olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Moon==maybe the iat's are off? dont know?

HAS ANYONE LOOKED AT THE "KILLER CHILLER" SET UP?
Since we are the only ones using a/w intercooler, I have been looking at ways to make it better?
Ford folks really like this set up. It will reduce iat's by 50degrees. Even good on open track.
Read about it. I may want to do this--dont know yet. Aint cheap.
I am trying to get away from water meth.

Moon Assad

I was looking at those water coolers that make instant cold water the other day. I haven't looked up the 12 volt systems yet. I wounder if there's any possibilitys in something like that.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

its been around for a while and lots of good reports from the ford folks.
on a103 ambient day you see post blower temps of 65-75F.
Road course on a+90F ambient sees post blower temps at 100F max.
I like this set up because it is constant.
Yes the a/c has to be on, but that is not a problem per reports. Even during consistent high rpm use such as a road course.
You actually get rid of the intercooler heat exchanger, this opens up the front for more airflow to the radiator.
I may sell my water meth kit and get this?

look at this vid
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...iCgb7uiYXS5TmA

Rotr8

iTrader: (2)

This doesn't look terribly difficult to adapt to our kit. I like how compact it is as well. I would like the idea of free up the rad. I can see this being installed where the VFAD used to be...

Rotr8

iTrader: (2)

From the SVT forums - You are correct Jeff.. the a/c in our cars here in the desert are in extreme condition most of the year.. I got in to this with Mr Kincaid, our car was a 2008 GT500 that we installed 2 years ago. The customer returned because he needed to go to the dealer for a compressor so they told him to remove the cooler so we did it for him. After the dealer did their job we reinstalled the cooler and charged the system. Sitting in the shop it would cool down to about 60 in the cabin then after rolling down the road the air off the road would actually heat up the water in the heat exchanger thus putting a much harder load on the a/c system then the cabin temps would go to about 73* rolling down the road.. so we removed the heat exchanger and it was not much better. We ended up wasting 60 #s of Freon needless to say every time we called Kincaid he had some miracle story about one of these cars having 40-50 * temps and worked fine needless to say the car in question was in Florida where they do not have direct sun light and further more it was a plain GT not a GT500 then he said that stage 3 also did one here in phoenix that worked just fine … needless to say we followed up with them and found the owner and he was having the same issues. Then we checked the other 3 that we did for 03-04 cobras and they also had the same issues along with the lightnings. So my advise would be if you like to be cold and comfy in your SVT leave the a/c system alone. These wonder systems don’t work the only wonder about the system is how you were conned in to buying on to start with.. oh and just an FYI we also checked his new expansion valve set up as well.. and we had the same results as the orphas set up, I hope this is some good input from someone who actually has used these and would like to see you spend the money in a better area. If you want to decrease your IA2 temps use a small shot of nitrous it cheaper and cost much less not to mention it works and works well with out compromise


From what Ive read for an hour or so, it kinda 50/50 on people who support this and others that are haters, or who have stories that justify not supporting the setup,









.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

it does get confusing as some say its great and others seem to have problems.
guess nothing is always great?
It will be smart to do some due diligence.

california style

Sound familiar here anyone?

Red Devil

IIRC our AC disengages under the bold conditions above.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

it does turn off at WOT, but the residual coldness keeps it going ok--even on a road course by report.
I do have a concern about a lot of high rpm a/c compressor use? I dont know if the compressor can take that?
I am trying to learn about things and it sure gets confusing.
My gut tells me that this engine needs a post blower IAT to adjust the timing/spark as the temps climb---especially on track. However, in reading some about tuning a maf system some say that the maps can have an algorthym build in and that will work OK?
I do know on recips that are boosted--they all have or strongly recommend a post boost IAT for this very reason.
Gas is not getting any better, we still have a 10:1 compression engine that is boosted, temperatures are not getting any cooler and I dont want to blow another engine!
So I am struggling about what to do.
Do I continue to run the water meth---lots of advantages in doing so---and get my new tune through Cam who has already said that more timing needs to be pulled? (Yall wouldnt believe my timing now)
Do I try and go for a consistant low post blower IAT such as with the killer chiller, and not worry about w/m injection and its complexities? Plus a new tune?
With those two options a post boost IAT may not be needed because there will not be elavated IAT temps?
OR--do I go with a post blower iat and tune to it with a Cobb and then add w/m ( post iat sensor) for its help with octane/charge cooling?
Or the same with the killer chiller new tune and no w/m?
Its a dadgum dilema.
More than likely after all this interesting discussion and findings, i will probably stay with my w/m injection and just get a new Pettit tune.

Rote8

A/C off, 95 degrees out side, stop and go, w/red-lights; engine temps never go over 181.
A/C on, 95 degrees outside, stop and go, w/red-lights; engine temps goes to 208, before I turn off the A/C.

Engine temp measured from the OBD2 bus....

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Pretty typical.

I find the coolant temps will increase about 2° for each 1° increase in ambient temps above 95° ambient.
Also, with each 20% increase in relative humidity up to 80%, the temps will go down 1° from that reference.

california style

Had great fun on the airfield day yesterday.
It rained and I stuick on my no tread tyres for maximum slippery control fun....

Here is a nice foto taken by Colin Henry on the day:

Rote8

I am almost ready to say screw it and build my own cooling system, trash everything from the water pump forward...

Put in a monster 3 inch core radiator, cut the front radiator frame opening to fit?
Add fans and an electric water pump.

It would have to stay cool.

california style

This is a nice pic showing off the Pettit exhaust too:

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

nice picture man--looks like a ball!
i like the cut on that exhaust pipe.

You can cool this car with better fans and move the a/c condenser. It just blocks too much airflow.
Now in the desert---just do the best you can???

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

I seem to have the heat issue under control for daily driving......This car was not designed with the desert in mind.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

I can understand that.
I dont see how you guys live with it--guess its just an adjustment?

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Very Nicez!

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

My RB oil filter adapter came in and now I can monitor my oil temps after the oil coolers instead of my last sensor location at the oil pan.

The same goes with my coolant temp sensor. It is now located in the lower radiator hose registering coolant temps before entering the engine. Now I can monitor before ECT and OBDII ECT at the same time.

Also, I shaved 1.5 inches of the bottom of my front bumper crash bar thus allowing more direct air into the radiator.

Next track day Jun 25th at Sebring. It will be hotter than last month...we shall see.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Good plan.
I predict that your oil temp delta will be about 25 degreesF and youre engine coolant will be about the same.
I know the engine coolant only picks up about 10-15 degrees (F) as it passes the exhaust port.
It would be interesting to compare the delta of your secondary radiator to the primary?

Totally agree in opening the air dam area more, it will also help to cut the front support beam a little, to place the Pettit a/w coolers in front of the front support beam ( away from the radiator) and believe it or not--to overdrive the water pump a little. (Getting ready for that discussion lol!)

dondo

iTrader: (7)

What can you guys tell me about the bypass valve? I have the metal one but believe I'm still having issues with it functioning properly. I've tried the stock stiff spring and no spring and it's about the same; I'd like to try a lighter spring but can't find one. Do we know the model number of that part or anything? Or has anyone tried another one and had success?

Thanks!

Rote8

From what I have been told;
The spring is only for drops/stumbles below normal idle speed after a boost load, increase the spring tension till the rpm drop no longer occurs after throttle release.


Cam said we did not need a spring.

Also, is the pressure/boost side connected to the "side" or "bottom" of your bypass valve?
(Does boost seal against the side, or the bottom of the bypass valve piston)

My next bypass valve is here

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

what kind of problems are you having?
The valves are not maintenance free-they do need cleaning from time to time?
I have bee running no spring?

I have found that the short air intake we have is very sensitive to its position. If it is angled in any way it can mess it up. Make sure it is straight as possible. I also get better performance with the dry filter (AEM) and a no open ended type. I do not run a screen.
I think I have found a trumpet type horn that will fit inside the filter?

My group of folks are at Road Atlanta with Nasa this w/e. I visited yesterday. 3 guys not have the rx7 las builds and they are wicked car --running mid to low 1:30's at RA with less than 375 rwhp!
OD

dondo

iTrader: (7)

that's what's happening to me; every time you lift throttle and rpms drop, the car stalls. looking at my datalogs it seems the air is not recirculating and it getting shoved back out the maf and disturbing it or something. this was with the stock spring which is very strong.

now i took the spring out (i have been in here a million times so it's still clean/lubed) and it still happens so i'm looking for a lighter spring to reduce the stalls or a better valve altogether.

i have the vac line hooked up to the bottom nipple so that boost seals it and vac opens but i suspect vac is not strong enough to open it with the stock spring inside.

why are you switching to that valve and should it work better? what's the twisty top do?

i don't have the stock pettit air intake. i have a system that curves back under the bumper cover like phil's 8. i dont even have the stock one to try it either..

Moon Assad

Threadjack, I found this, think ill trade in my 8 for it.