Pettit Super Charger Owners
10-11-2011, 08:23 PM
#9176
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we idle at 1200 rpm.
But, a couple of things.
1st check that your bypass valve is working ok.
2nd-- how close to the blower is your TB? Then how close is the TB from the MAF?
3nd how long a straight tube from your a/a intercooler to the maf?
superchargers can have a " flow back boost wave" of sorts that can influence the maf during deceleration. So the distances of the above can be something to look at.
You also may want to try a screen in front of the maf--that has helped some people.
But--yes some of us have had that problem. For us it usually is related to how the system is set up in front of the maf . Now others may have had something else?
Of course all this is taking for granted that there is no vacuum leaks anywhere.
But, a couple of things.
1st check that your bypass valve is working ok.
2nd-- how close to the blower is your TB? Then how close is the TB from the MAF?
3nd how long a straight tube from your a/a intercooler to the maf?
superchargers can have a " flow back boost wave" of sorts that can influence the maf during deceleration. So the distances of the above can be something to look at.
You also may want to try a screen in front of the maf--that has helped some people.
But--yes some of us have had that problem. For us it usually is related to how the system is set up in front of the maf . Now others may have had something else?
Of course all this is taking for granted that there is no vacuum leaks anywhere.
10-12-2011, 01:34 AM
#9178
rev it up
we idle at 1200 rpm.
But, a couple of things.
1st check that your bypass valve is working ok.
2nd-- how close to the blower is your TB? Then how close is the TB from the MAF?
3nd how long a straight tube from your a/a intercooler to the maf?
superchargers can have a " flow back boost wave" of sorts that can influence the maf during deceleration. So the distances of the above can be something to look at.
You also may want to try a screen in front of the maf--that has helped some people.
But--yes some of us have had that problem. For us it usually is related to how the system is set up in front of the maf . Now others may have had something else?
Of course all this is taking for granted that there is no vacuum leaks anywhere.
But, a couple of things.
1st check that your bypass valve is working ok.
2nd-- how close to the blower is your TB? Then how close is the TB from the MAF?
3nd how long a straight tube from your a/a intercooler to the maf?
superchargers can have a " flow back boost wave" of sorts that can influence the maf during deceleration. So the distances of the above can be something to look at.
You also may want to try a screen in front of the maf--that has helped some people.
But--yes some of us have had that problem. For us it usually is related to how the system is set up in front of the maf . Now others may have had something else?
Of course all this is taking for granted that there is no vacuum leaks anywhere.
I will question my tuner on some of the other issues raised here. The MAF screen could be a solution and the one in this link looks good: http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...w+Straightener
10-12-2011, 03:02 AM
#9179
Registered
Does anyone have any issues with idle. My car runs perfectly with the Hymee system however, it will not hold idle when the revs drop from above 2000rpm causing the car to stall. My solution is to blip the throttle as it falls below 2000rpm and then it holds and idle a normal.
The system in the Hymee kit is the same except the blower is 2.1L.
The car has been tuned using HKS FCon and unfortunately it does not have idle control.
The other option is to use Pro tuner to set the idle.
Would love to hear if any of the Pettit kits are having similar issues and your ways of dealing with this issue.
The system in the Hymee kit is the same except the blower is 2.1L.
The car has been tuned using HKS FCon and unfortunately it does not have idle control.
The other option is to use Pro tuner to set the idle.
Would love to hear if any of the Pettit kits are having similar issues and your ways of dealing with this issue.
I made the air fuel mix at idle slightly rich, and can idle at 1050 to 1100...
10-12-2011, 09:21 AM
#9181
So when you set your idle at 1000-1100 rpm instead of at 850-900 rpm, it would solve this issue permanently? Would set the idle AFR richer solve this issue (at same idle rpm around 850-900 rpm)? What is your recommendation? My AFR at idle right now is around 10.8 to 11.2.
Thanks.
10-12-2011, 09:32 AM
#9182
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Can you get to the idle PID settings with your ECU/maps?
It sounds like the idle control needs a longer delay before engaging after over-run, and probably a bit higher base idle timing to catch the engine before the PID loop kicks in.
It sounds like the idle control needs a longer delay before engaging after over-run, and probably a bit higher base idle timing to catch the engine before the PID loop kicks in.
10-12-2011, 09:44 AM
#9183
If anyone else have idea of what is going on with my issue, please give me suggestion so I have more idea on what is causing this issue. Thanks for your help.
10-14-2011, 09:23 PM
#9186
I don't remember
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We don't even take the 8 out on the streets when there is rain.
The misses came off the paddock when the rain started once, a mazda speed3 , an nsx, and a vette went into the tire wall. especially with r-compound slicks on ours.
But you go dude.
The misses came off the paddock when the rain started once, a mazda speed3 , an nsx, and a vette went into the tire wall. especially with r-compound slicks on ours.
But you go dude.
10-16-2011, 07:00 PM
#9188
well just had a visit from the 2nd Pettit car now in Ga. Its jesups(sic) car that slvstreak purchased. Man --talk about a clean, professional looking install and built car. Its really sweet, beautiful car. Mine looks like a redneck sawzilled up beater car next to it. Sigh.....
I did a efi dude log and his timing is only at 8-9 degrees at 318 g/sec and load of about 160
( 8.2 k rpm). DAMN--mine is 17 and advancing to 19!
I REALLY need a tune and I am staying out of the throttle until I get one.
I did a efi dude log and his timing is only at 8-9 degrees at 318 g/sec and load of about 160
( 8.2 k rpm). DAMN--mine is 17 and advancing to 19!
I REALLY need a tune and I am staying out of the throttle until I get one.
10-17-2011, 11:05 AM
#9191
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well just had a visit from the 2nd Pettit car now in Ga. Its jesups(sic) car that slvstreak purchased. Man --talk about a clean, professional looking install and built car. Its really sweet, beautiful car. Mine looks like a redneck sawzilled up beater car next to it. Sigh.....
I did a efi dude log and his timing is only at 8-9 degrees at 318 g/sec and load of about 160
( 8.2 k rpm). DAMN--mine is 17 and advancing to 19!
I REALLY need a tune and I am staying out of the throttle until I get one.
I did a efi dude log and his timing is only at 8-9 degrees at 318 g/sec and load of about 160
( 8.2 k rpm). DAMN--mine is 17 and advancing to 19!
I REALLY need a tune and I am staying out of the throttle until I get one.
10-18-2011, 07:34 AM
#9194
Registered
well just had a visit from the 2nd Pettit car now in Ga. Its jesups(sic) car that slvstreak purchased. Man --talk about a clean, professional looking install and built car. Its really sweet, beautiful car. Mine looks like a redneck sawzilled up beater car next to it. Sigh.....
I did a efi dude log and his timing is only at 8-9 degrees at 318 g/sec and load of about 160
( 8.2 k rpm). DAMN--mine is 17 and advancing to 19!
I REALLY need a tune and I am staying out of the throttle until I get one.
I did a efi dude log and his timing is only at 8-9 degrees at 318 g/sec and load of about 160
( 8.2 k rpm). DAMN--mine is 17 and advancing to 19!
I REALLY need a tune and I am staying out of the throttle until I get one.
My timing is clamped at 12 degrees advance for any load over a 70%.
I am running about 12-12.4 to 1 for the A/F at those loads and timing.
I tuned leaner and used less advance. (my spark plug tips are a perfect shade of tan)
10-18-2011, 08:29 AM
#9195
Its a nice tune. Very safe looking from what I know.
The power delivery is different than mind. Levi's ( sorry jsup!) car builds gradually, where as mine is more "instant" in the lower rpms. At peak, I think they are both about the same. Now of course my gearing is different since I have the S2 trans, but I dont think that is it.
Our A/F's look about the same and out ltft's look about the same. I was surprised to find his timing that low.
Both of ours crank the same, idle the same, i think his runs a little hotter than mine, but I have more cooling modifications?
l Using the oem plugs gapped at 30--gets me a good color ( street driving only) but as I understand you really cant go by that in a rotary engine. There is not any signs on the plug that it is getting to hot. I change to colder densos for the track.
The power delivery is different than mind. Levi's ( sorry jsup!) car builds gradually, where as mine is more "instant" in the lower rpms. At peak, I think they are both about the same. Now of course my gearing is different since I have the S2 trans, but I dont think that is it.
Our A/F's look about the same and out ltft's look about the same. I was surprised to find his timing that low.
Both of ours crank the same, idle the same, i think his runs a little hotter than mine, but I have more cooling modifications?
l Using the oem plugs gapped at 30--gets me a good color ( street driving only) but as I understand you really cant go by that in a rotary engine. There is not any signs on the plug that it is getting to hot. I change to colder densos for the track.
10-18-2011, 09:42 AM
#9196
may make the swap to the Series 2 trans eventually
4th to 5th is worlds different and i like the spacing that the S2 trans has in the short shifter...wider gate
i usually run around 185 degrees but it jumps up pretty quick ~195degrees in the heat in traffic
the other day at the track temps jumped up to 220 (this was before any runs just idling with A/C on) temps read 185 til I put it in gear and then they jumped up
the coolant gauge lags and spazes out sometimes and supposedly reads ~20degrees cooler than actual temps according to the logs
Havent been able to figure out why Denny's power delivery is slightly quicker than mine.
not that i mind...its not a real "noticable" difference and the ending power is still strong
what would you say, 1.5 sec difference?
We need to take some logs on my Cobb next time for more data...STFT, etc
4th to 5th is worlds different and i like the spacing that the S2 trans has in the short shifter...wider gate
i usually run around 185 degrees but it jumps up pretty quick ~195degrees in the heat in traffic
the other day at the track temps jumped up to 220 (this was before any runs just idling with A/C on) temps read 185 til I put it in gear and then they jumped up
the coolant gauge lags and spazes out sometimes and supposedly reads ~20degrees cooler than actual temps according to the logs
Havent been able to figure out why Denny's power delivery is slightly quicker than mine.
not that i mind...its not a real "noticable" difference and the ending power is still strong
what would you say, 1.5 sec difference?
We need to take some logs on my Cobb next time for more data...STFT, etc
Last edited by slvrstreak; 10-18-2011 at 09:44 AM.
10-18-2011, 11:15 AM
#9197
oh for sure. I like your powerband. After 5-6K i couldnt tell any difference? It would be interesting and fun to further analyse. I may even could be able to tell if my LIM work or bored TB has really made any difference? I am thinking that may be part of it?- Dont really know? Advancing timing doesnt really give the rotary engine a lot more power from what I understand. Interesting.
On the temp thing--as long as you never get of 210 on the engine coolant you are fine.
For others that are reading--SS is reading engine coolant temps from the RB heater hose site.
That coolant is about 10F cooler than what the obd11 sensor will see. The heater hose coolant supply never sees the exhaust side of the engine and so it will be cooler.
So 210F in his car is about 220F at the obd2 site.
cant wait to see this beautity at road Atlanta!
On the temp thing--as long as you never get of 210 on the engine coolant you are fine.
For others that are reading--SS is reading engine coolant temps from the RB heater hose site.
That coolant is about 10F cooler than what the obd11 sensor will see. The heater hose coolant supply never sees the exhaust side of the engine and so it will be cooler.
So 210F in his car is about 220F at the obd2 site.
cant wait to see this beautity at road Atlanta!
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