Side note: I like where he has that engine hoist point at. I bent my front brake line using the rear hoist point.

 

its not listed, and I know

 

They have everything in house

they can also flow injectors

 

I found all those couplers for $200 ish online, just an fyi...

 

I am hoping with the ported motor and upgrade turbo I will be able to hit 280-290WHP all day long.

It arrived at my office this morning

Yeah I noticed that, he also sent me some parts that I did not send to him so i will have an extra thermostat housing and engine mounts if anyone needs them.

That's awesome, not a lot of shops can afford a $20,000.00 turbo balancing machine.

Did the part numbers I sent help?

 

That hoist "loop" is from an FC. standard equipment in my tool box. :D

 

Thinking it should be easy peasy lemon squeezy.......


are there any documented dyno numbers with an upgraded GReddy and street porting

I mean we've seen near 280 on a stock GReddy no?

 

I need new engine mounts I think, it's hard to say. They haven't collapsed yet but they also don't seem to work that well.

Yep sure did!

 

Seems like a wise investment!

 

Not actually - how many greddy dynos have you seen over 260 ? Yours might be more because of a certain mod of which we will not speak. LOL

The large BNR 60-1's have even struggled to break 280. But sure - it can be done .



RWD+LSD knows what it will take......

 

You can have this one man, I can't use that position to put the motor back in unless I want to put the UIM and stuff back on with the engine in the car. i plan on putting everything back on the motor while it is out.

 

I think that's what I would do also, you don't realize how much easier it is going to be to install the turbo outside of the engine. I'd say about 40-60% of the total time of my install was F**king around with the engine height with my 2 ton jack to get the manifold/turbo/downpipe all properly installed and the nuts/bolts torqued on. Not to mention this will pretty well completely eliminate any chance of an exhaust leak from uneven torque's on your e-manifold or downpipe and you won't have to go and buy crazy, skinny ratchet extensions.


Did you ever find a place to use a lift and raise the engine into the car or are u going in through the top? Will the engine fit into place from the top with the downpipe bolted up?

 

Yeah, removing everything with the engine out was breeze. Now hopefully I labeled everything correctly and can put it all back together properly

I am still debating on whether or not to put a new clutch in. mine has 30k on it and looks pretty good but it's such a hassle to replace with the engine in the car.

I am putting it back through the top, it should be pretty easy.

 

It should the only issue I ran into was mating it with the transmission. Some guys say to buy a long bolt as a guide but I felt that would put to much pressure on the impeller shaft ( if its off by a bit and you are forcing it to mate using a bolt). In any event it took some time but we finally got it mated.

Starting it was a whole other issue lol.

 

Ahh yes the unspeakable lol


I'm still giving myself 270 at the very most I guess, Once I get the BC installed I will do some serious logging and potentially even splurge for some dyno time and get some factual numbers. But right now seeing 310g/s at 9psi peak seems promising.... along with the butt dyno. As soon as my new sticky tires are broken in I plan to hit the drag strip again (I know I know but that is the only track here other than auto x events) and see how much improvement I have in the trap speed/time.

 

yeah I am going to try the guide bolt method I think. Hopefully I get lucky though, it's one of those things, from what I have been told sometimes it just lines right up and is easy.

I have specific start-up and break in instructions from pineapple that I have to follow or risk my warranty.

 

Pics or it didn't happen

 

Missed this post. What do you mean?

I have been reading a bunch lately and honestly I have come to the conclusion that dyno numbers amongst different 8's from all over the place don't mean **** when you look at all the variables.

One interesting article is here:

http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_artic...lieve-one.aspx

 

Trust the dyno the day you are on it and the gain you make that day. This of course assumes the dyno you are using is in proper working order.

 

Strictly speaking of stock T618Z's...... for the 260 tops comment anyway

 

Yeah, the article above touches on just that. Most smaller shops rarely have their machines calibrated on a regular basis.

 

Cool, glad it helped.


Ahhhhh, ok.

 

Go this tonight 3.5"

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6101156253/

 

Yeah 260 is the Greddy tapped right out - past that and you are into hair drier territory as MM has been saying .

I can't recall any other dynos for upgraded turbos (other than mine) that were not BNR 60-1s .

At 280 yours looks like will be right on the choke line - might be worth looking at keeping the aux ports closed to maximise turbo efficiency .

 

I plan on getting on the dyno after break in and tuning is done. I am also going to get one of the local SARX peeps who just got a new motor to get on the dyno after hers in broke in.