Pettit Super Charger Owners
08-29-2010, 10:23 PM
#7726
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hmmm..not sure what I think of this mod. It probably added ~10lbs to the nose of the car. And the thick PVC probably insulates pretty well so it could go either way. Do you have it pre or post intercooler? I think with the greater capacity with no added radiator it simply stabilizes the temp. It will take longer to raise the temp, but it will also take longer to lower it. So if you are generating more heat than the radiator can remove over a steady amount of time, not only will you still get hot, but it will also take longer to get those temps back down. For short bursts where you never exceed that point, I could see a benefit though.
I love seeing guys try stuff like this! Look forward to the results.
I love seeing guys try stuff like this! Look forward to the results.
You are right, sometimes I add/mod things. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. Sometimes I doesn't do jack.
08-30-2010, 08:43 AM
#7727
We think alike Bro. I am all for moving the storage outside the engine bay for heat soak prevention. Tank is ok while driving. Its when you park and then drive again in just a few minutes--- thats my interest.
A gallon of hot water will stay hot in a insulated tank or even an aluminum tank. It doesnt radiate heat off well.
So my idea is to place to curcumvent heat soak.
And this is what you have done. Overall it will not run much cooler during driving? But park, and then go should be a lot better?
To others---about the APV--yep that is what I am thinking also. Hot gasses are coming back on us. Due to the port timing? Dont know for sure , but I am nOT going that way again.
OD
OD
A gallon of hot water will stay hot in a insulated tank or even an aluminum tank. It doesnt radiate heat off well.
So my idea is to place to curcumvent heat soak.
And this is what you have done. Overall it will not run much cooler during driving? But park, and then go should be a lot better?
To others---about the APV--yep that is what I am thinking also. Hot gasses are coming back on us. Due to the port timing? Dont know for sure , but I am nOT going that way again.
OD
OD
08-30-2010, 01:57 PM
#7729
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08-30-2010, 02:38 PM
#7730
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Some temps…
Today’s ambient temperatures during my test run were 86-88 degrees. Engine coolant temperatures were 178-185 degrees. Driving under all kinds of conditions (highway speed 65-80 mhp, spirited driving and stop n go. All with AC at full blast and over an hour of driving.
First: Testing my improved insulated air filter box. Engine compartment temp with engine off and hood close were 131 degrees. The readings were taken from a temp digital meter and temp probe located on top of the filter cone.
At idle 104 degrees
Between 20 and 60 mph 86 degrees
Pass 60 mph 80 degrees
Second: Testing my improved pvc pipe intercooler contraption. (w/m off all the time) Stop n go traffic AIT was at a steady 120 degrees. Noted that there was no temp fluctuation as before. Highway driving (70-80mph) got down to 114 degrees. Spirited highway driving got to 122 degrees.
I did park my car for 10 minutes with the hood close, electric/fluid pump left in the on position. After starting the engine my AIT was 130 degrees. Temps went down to 120 degrees after a minute or so of driving.
Overall I think the increase amount of fluid volume does help stabilize the AIT temperatures. However, a an aluminum external tank with pump mounted on top of the bumper reinforcement bar will be even better.
I do not have the equipment necessary to accomplish that task but I’ll bet some of you can. Anyone? BHR?
Today’s ambient temperatures during my test run were 86-88 degrees. Engine coolant temperatures were 178-185 degrees. Driving under all kinds of conditions (highway speed 65-80 mhp, spirited driving and stop n go. All with AC at full blast and over an hour of driving.
First: Testing my improved insulated air filter box. Engine compartment temp with engine off and hood close were 131 degrees. The readings were taken from a temp digital meter and temp probe located on top of the filter cone.
At idle 104 degrees
Between 20 and 60 mph 86 degrees
Pass 60 mph 80 degrees
Second: Testing my improved pvc pipe intercooler contraption. (w/m off all the time) Stop n go traffic AIT was at a steady 120 degrees. Noted that there was no temp fluctuation as before. Highway driving (70-80mph) got down to 114 degrees. Spirited highway driving got to 122 degrees.
I did park my car for 10 minutes with the hood close, electric/fluid pump left in the on position. After starting the engine my AIT was 130 degrees. Temps went down to 120 degrees after a minute or so of driving.
Overall I think the increase amount of fluid volume does help stabilize the AIT temperatures. However, a an aluminum external tank with pump mounted on top of the bumper reinforcement bar will be even better.
I do not have the equipment necessary to accomplish that task but I’ll bet some of you can. Anyone? BHR?
08-30-2010, 03:14 PM
#7731
nice Juan--good feed back.
You and I are running about neck to neck. Spirited driving can kick it up quick though.
You know, i have found that if i let my engine temps get a little above 180F and my AIT stay above 120--it seems to run a little smoother. Hard to quantify but it is a difference.
Maybe its likes a little heat?
Have you noticed anything like that?
Wish we had some more of those 95F days----that seems to be the temp when the intercooler wants to get a little touchy.
OD
You and I are running about neck to neck. Spirited driving can kick it up quick though.
You know, i have found that if i let my engine temps get a little above 180F and my AIT stay above 120--it seems to run a little smoother. Hard to quantify but it is a difference.
Maybe its likes a little heat?
Have you noticed anything like that?
Wish we had some more of those 95F days----that seems to be the temp when the intercooler wants to get a little touchy.
OD
08-30-2010, 04:35 PM
#7732
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Ok guys talked the wife into doing a supercharger after i get stastioned where ever they put me, so probably by about april of 2011 but thats not that far aways, now i need reviews iv read alot on this thread but alot is about tunning, so how do u like ur supercharger and what do i need to do before i get the set up? update the fueling systems or anything like that? going to get the stage 2 kit. Are there any problems with the kit people have noticed other then burning threw tires and speeding tickets haha
08-31-2010, 07:52 AM
#7735
Ok guys talked the wife into doing a supercharger after i get stastioned where ever they put me, so probably by about april of 2011 but thats not that far aways, now i need reviews iv read alot on this thread but alot is about tunning, so how do u like ur supercharger and what do i need to do before i get the set up? update the fueling systems or anything like that? going to get the stage 2 kit. Are there any problems with the kit people have noticed other then burning threw tires and speeding tickets haha
1. Acquire and install an upgraded fuel pump. The owners have gone in several directions for this but a fuel pump upgrade from BHR works very well
2. Up grade your cooling system. I would suggest a BHR radiator and depending on where you live, Pettit makes a great secondary cooling system for adding on to your upgraded radiator.
3. Your suspension will undergo stress due to the added hp. Read this thread and others to see what direction you are going. A lot depends on if you will race or do any competitive driving on the direction you need to go.
4. Avoid any "bolt on" type mods because you will find they will become obsolete when you add the s/c. Wait until you actually have the s/c before purchasing any "bolt on" mod.
5. Read this thread from the start. You will find several suggestions for mods that will enhance your s/c enjoyment
08-31-2010, 10:26 AM
#7736
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If you do so, you're damn good...take a one week haliday and avoid erevy arguing pages like the ones comparing S/C and turbo
08-31-2010, 10:27 AM
#7737
Well I have a quest.
I would like to improve the a/w intercooler efficentcy. I dont have too--mine does fine, but for just a project I would like to get the advance temps to only 20F instead of the 30-40 i see now. This is in reference to street driving only--on track i am using the w/m system continiously.
With experience and in researching, some things I have found to be important are (please add to this anyone)
1- dont push the water through to fast--it does take a little time to shed heat
2- the cooler should have the best efficentcy that you can find without blocking too much air flow for the rest of the cars needs. I may have found a secret here--hehe
3- the pusher pumps we use need the biggest hose you can find that will fit--to feed it. These pumps do not like to have any restriction on the suck side.
4- Like Juan has done --it needs a "timer" to continue to circulate after shut down. it would be great to have a 2 speed pump. This is to combat heat soak.
5- Get the coolant tank outside the engine bay and into air flow also--if at all possible.
6- insulate the return "cool" hose going to the engine. It can also heat soak.
7- get the coolest air to the air intake that you can.
Any others?
My secret I found is a heater core from a 75-88 Ford light truck that is 21 inches long, 3 inches high and 2 inches thick. Heater cores seem to be a good choice? Options for placement of such a cooler could be interesting--hehe
Stay tuned.
OD
I would like to improve the a/w intercooler efficentcy. I dont have too--mine does fine, but for just a project I would like to get the advance temps to only 20F instead of the 30-40 i see now. This is in reference to street driving only--on track i am using the w/m system continiously.
With experience and in researching, some things I have found to be important are (please add to this anyone)
1- dont push the water through to fast--it does take a little time to shed heat
2- the cooler should have the best efficentcy that you can find without blocking too much air flow for the rest of the cars needs. I may have found a secret here--hehe
3- the pusher pumps we use need the biggest hose you can find that will fit--to feed it. These pumps do not like to have any restriction on the suck side.
4- Like Juan has done --it needs a "timer" to continue to circulate after shut down. it would be great to have a 2 speed pump. This is to combat heat soak.
5- Get the coolant tank outside the engine bay and into air flow also--if at all possible.
6- insulate the return "cool" hose going to the engine. It can also heat soak.
7- get the coolest air to the air intake that you can.
Any others?
My secret I found is a heater core from a 75-88 Ford light truck that is 21 inches long, 3 inches high and 2 inches thick. Heater cores seem to be a good choice? Options for placement of such a cooler could be interesting--hehe
Stay tuned.
OD
. There is a lot of good information in this thread 
08-31-2010, 02:11 PM
#7740
Tailgaters beware
Some temps…
Today’s ambient temperatures during my test run were 86-88 degrees. Engine coolant temperatures were 178-185 degrees. Driving under all kinds of conditions (highway speed 65-80 mhp, spirited driving and stop n go. All with AC at full blast and over an hour of driving.
First: Testing my improved insulated air filter box. Engine compartment temp with engine off and hood close were 131 degrees. The readings were taken from a temp digital meter and temp probe located on top of the filter cone.
At idle 104 degrees
Between 20 and 60 mph 86 degrees
Pass 60 mph 80 degrees
Second: Testing my improved pvc pipe intercooler contraption. (w/m off all the time) Stop n go traffic AIT was at a steady 120 degrees. Noted that there was no temp fluctuation as before. Highway driving (70-80mph) got down to 114 degrees. Spirited highway driving got to 122 degrees.
I did park my car for 10 minutes with the hood close, electric/fluid pump left in the on position. After starting the engine my AIT was 130 degrees. Temps went down to 120 degrees after a minute or so of driving.
Overall I think the increase amount of fluid volume does help stabilize the AIT temperatures. However, a an aluminum external tank with pump mounted on top of the bumper reinforcement bar will be even better.
I do not have the equipment necessary to accomplish that task but I’ll bet some of you can. Anyone? BHR?
Today’s ambient temperatures during my test run were 86-88 degrees. Engine coolant temperatures were 178-185 degrees. Driving under all kinds of conditions (highway speed 65-80 mhp, spirited driving and stop n go. All with AC at full blast and over an hour of driving.
First: Testing my improved insulated air filter box. Engine compartment temp with engine off and hood close were 131 degrees. The readings were taken from a temp digital meter and temp probe located on top of the filter cone.
At idle 104 degrees
Between 20 and 60 mph 86 degrees
Pass 60 mph 80 degrees
Second: Testing my improved pvc pipe intercooler contraption. (w/m off all the time) Stop n go traffic AIT was at a steady 120 degrees. Noted that there was no temp fluctuation as before. Highway driving (70-80mph) got down to 114 degrees. Spirited highway driving got to 122 degrees.
I did park my car for 10 minutes with the hood close, electric/fluid pump left in the on position. After starting the engine my AIT was 130 degrees. Temps went down to 120 degrees after a minute or so of driving.
Overall I think the increase amount of fluid volume does help stabilize the AIT temperatures. However, a an aluminum external tank with pump mounted on top of the bumper reinforcement bar will be even better.
I do not have the equipment necessary to accomplish that task but I’ll bet some of you can. Anyone? BHR?
I think it would help to radiate heat similar to a cpu, gpu or pc memory heat sink. Maybe only a few degrees, but in that FL heat you could use every bit you can get.
08-31-2010, 02:56 PM
#7742
Registered
You will want a real temp gauge; I use the Aeroforce Interceptor OBD2; PLX devices is nice too.
The stock temp gauge is just an idiot light with a fake needle.
You will want a water methanol kit.
Do not inject 75/25 Methanol/Nitromethane in place of the water methanol mix....
08-31-2010, 04:04 PM
#7745
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Ok guys in ur opinion should i go ahead and spend the money on parts to get the car set up for it and wait a year or really just push to try to get all cooling parts for the car before i leave for basic? I want to beable to to get stastioned somewhere and get the supercharger put on after we get settled in.
08-31-2010, 08:19 PM
#7750
well finally broke down and bought the silicone rad hoses cam sells and the upgraded bypass valve.
This tubo xs bpv i believe has seen its better day. it may be the reason i can never get over 9lbs of boost?--althought i do get 365 g/sec air flow.
Guess we will find out.
OD
This tubo xs bpv i believe has seen its better day. it may be the reason i can never get over 9lbs of boost?--althought i do get 365 g/sec air flow.
Guess we will find out.
OD