olddragger

iTrader: (3)

good info on the cleaners Jax--appreciate it and it sounds very lodgical. However, I dissagree on the omp providing enough oil--even at high rpm. The omp for one thing is injecting engine oil into the combustion chamber--that is not as good as other choices. A mod can be done true but I just prefer to run Royal Purple engine oil and premix. The omp MAY be injecting enough oil to make the 60000 mile warrenty but I dont believe it is injected enough for us even with moderate amount of mods, or the high temps we are having. I know this discussion could probably go on forever, but I do know this, my car runs better with a pre mix of 1/2 oz to the gallon--
olddragger

Jax_RX8

All valid points - I think we are pretty close on thoughts

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

agreed
OD

arlo

Would it do any good to mix unleaded aviation gas? Would this change the burn rate and possibly make the motor run worse? Could a small amount mixed maybe raise the octane rating?

1stgen8

iTrader: (1)

Today was my first time using premix. I used Pennzoil Marine Full Synthetic 2-Cycle oil....only one I could find. I really think it makes a difference. My car runs smoother and feels more responsive.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I think you misunderstand something here. People (myself included) add Premix to their car is for the life of the engine. So the Housing would be more *Slippery* plus better Seal for Combusion.

What you're thinking is to reduce the chance of Knocking. and I thought that all Aviation Gas has lead in it ? dont put it in.

OMCWankel

I have been using pre-mix in the gas, with FP60, for the life of the car now, 35,000 mi. I have passed emission testing, and have little soot on the exhaust tips. I currently use Royal Purple 2-stroke TCWIII, with FP60. Ratio is 1.5 oz FP60 and 2.5 oz Royal Purple 2-stroke TCWIII per 1/2 tank fill (7-8 gal). Car runs like new, smooth and powerful. I have also previously used Castrol TCWIII, and Mobile 1 2-stroke synthetic pre-mix.

I have had two minor loss of power events, both at high ambient temp (95-100 F) and low speeds. These events were caused by a partially blocked oil cooler, with 50% of the fins bent. I corrected this with an oil cooler screen, and straightening the fins. I believe the pre-mix helped to prevent permanent damage to the engine seals during these two events.

All in all, I can see several upsides to using pre-mix as a supplement to the OMP, and no downsides, other than a slight increase in fill-up cost.

This thread has been a great discussion, with many viewpoints aired. It helped me come up with my current formula, and I hope it helped others.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Have done almost 2000 miles now using Moreys UCL/injector cleaner at one squirt per tank +/- a bit .
Pretty sure this product is very similar to Lucas UCL.
Anyway I've just started noticing something interesting .
*Improved fuel consumption - too early to be conclusive but will monitor carefully now as it may well be a real saving.
*did a scanalyser run in third gear today . I matched with an earlier (pre UCL) run with the same intake & coolant temps & got 0.5s improvement from 4000rpm to 9000 rpm . Find this hard to believe so will need to do some more testing to verify .
I don't like to make claims I am not sure about so will just say that It is looking good .

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Guys --- look at my thread in the aftermarket section. We MAY have a problem. If anyone has changed their pumps that have been premixing what did you find?
olddragger

Nemesis8

iTrader: (3)

od - you said 1/2 ounce per gallon? That means 4 oz for 8 gallons - sounds like too much premix. Shouldn't this be 4oz per tank or 12-13 gallons?

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

1/2 gallon was though to be ok. My friends(TA) pump /sock was worse than mine and he runs 1/4 oz/gal. Go figue. The pumps have been sent for eval.
Olddragger

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

just to update--some fuel pump results are in and the 1st study shows we definately have a flow problem--see fuel starvation thread.
olddragger

myhui

After reading many of the threads, how about I do this, as a compromise between technical correctness and preserving my legal options on the drivetrain warranty:

1. Keep using 5W20 Valvoline as mandated by dealer, but have dealer change oil every month or 2000 miles, whichever comes first.
2. Do not modify OMP to inject pre-mix, although that would be the best as oil especially formulated for combustion would be injected instead of multi-purpose and possibly dirty crankcase oil.
3. Avoid slow traffic in hot climate. Just keep it to highway miles, between 4000 and 7000 rpm, 1/2 throttle at most, maybe a WOT blast to 7000 rpm once every 30 minutes of driving. I've read elsewhere that Mazda's insistence of 5W20 instead of 5W30 is becoming a major point of contention about what's good for engine longevity versus gas mileage. So avoiding long heat soaks is one way to let 5W20 do its work without requiring 5W30.
4. Always engage clutch in first gear with engine above 3000 rpm and just gently let it pick up. Never bog down engine and go WOT at below 1500 rpm after clutch is already fully engaged.

Anything else, folks? Don't turn the engine backwards, so make sure car is in correct gear if parked on steep incline and parking brake starts to slip?

I bought a 120 months / 100k miles powertrain warranty through Mazda. I'll do my part, and am curious on how this experiment will turn out. Car is just my daily driver, 90% highway, not congested, in not-too-hot SoCal climate, so I think the conditions are already ideal for a long lasting engine for this car.

At least there isn't a timing belt to skip a tooth on this engine, or bent valve stems to worry about if piston hits exhaust valves.

eforer

I don't think this has been mentioned before, but I found a great little device for measuring out premix. Its a hand pump that threads on to gallon bottles (like FP60) and administers 1oz per pump. There is an internal hose attachment which can be cut to accomodate tall or short bottles and also an external hose that slips tightly over the external nozzle to make it easier to administer the fluid into the filler. I am going to transfer my lucas UCL into a similar container and use a pump for that too.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

a link would be nice..

beers

eforer

Whoops, forgot the where to get it part!

I bought mine at advance auto parts, you can also get a similar one from
amsoil

swoope

iTrader: (5)

thx

beers

map

Did you try this yet?

I just filled up my new 8 with its first tank of gas last night along with 4oz of Lucas UCL. Trying to decide if the UCL alone is enough lube, or if I should use a 50/50 mix of 2-stroke oil to UCL like some of you are doing. Thoughts?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

I'm just using Moreys UCL which I believe is a similar product . Personally I don't see the need for premix unless you are tracking the car . UCL is supposed to prevent carbon buildup as well so I figure it is a good option.

h-khunterkiller

i use a small baby formula bottle is 5 oz exactly, i saw it in a gas station and ahhh!! just what i need it fits right in the hole too. make sure if you use one to take out the nipple it will swell

ASH8

For Australian's who fill up Petrol/Gas in Litres...

If you are going to run Pre-Mix with the MOP working as normal I would suggest adding 1 mil per 1 litre of fuel, or 1000:1

Jax_RX8

Looked Morey's up - Looks like a decent product for cleaning and lubrication - looks similar in chemistry to Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) in the US.

Morey's is 60% Naphtha for cleaning (solvent) and about 1% ZDDP for lubrication with some other ingredients mixed in as well for good measure.

MMO is 60-70% Naphtha and 20-30% Mineral Spirits for cleaning - 1% Chlorinated Hydrocarbons, Sulfur, and ZDDP for lubrication.

Jax_RX8

You should be just fine with 4oz of Lucas UCL per tank from a lubrication perspective.

Lucas UCL is an excellent lubricant and mild cleaner.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Jax - do you think Lucas would be a better lubricant than Moreys ?

Jax_RX8

I think Lucas UCL would be a better overall product than Morey's (or MMO), assuming you can get it in New Zealand.

While no on knows exactly what is in Lucas UCL - it is speculated that is has Polyisobutylene (PIB) as one of it's key ingredients for lubricity and cleaning.

It has NO solvents and that is why the cleaning is milder compared to others like FP3000/FP60. But I would choose this second for my 8 if I could not get FP.