olddragger

iTrader: (3)

that will be gone before you know it.
Check the Ga rx8 club for their mvp event at RA (end of November)--i am driving up just to visit--wanna come along?

slvrstreak

iTrader: (3)

i may do that...may even drive
im not going to be able to go to RA now

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

HUH? That is homecoming---you dont have a choice

HEY EVERYONE--DID YALL KNOW THAT THE SPARKPLUG HEAT RANGE CAN CHANGE OVER TIME?!!

I never knew that--but it is something I will not forget.
Damn.
Basic rule is if you EVER have misfires ( running FI on this engine) change the plugs right then.
OD

skc

Thanks for that tip. I will check mine out. I had a bad batch of fuel at my last fill and caused some misfires. The oil got really dirty and I have changed it.

I still get the odd misfire. My current spark plug was meant for the track so I will also replace it with the street version as well.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

anyone else other than the Pettit God--Juan --using the msd 8247 ignition coils?
I am waiting on one coil that back ordered. Mine will go on when I get it.
I like the specification that it only needs a dwell time of 3 ms.

Steve Kan will be in Atlanta the 1st or 2nd week of November and it's a tuning we will go.
I have never tuned on a dyno--any advice? Should I install my colder sparkplugs for it?

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

-OEM plugs and gaped to .028~.030
-Fresh engine oil
-Clean MAF sensor
-Have a intake screen in case of erratic MAF reading (not sure if you use one but I do all the time)
-Brand name 93 octane fuel (half tank) mixed with 2 or 3 gallons of Sunoco race gas just to make up for the ethanol.
-Don't forget to fuse reset and pedal dance after fuel up and drive the car for about 5 miles after that.
-Don't forget the ProteK mixed for normal driving ratio
-Don't tune with water/meth on (leave it for safety purposes only).
-I believe you will have to reset your tune to OEM or you will run the risk of bricking your ECU
-Don't rush yourself, make sure the car is center on rollers and strapped correctly.
-No need to go over 8.5k rpm

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Juan
I think Steve Kan has access to to all in the ecu with the Pro tuner.
I dont run a screen--but I take it I should? I have a longer pipe from the maf pipe to the filter than some of you and my idle and all have been fine? But installing one is np.
I dont have access to race gas now but I can add 2 gals of tolulene--that should help?
Fuse reset and pedal dance I had not though of. Thanks.
I will take him some EFI logs of mine--cant hurt.
My tune seems compatible with a couple of other Pettit tunes--except the ignition timing. He may not have to change much?
yep no water meth on during this.
the shop i will be at has been doing dynos on rotaries for a LONG time--its a separate building with dyno only in it--nice set up.
disconnected my secondary radiator--water is getting too cool and it needs to warm up some--my barrel type thermostat does work better than the bypass type. I dont think its going to get hot or anything.
I do wish I had a post blower IAT--MM and others helped me out in what to use--I just havent done it.

Galen Darkmoon

OMG
Picked up our baby today, put in steve kans base flash and started it up, the engine hunted for a bit and settled right down at 750. The new water pump knocked 10 degrees right off the engine temp at hiway speeds. Opened it up a lil after a few drive cycles and I'm frakking hooked after giving it just a lil gas, can't wait for the specific tune. Paying a master mazda rotary tech to do the install was well worth my money, the install looks like fresh from the factory. The mech and his dad "who wrenched for a rotary race team " are highly impressed with ya'lls knowledge. A big thx to everyone here.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

YaHooooooo! Welcome to the insanity!
I didnt know Steve had a base tune for the supercharger?
DO resist going into much boost untuned.
i didnt know we could idle that low
I wish I could see the grin on your face.
OD

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

I guess I don't know how to use the search button properly, but I have been looking for the belt numbers needed for the Pettit s/c. I am getting ready to go to Seven Stock and figured I had better take a set of belts and have forgotten which belts I need. I guess it's just old age.

Rote8

Large bottom pulley - Gatorback, Poly-V, Serpentine, 5-Rib, 33.50 in.
Small bottom pulley - Gatorback, Poly-V, Serpentine, 5-Rib, 32.50 in.

I carry two spares....
They swap with the alternator belt in an emergency.

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

Thank you for your help............I will not forget again.

Galen Darkmoon

My bad, I did a log to send to Steve and the car idles at 810 in neutral about 790 in gear "looked like 750 to me on the dash" and no never put much of a foot in it, just tad.
He sent back a note to log a couple hard pulls so he can see the afr, but STOP if I heard any knocking "LOL" Ya can guess how long I dwelt on that thought. I'm cruising to dallas wed morning. Saturday is track day.

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

OK, here we go. I think I know what the problem is but I need confirmation from ya’lls truly.

I’m have been getting code DTC P0171 System Too Lean Bank 1 for about a month and is starting to annoy the crap out of me.

Looked at many posts and here is what I have done and what I’m running.

-Full Tank of Gas
-Fuel Pump Taken Apart and Cleaned 10k Ago
-Running a Fuel Pressure Gauge (61~64 psi)
-Engine Rebuilt 10k Ago
-All Intake Gaskets Coated with Hylomar
-All Vacuum Lines with Zip-Ties
-Running a Vacuum/Boost Gauge (vacuum reading has stayed the same)
-NGKs Plugs with 9k (just took them out and cleaned) (they looked good)
-MSD Coils and MSD Wires
-Cleaned Eccentric Shaft Sensor
-Cleaned MAF Sensor (yes inside and out)
-Reset Fuse and Brake Pedal Dance
-Logged a Couple of Hard Pulls (AFRs 11.90~12.10)
-Running a Straight Pipe with No Cat for the past 35k and Never Had This Code Before
-Removed the Front O2 Sensor Cleaned and Reinstalled

Did a Road Race last month and a Dyno session last weekend with no problems.

I get the code soon after I clear it and usually within the first few minutes after cranking the engine.

The only thing I have noticed is that it idle dance within the first 30 seconds and normal after that.

So the answer is __________________.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

youre a/f logs are unchanged--right? wait a minute lowest is 11.9?
what does your wideband say? is it comparable? If not then its time for a new o2 sensor?
If it is then you need to find out what range the tuner has set in the maps so you can compare target to read?
no leaks and fuel pressure is good--so that only leaves o2 sensor or fuel injector?

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

P2 and Aux injectors are fairly new (2009 model) and all were tested 10K ago. Reinstalled with new top/bottom O-rings.

Wideband is comparable too.

Anyone else?

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

come to think of it it could only be two things ( not an o2 sensor).
Its either a vacuum leak or a fuel injector--trims are real high?
leaning toward fuel injector--new or not
run some bk 44 through it and see?
you got this when the weather got cooler?

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

What are your LTFTs?
MAF got disturbed.

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Here you go.

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

I don't think so (both) and temps were in the low 80s yesterday. Got the code three times by just clearing and starting again within few minutes just at idle.

Leaning towards front O2 sensor and suggested by Cam when he rebuilt the engine. O2 is taking a beating from boosted/racing.

Here are my O2 choices.

OEM from Mazdamotorsports @ $225

NGK part number 25673 direct connector fit @ $125

Denso part number 234-4349 direct connector fit @ $90

Moon Assad

Check for vac leaks with a can of throttle body cleaner. Don't forget about the rear runner were the Pettit casting bolts to the factory lower intake.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

no trims--but dtc of too lean--hmmm
may be a o2 sensor----????
How does the computer determine a too lean condition--its from the feedback of the front o2 sensor basically speaking--right?
You dont have a rear o2 sensor--right?
You are only showing a 293 grams/sec at 6.9K rpms and a/f of 12?
I was thinking your g/sec would be higher and the a/f's would be in the 11's by then?
I have been wondering if my front o2 sensor may need to be replaced before tuning--it does have 83K miles on it. Seems to be working ok.
You sure dont have much noise in your EFI graphs. Smooth lines. How did you do that?

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

FM or maybe cuz I run a screen before the MAF sensor.

hoss -05

iTrader: (4)

LOL lets blame it on FM!

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Need to see STFT also.
Since you keep resetting the PCM, the LTFT is going away.