I would highly recommend you go with a larger wheel while you have the opportunity but would not go as big as the 60-1 or GT35 because to get the most from those you will need to make other upgrades and spend extra money. And the 20g is not enough of an upgrade to make it worthwhile.
So ....... To4e 50trim , 57trim or 60trim . They are ,i believe, the ideal upgrades for the stock kit and will be well inside their efficiency ranges at the 260-280whp leavels you are aiming for .

 

Which is why you really SHOULD upgrade if you want to track the car . The stock Greddy will be working too hard at the power level you want .

 

Thanks for the info. He also mentioned that it was obvious this turbo saw excessive EGT's due to the amount of heat damage and he said it was obvious the previous owner of this turbo did not use a turbo timer. He told me that proper cool down is critical on any turbo that is solely oil cooled.

I wish I could get a history from the original owner but he did not offer much info.

 

Good to keep in mind... I don't often bag the **** out of my car but I am going to start letting it idle before shutdown longer.

 

Watch out for Long lead times on a trim upgrade. I would guess the time line has gone critical with Raul also being out of the picture as well. You can always do a crazy turbo at another time and get Exactly what you want then. + that would give you time to do other required things when going for big power.

 

Yeah I planned on running a turbo timer anyway, I always have on past cars.

 

I do have a turbo timer but for around town driving i don't use it . It's only when thrashing it that it's needed .

 

So reuse stock LIM to engine gasket or not? I am thinking it should be replaced seeing how if it did leak I would need to pull the motor to replace it.

 

I would go for renewal...?

Having said that if the original looks OK??..they are not cheap.

9K, Hopefully others who have done the job before will know, PM RotaryResurection, and or Pineapple Racing??

 

Thanks Ash, I will probably just got new I think.

Guys,

Help me find a quality large paper air filter that has a 6" diameter inlet.

Anyone know if these AEM's are worth a ****?

This one has a 6" inlet and is 8" long.

 

6" inlet , wow !!!! looks like smaller ....

Forgot to mention earlier - ask your turbo guy about clipping the turbine .

 

Hehe. I'm a Texan, what did you expect

 

Oh, and I cannot find my AEM screens You guys think making some would be the best bet? Think I can find screen sufficient locally?

 

If the gasket came off without tearing the rubber coating you likely will be OK...I've never had one come off without some defect or another....so my vote would be to replace it

If you are stuck PM me about the screens...........

 

Found five different intake filters with a 6" flange. I emailed them to you.

I dont see why a guy could not make some screens fairly easy himself with some parts from the local hardware store.

 

^ Got them, thanks. I am going to try and take the bumper off soon and get some measurements to see what will fit and how I can situate it. But either way I think I will have to block flow to the rad with the filter and inter cooler to some degree. I am glad I have the secondary rad installed.


has anyone ever cleaned their inter-cooler (the inside) before? I read up on it a bit and there are many theories on ways to do it but nothing concrete. I am thinking of just using simple green and hot water.

 

what ever you use make sure it does not oxidize with Al!!!

 

Ive heard several ways, from simply green to gasoline... lol, the boost poet strikes.

 

Yeah, I wonder if simple green is okay? How do I know if it oxidizes with aluminum? I'm a little scared to use a flammable substance.

 

You could get a waste chunk of AL and put it in a cup of Simple green over night and inspect it after 24hrs.... I think that should be plenty of time to initiate any chemical reaction... epecially with Al

 

Good idea.

 

I cleaned mine with water and simply green. That was like 4 months ago. Nothing bad to report here.

 

Why dont you just bring it in to a rad shop and have them give it a hot bath. I bet they would charge you less then $10 to get it done and you know the job will be done correctly.

 

That is a good idea too.

 

I actually called around and some said they would do it for $30.00 and two shops said they do not recommend cleaning it, but just to replace it if it dirty and I actually read on some diesel forums that they recommend just replacing them since they are so hard to get absolutely clean.