marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

The injectors mazda flow rate comes directly from mazda. However, I did spoke with Paul Yaw directly over the phone way back when I was doing my research and the flow bench test for both injectors (2004-08 and 09+) do NOT compare with what mazda specifies. I do remember that both flow about the same but he was the one that told me that the new 2009+ injectors spray pattern is much better than the 2004-08.

california style

OK, so what did you hear / see / measure Jeff?

(PS I can give you some private advice about how to not start arguments if you want)

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

hmm, so who has this 09+ P1 and P2 injectors ? anybody ?

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

had mine cleaned and balanced then just used cams modified yellows.
I have been interested in the newer injectors--just dont know if it is a good bang for the buck at present. If I had to do it over I would have went that way I do believe.

I think that I am going to try to run this w/e with my apvs open all the time. Brettus did some work with this and posted some good info. I think my flow map is different from his so my results may be different.
It may not work at all. ?
We shall see.
OD

swoope

iTrader: (5)

juan,

i have a garage full of tires and wheels.. let me know. and send me an email on you events with nasa. i would love to go to something local..

first event go with what you have. but if you want take the tires and wheels of my now track car.. really, it is quick and easy.

if the nasa event is soon. let me know. pm or email is faster. my screen name gmail.

really if you can go. the roebling road event is just a good group of people with no ego lots of learning. good beer, car ****. and the track is great for learning, but better as you learn..

beers

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

tell it Swoope! If yall could come it would be so cool. We just received notification of a RR event 9/25-26 in honor of wounded vets---25 wounded vets will attend and will be given 8/10 rides. How cool is that. Look it up through Darkside De events.

well I found out this morning that I have 8.5 # of boost available at 2.7K rpms. I didn't want to go any lower---so stay tuned for backyard open apv data this w/e.
OD

dondo

iTrader: (7)

for the guys with the bigger pulley, what'd you do besides upgrading injectors? any other concerns?

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

thats it--- if you are using the Pettit tune. I dont know about others.
OD

dondo

iTrader: (7)

well it's just a little more boost and a little more fuel, yes? so if your maps have the correct target afr it should be ok?

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Ding, Ding, Ding

dondo

iTrader: (7)

lol. thanks.. i think....

Moon Assad

I'm still waiting to hear back from Haltech, no rush since I can go ahead with the install and just keep the bypass disconnected or the belt off. I'm still waiting on 1 part to start. Since I have the 2 OMPs I need to remove the plate that sits on top of the engine from under the harness to install the relocation bracket I made up for them. This is going to be a little more involved but not a big deal. One problem I'm sure to run into is not enough fuel. Since I only have 4 injectors I wonder if I replace the primaries with another set of injectors the same as the subs will I have trouble getting the idle tuned in with the bigger injectors? What happens if you parallel an injector with another electrically? Does it give twice the fuel? Just thinking out loud.

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

car ****

Thanks for the offer and will send an email shortly. Can't do the RR cuz I work on Saturdays. The NASA Sunday events are more suitable and are schedule every month except for Jul and August. They do Homestead, PBIR and Sebring, all local tracks.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Moon and others---i am going to be fooling around with the apv's this w/e.
Yall realize i like under the curve and since i have good airflow (365g/sec at less than 8K) and i can get 8.5# boost by 2.5--2.7K rpm AND I have a self imposed redline of 7.5K then i am going to try to lock the apv's open and lets see what happens. I have done some things to the lim
a/f's are good in closed loop. already cranked it.
vdi was totally eliminated years ago, ssv oem opening rpm.
I have a feeling I am going to like it.
ANy thoughts/ideas?

Moon Assad

Its been a while, what RPM do they open?

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

6250

Does anyone know what the position of the magnet on the apv gear is in when they are open?
is it at 1 oclock when they are open?
OD

Moon Assad

Just did some research into it, ok, if the ECU compensates your good. The 5/6 injectors aren't programmed to come in till after the port opens. You might need a reflash to get were your going but I see the direction. I was thinking the same thing before we had the flash and those friggen crack heads pulled out in front of my car. That's why I was thinking 6 port housings and a slight 4 port intake manifold mod. I might lock mine open on the 09 but crawl, walk, run, you feel me. Your already at the run part. Try seeing what happens below 4500 first, look at your duty cycle on the working injectors. I also was thinking from the way my auto 4 port vs. MTs. I had A LOT more TQ from 1000 to 3000 then any MT I've been in. A MT with the blower seems flat compared at that RPM which is great for low RPM high speed cruzing. I think locking those ports open might change that and give your car a harder low to mid hit in power, you never know till you try.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

bingo brother.
If I can hit 300hp at 6K--i will be happy.
IF and I mean a big IF this looks like it is going to work out, then it would probably be advantages to remove the apvs entirely--not just lock them open.
Dont want to decrease flow velocity, so I need to watch that.
My big injectors are in the f/r secondary position (outside), i wonder if i will need to swap them.
Haltech for Christmas? Ho Ho Ho.
OD

Moon Assad

Hmmm, what if you just swap the injector plugs around or the injector wire pins in the harness at the ECU since the wires for 5/6 ports injectors are alot longer? Might just be the ticket but im sure youl get more outta tunning. Could be hit or miss, you never know, might be in the ball park or amazingly close but atleast you run less risk of leaning out. I wouldnt try leaving those barrel valves out, just port the **** out of them after you secure them. Removing those will leave a large void wich could maybe puddle the fuel and distort the airflow. If you think about getting a haltech let me know, maybe we can get a discount if we order 2 or more. Im sure I can hard wire one for an 08 in a 09 and make it work very well. When your ready im sure I might be able to make a few calls and see what kinda deals I might get through other channels as well.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

epic FAIL on keeping the apv's open all the time. Dont do it without tuning for it. Read my post on the other thread. Either the by pass couldnt handle it or the port timing is so that you get major blow back of combustion gases?
engine is ok but damn--wont try that again.
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had something funny to happen.
I made a slow test run with the apvs's locked open (i think). It felt promising. I only wound it up with 50% throttle and only to 6.5 K.
a/f's looked good, boost held steady, charge temps looked good. --OK
So i let off the throttle and shifted to a higher gear and was going to cruise ( iwas on an interstate entrace ramp).
I glanced at my charge temp gauge (temperure of the air post blower that is almost at the uim/lim junction) and dman!!!! It had jumped 150F to 250F!!!! My boost vacuum gauge was pegged at 30 of vacuum!
WTH!
I quickly switched my water meth back on and temps came right down, vacuum became normal in 5-10 seconds. Engine was fine---but WTH happened?
After scatching my head and not being able to find anything, I tried again at a much less load and the temps shot up AGAIN! But Only to 200F this time- it gained approx 100F degress in 2 seconds after I let off the gas. No Vacuum problems this time.
Something is going on. I had my w/m spraying during these runs. The spray was not on full since it is maf driven and I wasnt at full throttle.
No hiccups, no stumbles, felt good UNTIL i let up off the gas??
I am not doing this again until I find out WTH happened and know a cure.
I hooked my APV back up and this behavior went away.
I believe I am getting blowback some kinda bad?
ANYONE??
OD

Moon Assad

Hmm, thats not good. I guess its instant when your temps go up. Have you tryed all the valves open? Might be a rough idle. Ive seen - 30 vac on decel, you have more port open to pull more vac through. Watch out, you might be blowing hot gases and fuel back up into the intake.

Rote8

Maybe I should set the APV back to stock opening rpm, now that you mention it, that rpm is where my heat issues begin...

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

I have done some research in the last couple of days regarding water/air intercooler systems and ways to improve them. Basically it all boils down to the more fluid you have on your system the better. Increasing the flow will not do much because the fluid will travel to fast thru the heat exchanger thus not allowing sufficient time for the heat exchanger to extract heat from the fluid.

I read mostly about improving water/air systems on supercharged mustangs. Lots of bigger (more capacity) aftermarket fluid reservoir but most of them located where the OEM normally sits (inside the engine compartment). The problem is that engine/alternator/exhaust heat will eventually transfer back to the intercooler reservoir tank.

But how about placing the reservoir outside of our SC RX8. Well the problem is that any type of aftermarket reservoir will not fit on top of the bumper reinforcement bar and if placed under it will block the normal radiator airflow.

This morning I went to home depot to look for a plastic bottle that could fit on top of the bar. I walked thru the pvc aisle and BAM! I thought…how about placing a two-inch pvc pipe on top of the bumper reinforcement bar to increase the fluid volume along with the original reservoir?

I them purchased a piece of two-inch pvc pipe with two pvc elbows two pvc pipe end caps with treaded center hole and two nylon barbed elbows. While at it, I increased the surface area around the oem air filter box opening. I used some of the heat insulating matting/heat shield I had leftover in order to seal the gap between the opening enlarged opening and my insulated filter box. The top of my BHR aluminum radiator sits right below the gap.

I held the pvc pipe temporarily in place with zip ties since I have a Japanese Mazda RX8 bumper reinforcement bar on its way to replace the current US oem one. The Japanese bar is about 2.5 inches thinner towards the bottom thus allowing more airflow to the radiator.

Total pvc pipe fluid capacity was increased to ¾ of a gallon and as you can see it did not interfere with the opening behind the bar where air gets to the air filter opening. Also, the pvc pipe is not visible with the bumper on.

It was raining today so not a good day to test the new contraption. Tomorrow should be a better day according to the weather dude and in the lower 90s.

Enjoy the pixs.

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Two more.

Mawnee

hmmm..not sure what I think of this mod. It probably added ~10lbs to the nose of the car. And the thick PVC probably insulates pretty well so it could go either way. Do you have it pre or post intercooler? I think with the greater capacity with no added radiator it simply stabilizes the temp. It will take longer to raise the temp, but it will also take longer to lower it. So if you are generating more heat than the radiator can remove over a steady amount of time, not only will you still get hot, but it will also take longer to get those temps back down. For short bursts where you never exceed that point, I could see a benefit though.

I love seeing guys try stuff like this! Look forward to the results.