, all of my work is done from tools I have in my 40 lb. airline bag. Whether spark plug changes, F/I installation, or engine rebuilding does not matter.
So, Shady, keep at it and your tools will become fewer and fewer.
I wrench on the side, so I have all sorts of random tools. Like my roommates mini cooper shes needs a 36 mm socket for her oil filter. Will I ever use that again? nope... but if a 3 series bmw or a mini cooper needs an oil change boom I got it covered. oh and the 27mm deep socket for the crankshaft bolt on a 300zx, thats never seeing use again. blahh so many random one time use tools. l
One last noob questions before I start the car tomorrow.
What kind of noises should I expect to hear if any?
What noises should I not expect to hear?
If I see coolant/oil start to leak out of the sides of the housings can I go and kill the first person I see?
What kind of noises should I expect to hear if any?
What noises should I not expect to hear?
If I see coolant/oil start to leak out of the sides of the housings can I go and kill the first person I see?
Infantry!!!
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles, CA
I lied one more question...
Break in procedure for a rebuilt engine would be? I'm aware RB has their own guidelines for this process but that is on a fresh engine with new bearings and housings etc.
I have used bearings and housings so the apex seals and side seals just need to find their place and I should be good right?
I'm thinking 200 miles under 4k and 200 more working up to 9k.
Maybe that sounds crazy and I should be slapped across the face with a noob hammer who knows.
Break in procedure for a rebuilt engine would be? I'm aware RB has their own guidelines for this process but that is on a fresh engine with new bearings and housings etc.
I have used bearings and housings so the apex seals and side seals just need to find their place and I should be good right?
I'm thinking 200 miles under 4k and 200 more working up to 9k.
Maybe that sounds crazy and I should be slapped across the face with a noob hammer who knows.
no noises other than normal ones.
of course that is not taking into consideration the screams from someone if a coolant leak is seen.
You wont have any oil pressure on cranking for a couple of seconds if you dont preload the system.
OD
of course that is not taking into consideration the screams from someone if a coolant leak is seen.
You wont have any oil pressure on cranking for a couple of seconds if you dont preload the system.
OD
kevin@rotaryresurrection
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,415
Likes: 61
From: east of Knoxville, TN
No unusual noise. Unplug the crank angle sensor and crank the engine for 10-20 seconds until you build oil pressure. You can check for sure by cracking the oil filter loose and seeing if any oil drips out. IF there is oil there you are good to go. Plug the crank angle sensor back in and fire it up. Give it some throttle when it first starts, bounce it around 1500-3500rpm.
After it clears up and seems to be running smoothly (about a minute) SLOWLY back off the throttle and see if it seems to want to idle below 1000. Try not to let it die, because it will be a bitch to get restarted if you do. IF it idles, let it...if not, use a brick or similar on the gas pedal to hold it about 2000rpm. After 5-10 minutes the PCM will defeat this and reset the idle to normal in spite of the gas pedal, if the gas pedal position is not varied, so move it a little every few minutes.
Once you have it so it will stay running with you out of the car, go out and check for leaks. Expect smoke from the exhaust and in the engine bay as it burns off the exhaust components and radiator etc. Do not shut it off unless you have to for some reason.
An IR thermometer is nice to check oil and coolant temps at the engine and heat exchangers themselves since the gauges in these cars are useless.
After about a half hour it should pretty much idle on its own. Go for a drive, bearing in mind you'll have to slip the clutch more than normal because it will have a weak low end and will be easy to stall. Stay under about 4000rpm and half throttle. DO a short run around your neighborhood, come back and check for leaks etc. Then take it out on the highway for 10-20 miles if you want. This helps a lot.
Now you can come back home and shut it off ,and see how hard it is to restart. The easier it restarts, the better compression you have, and the better job of building it you did/better parts you used. Also check and top off fluids after it has cooled off.
For break in I would change the oil at 500 miles and stay under 4000 for at least that long also. By the time you have 1000 on it I would be redlining it.
After it clears up and seems to be running smoothly (about a minute) SLOWLY back off the throttle and see if it seems to want to idle below 1000. Try not to let it die, because it will be a bitch to get restarted if you do. IF it idles, let it...if not, use a brick or similar on the gas pedal to hold it about 2000rpm. After 5-10 minutes the PCM will defeat this and reset the idle to normal in spite of the gas pedal, if the gas pedal position is not varied, so move it a little every few minutes.
Once you have it so it will stay running with you out of the car, go out and check for leaks. Expect smoke from the exhaust and in the engine bay as it burns off the exhaust components and radiator etc. Do not shut it off unless you have to for some reason.
An IR thermometer is nice to check oil and coolant temps at the engine and heat exchangers themselves since the gauges in these cars are useless.
After about a half hour it should pretty much idle on its own. Go for a drive, bearing in mind you'll have to slip the clutch more than normal because it will have a weak low end and will be easy to stall. Stay under about 4000rpm and half throttle. DO a short run around your neighborhood, come back and check for leaks etc. Then take it out on the highway for 10-20 miles if you want. This helps a lot.
Now you can come back home and shut it off ,and see how hard it is to restart. The easier it restarts, the better compression you have, and the better job of building it you did/better parts you used. Also check and top off fluids after it has cooled off.
For break in I would change the oil at 500 miles and stay under 4000 for at least that long also. By the time you have 1000 on it I would be redlining it.
I lied one more question...
Break in procedure for a rebuilt engine would be? I'm aware RB has their own guidelines for this process but that is on a fresh engine with new bearings and housings etc.
I have used bearings and housings so the apex seals and side seals just need to find their place and I should be good right?
I'm thinking 200 miles under 4k and 200 more working up to 9k.
Maybe that sounds crazy and I should be slapped across the face with a noob hammer who knows.
Break in procedure for a rebuilt engine would be? I'm aware RB has their own guidelines for this process but that is on a fresh engine with new bearings and housings etc.
I have used bearings and housings so the apex seals and side seals just need to find their place and I should be good right?
I'm thinking 200 miles under 4k and 200 more working up to 9k.
Maybe that sounds crazy and I should be slapped across the face with a noob hammer who knows.
shadycrew31 let me know how your engine sounds, as mine sounds throatier, if that is a word, with the RB porting.
The PCM sweeps the throttle and then checks the minimum range again the very first time you press it (that is why it seems to have no initial throttle response the first time you blip it after a reflash).
The PCM will only attempt to change the position profile if the commanded (gas pedal) and actual (TPS) values do not correlate.
You can use your "brick on the pedal" technique all you want - it will not reset the idle profile.
BTW - my preferred method of breaking in a motor is to do all the things that RR recommended above and then go out an absolutely beat on the motor.
A dyno is good for this.
kevin@rotaryresurrection
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,415
Likes: 61
From: east of Knoxville, TN
I've never seen that and there is no routine for that in the PCM.
The PCM sweeps the throttle and then checks the minimum range again the very first time you press it (that is why it seems to have no initial throttle response the first time you blip it after a reflash).
The PCM will only attempt to change the position profile if the commanded (gas pedal) and actual (TPS) values do not correlate.
You can use your "brick on the pedal" technique all you want - it will not reset the idle profile.
BTW - my preferred method of breaking in a motor is to do all the things that RR recommended above and then go out an absolutely beat on the motor.
A dyno is good for this.
The PCM sweeps the throttle and then checks the minimum range again the very first time you press it (that is why it seems to have no initial throttle response the first time you blip it after a reflash).
The PCM will only attempt to change the position profile if the commanded (gas pedal) and actual (TPS) values do not correlate.
You can use your "brick on the pedal" technique all you want - it will not reset the idle profile.
BTW - my preferred method of breaking in a motor is to do all the things that RR recommended above and then go out an absolutely beat on the motor.
A dyno is good for this.
I've repeated it several times on more than one car...not sure why it happens. But if you use some stationary object to hold the throttle at 2-3krpm for more than 5-10 minutes, the car will suddenly drop down to idle on its own even though that object has not moved and the gas pedal is still partially depressed. Removing the object and varying the gas pedal makes the car respond normally again.
Yeah, there is a routine for keeping the CAT from overheating (I'm sure you've heard the stories of total immolation from people with high idles parked on grass).
If you keep it in the 1.5k range, it won't do it.
I've repeated it several times on more than one car...not sure why it happens. But if you use some stationary object to hold the throttle at 2-3krpm for more than 5-10 minutes, the car will suddenly drop down to idle on its own even though that object has not moved and the gas pedal is still partially depressed. Removing the object and varying the gas pedal makes the car respond normally again.
Last edited by nycgps; Jun 11, 2010 at 12:42 AM.
