Moon Assad

Looks pricy but you gotta pay to play. Not sure if they have them for the 09 but I mailed them asking. I like haltech, ive seen Richy Rasado put down over 1100 WHP on a 7 with one. Better and more proven option then anything ive seen that might work on a 09.

JMKuco

what realluy is that ?
a new engine management ?
we have to take out all the OEM wires ?

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Moon--I like that set up--the cooler. Nice welds also.
I noticed the angle of the TB is different--are you headed where I think you are headed?
Dont think you will get anymore pressure--but throttle response maybe will be a milisec better?
Most cooling will be done with water meth anyway---right?
So go ahead and place duel nozzle spots on the system?
Really looking forward to this----maybe an 09 model in my future?


Another subject---i am starting to get the 2004 code--- apv stuck open. Anyone else have that show up? I am ordering the new parts that are listed in the TSB.
OD

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

A very expensive engine management system that may or may not work with the 09/10 engines (as yet unproven to my knowledge). The Cobb AP does an excellent job on the 04 thru 08 engines if properly tuned. I have no direct knowledge of Pettit flash system currently in use.

Moon Assad

A quick subject change. Woke up and noticed the US is pulling out of Iraq, awesome. Its about time. Support our home coming troops, they deserve it.

Ok, Yeh Denny, I'm trying something I wanted to do before the final design was set in stone. I'm trying to use the stock air box because in my opinion its the best filter setup you can use. I have the IC tank sitting lower so I can use the plastic engine cover to add more stealth under the hood. I'm also not using the supplied overflow tank for the IC setup. I've fitted the washer fluid tank with the IC pump, no cutting or drilling needed plus the pump sits behind it out of site. Ill put a tank in the trunk for the washer fluid. I'm also mounting the coils behind the air box strait to plastic, you now my feelings on the metal backing plate. I'm trying to avoid using water/meth. Id rather not drive on a hot day and I have a simple idea about how to bring the IC temps down buy tapping the AC system like Ford has done in the past. Just going about it in a different way.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Out of Iraq?--About damn time. Glad to see the guys coming home.
Oh and the news will probably doom and gloom about the downfall of that country now.

Some ideas?
Like the factory airbox thing--to help keep cool air to the s.c. I had to do some fabbing to insure cool air to mine.
Get that a/w coolant tank out of that hot engine bay? Find one off a jet ski or something and mount it on the front bumper support. That thing cannot shed ANY heat sitting in the engine bay. You can upgraded the a/w pump with a live baitwell one that will fit nice in the space between the oil cooler and the front air /grille-- supports itself there once you drill the holes for the hoses to come through. It will get you a much better flow--its easily replaceable (if you ever need to) and it AUTOMATICALLY primes itself since it is mounted so low.
I used a summit racing cooler with in and out hoses on the side and that lets the pump almost mount directly to it. Got rid of all thoses hoses with the other set up. That set up worked well, but I never did like all that hose. Cooler was inexpensive--i may have $130 in both pump and cooler. It works just as well. It is a 21x10 cooler with "special " features lol.
Yep ---coils--i hear ya and I have added plastic to my plate also.
Dont discount w/m too soon--it does so much more than cool.
Keep it coming dude!

dondo

iTrader: (7)

^ do you have pics of the pump setup yet? i'm still not sure where you're mounting it..

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Well, it is time to take it to the next level. I decided to join NASA. No, not the National Aeronautics and Space Administration (I don’t have the necessary IQ level to even get a job as a janitor and my pockets are full of broken crayons). I joined the National Auto Sport Association Florida Region. It is time to take my RX8 to the big league tracks of Florida (Sebring, Homestead and PBIR).

I got tired of spending long days/nights at the local overcrowded Central Florida autocross and dragstrips. The autocross events are usually short courses with plenty of 90+ degree turns in order to keep the speed down. That is no good for our low torque engines hence making us slow out of sharp 90+ corners. Compounded by very short straight-aways thus not allowing the RX8 take advantage of its high rev engine where the power comes alive. The dragstrip is ok but the RX8 was not really designed for that type of event. Lots of stress inflicted to the engine/drive-train and a snail pace of an average 45 minutes to an hour between each pass.

I’ll be at PBIR on the 5th September for my first NASA High Performance Driving Event (HPDE) and 3rd October at Sebring. I’m going to baby step (as always) my way up the HPDE food chain and learn to push my car and myself at the track.

dondo

iTrader: (7)

^ congrats

Galen Darkmoon

Rock On Dude:
Very little rocks like an 8 in the corners.

Moon Assad

Not trying to put the tank so far away from the AC lines cause I plan on tapping them and running a coil into the tank. Its plastic and thick, wont really conduct heat all that much plus if need be ill insolate it. Its just exactly were I need it. I like the idea behind the water/meth, hell it almost freezes the intake but I didn't need it on my other 8, id only run it for long duration racing if I do install it. I'm just not wanting all the clutter either, there's enough already. I like clean, simple and functional. If I add any tanks for the meth it would be in the trunk, id put the pump there also. Gotta remember that I'm taking up a lot of engine bay room with the stock air box, that’s the only downside to using it but think about it, its got a velocity stack inside plus a lot of filter surface, it also pulls cold air instead of hot air and will look very stock yet be functional and also has a MAF tube. Plus I have one of the original RX8 none paper filters from my 04.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Now thats one hell of an idea dude. And so trick. Glad to see that northen air hasnt affected your thinking.
I hear you about space---i trunk mounted mine--tank and pump. w/m pumps are a pusher type and its no problem to be that far away. I ran my meth line inside the car through the center console--then through the firewall on the drivers side.
With that much true cold air and your cooler climate--you may not need that 2nd nozzle before the blower?
You have seen the moroso tanks a few of us have for the coolant? approx 1 gallon--little over. But with its large filling hole and being made out of aluminum--- may make it easier to get that coil in? You could always heat wrap it. Mount it in the space where the ww tank is and then just use a small cannister for the ww fluid somewhere else? Then you would have room for the pump under it and the pump would never loose prime.
You could also drill into the fender well and run the "hot" line to the cooler in there and take advantage of all that cool air flow. A long hose can offer a good bit of cooling itself. They make some ribbed SS hose just for that purpose.
rock on dude--damn good thinking---i never even thought about placing an a/c coil there.
OD

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

The only problem in using the AC for charge cooling is the added stress running the AC has on the engine, and the power needed to turn the A|C pump in the first place

How much power are you giving up...trying to lower charge temps to get more power??


Dunno...hope there is some data on this.....

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Hey Juan---- i just read your post---congrats man! You will be addicted in no time flat.
NASA is a good organization. We have been running with them for years.
We actually have talked about coming to Sebring. One of us already has. His vid showed me a track I could get lost on. He said by the 2nd day he had it down though and it was a blast and a very high speed track.
You know you are going to need wheels/tires right? lol.
Lots of things I can share dude.

Dan --i think Moon is doing this to address only cruising temps/heat soak times?.. During performance runs the w/m takes over and the a/c is off?
OD

california style

Go Juan.

NASA HPDE sounds fun. Cam just won his class at Sebring the other day on a time attack session....

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Yes he did and driving a good old 3rd gen RX7

http://redlinetimeattack.com/ti/rl/c...ISptjXBm.html#

Super Modified - RWD
1 11 WORTH, CAM 02:24.841
2 99 ABDELBASET, SHA... 02:24.956
3 6 RICCA, JEFF 03:09.465

Moon Assad

Yeh, like OD said. Im just trying to keep the temps of the water down withought spraying meth constantly and waisting money on filling it everytime its empty. Im not worried about the little power a modern AC compressor draws. All im worried about is an uncluttered engine bay withought hoses running every wich way. Youl see once I have it all buttoned up, its going to be clean and factory looking. Denny, ive never had any problems with flow issues of the IC setups ive done, gotta remember its a recirculating system so it shouldnt have problems wether the pump sits low or high and the same goes for the tank. Your only going to have problems if the output is alot higher then the intake. If there both under the water line your ok. Plus if you think about it, if you have the water dropping into the tank your going to cause air bubbles and foaming.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

wow,

been gone for a while..

so not no kit can be bought complete?

denny.. meatball decal had nothing to do with sc. though flag did!

juan.. roebling road nov 5 7. email me if interested, btw, cfrc dead?

wondering.

as to the hacking of the ecu..

it was done way before cobb. sniper did it. bill talked to them, but it never came out.. sad. but true..

beers

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

welcome back dude
Meatball is now my symbol. My track theme

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Only doing drifting and autox at cfrc according to their website.

I'm going to stick to NASA FL for now before I venture somewhere else.

Baby stepping for now.

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

What tires do you recommend?

Keep in mind a couple of things. I'm not planning to buy an extra set of wheels nor is my car a DD. I'm not planning to change tires/wheels at the track too. Basically drive from my house to the track, race and drive back home.

Also, very important. I don't give a **** about winning/be number one and so on. I just want to drive my car fast (drive it like you stole it mode), enjoy it and don't worry about getting a speeding ticket. Got it?

Right now I'm running a set of Toyo Proxes R1R with plenty of meat on them. I like the tires a lot and no complains whatsoever. Great autoX tires and drag racing too.

The question is.......are there other tires out there brand name/model that are great for road race/highway drive? Any recomendations from you and the peanut gallery?

BTW, I sent you my number on a pm. Call me anytime so I can pick your grey matter or lack of it.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Ha---I am grey everywhere.
Some pretty good tires are out there but i true track tire will really bring the car alive.
Its easy to get good track seconds from the pro teams etc. You can get a set for $300 or so.
Then just the wheels.
To really bring a kick to the car you need a shorter tire. Under 25inches.
makes a world of difference ----but--- if you insist on running a street tire--it will be more expensive as they will not last..
Falken 615's are getting a new rubber compound that looks promising. Nitto nt 1's unshaved is another that a few use.
The trouble with street/track tires are they are not good at all in the rain. Really not that safe in the rain. The large thread blocks a street track tire has is why. not a lot of thread void area for the water to channel.

If you run a uhp street tire on a race track---they are going to overheat and the outside thread blocks are going to wear very fast--maybe even chunk.
It is a good idea to run the 1st and maybe the 2nd w/e with street tires and the dsc/tc ON.
After that --believe me --you will want real ones.

you will need track pads and brake fluid---no exceptions.

With the back seats out --need to do that so you can hear your engine better and the car will hold every think you need (including wheels/tires/when you are ready for them!).
# 1 rule--stay safe
#2--have fun.
DOnt forget to give me a point by

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Hard part is that as tires get better for the track/strip...they get worse for the highway getting there

How far would you be driving on the street to get there?

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Already took care of that...

-Hawk HP Front and Back.
-ATE Super Blue Brake Fluid.

Also, I don't drive in the rain and if it rains on track day...it will be very slow since my Proxes R1R are not all weather tires.

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

200 highway miles.