Not sure wat bc u have, but if there is a more reliable one available, i would invest in it... drop another renesis in there and go again. Dont give up. A boost controller can break on a 20b setup or any engine. Just a freak mishap

 

Well this what i think makes a good builder. U dont know unless you try , fail make the proper adjustments for improvement and then try again.

Umm possible upper intake manifold in the works.. maybe??

 

We try and break our products all the time in our test facility. If you don't break anything, your not trying hard enough to find the weak link. My hats off to you guys.

 

yeah - one with a big boost relief valve built in .

 

Why? The manifold didn't break.

The exact same thing. Maybe more damage to the housing, not that it would have mattered.

Actually, the MAF might have covered t to some extent. There wouldn't have been enough fuel way before the MAF went out of range. We were already at the end of the injection system when we still had 100 g/sec left on the MAF on the previous dyno session.

 

It's all in the planning...but difficult to plan for a failure like that......

Not the first engine on here that died from a boost controller issue

 

The only way to "plan" for a failure of that sort is a pop-off valve (which nobody but a few OEMs use) and WAY more injector available than might be practical.

 

True...but if they were running out of fuel at 400g/s.....bigger injectors would have been good

 

So...Elliot made me a deal i couldnt refuse....ill put the 20B on hold for awhile...gives me time to learn how to weld anyhow

As E and Nick kno...we're going big.

Thanks for the support fellas.

ps:
f*ck boost controllers.

 

how about one of these :

Turbo Fuse


Product Information


Ok, so the GFB Turbo Fuse is not technically a boost controller, even though it's in the boost controller section. It does however have a very important place as part of a boost control system, so read on!

“Bang for your buck” is not always a good thing...

When driving your turbo car, the last thing you want to hear is a BANG! Unfortunately, the very nature of modifying cars to make them go faster means the chance of blowing the engine increases. Alter the boost-control system or use cheap components and the chances are even higher.

The new GFB Turbo Fuse is an important safety measure against such a disaster. As its name suggests, it offers reliable and effective protection for your turbocharged engine against over-boosting. Simple to install, it can be fitted to any turbo car with an existing blow-off or bypass valve in less than a minute.

How Does It Work?

The Turbo Fuse works with the blow-off/bypass valve to relieve excessive boost pressure when triggered. It does this by shutting off manifold pressure to the top of the blow-off/bypass valve, which will subsequently blow open and relieve the boost pressure.

The Turbo Fuse operates in only two states - either on or off. Unlike ineffective pop-off valves of a bygone era, which simply comprised of a spring-loaded valve, the Turbo Fuse does NOT slowly creep open as boost exceeds the trip-point. The response is instant and complete.

Who should use a Turbo Fuse?

A Turbo Fuse can help protect ANY turbo engine. Over-boosting can occur as a result of a sticking wastegate, popped or split wastegate hose, a faulty boost controller, or even an accidental incorrect boost adjustment. Of course, an over-boost will invariably occur during the times when you shouldn’t be watching a boost gauge. Even worse, a large over-boost can destroy an engine in less time than it takes to read this sentence.

My car has a factory boost cut anyway - why do I need a Turbo Fuse?

Most turbo cars feature an electronic fuel cut that performs a task similar to the Turbo Fuse. However, in the world of modified turbo cars, it is common practice to bypass or disable this feature (through the use of a “fuel-cut defender” or similar product) in order to intentionally increase boost for better performance. In this case, the engine is left unprotected.

In addition, anyone who has unexpectedly hit the factory fuel cut will know that it can catch you by surprise. The engine loses all power, which can be merely annoying or downright dangerous (when overtaking for example). The Turbo Fuse is not as aggressive in cutting the engine power; it is more like hitting a “soft” limiter, which is much safer if it is unexpectedly triggered


http://www.nzperformance.co.nz/store.../prod_501.html

 

The 'turbo fuse' may save your engine but consequently smoke your turbo due to over spinning? Apparently the lesser of two evils...

 

SO the boost controller failed and the engine got to 26psi and blew up?

 

I would imagine that a turbo would last longer overspinning than an engine that ran lean .... perhaps .

 

Since the turbo wouldn't be under load if the pop-off blew, there would be no negative effect from high speeds.
Turbine pressure would drop to nearly nothing almost immediately, de-spooling it anyway.

 

How would the "turbo fuse" be adjusted to now blow off to early or at a lower PSI then you wanted. It sais spring operated, would it be different springs like a wastegate?

 

what was the name of the boost controller that failed.

 

It looks like it has an adjuster at the top . You would just wind it up until it started poping off at BC setting then wind it in a bit i guess .

 

Easier way would be a vacuum chamber on a solenoid, hooked up to the blow-off valve.
Just have it dump whenever the pressure exceeds a preset threshold.
Set it up fail-safe (normally open) and you are good to go.

 

Probably not the right word choice there .

 

Sure it is.
No physical engineering needed and no new parts in the air path. No new valve design, strange intake path work, etc.

You take the pre-existing BOV, the pre-existing vacuum reservoir (brake power servo), a pre-existing solenoid (VFAD) and just hook it all together with a $10 Hobbs switch.

 

Sounds like you have this on your car mm, is there a rightup or diy, this sounds like a great solution!!!!!

 

it seems to me it would make more sense to have a safety control scheme where the ignition supply voltage is disengaged whenever the boost exceeds a set limit, would be fairly easy to setup and you could have it so that the ignition key has to be turned off and engine restarted to reset it.

 

That might work on a dyno, but its not a great idea on the road!

 

why do you say that ?

 

Looks like i will be purchasing a GT35 hybrid from Turblown for my build in the next day or two. Basically it will be used in place of the esmeril turbo. I just need to put the turbo on and get the car back together along with installing the meth injection, and i am ready for the trip to TX for a tune. Curious to see what this style of turbo will do on my car without the Turblown manifold. I am also going to go with the smaller A/R then what was used in this thread.