I dunno, why he stopped there, just didn't wanna push it I guess. That was fine with me, I could care less about dyno numbers, most of them are meaningless anyway. I once saw an 1100HP Supra get trounced by a 750HP Supra and that pretty much taught me to not get caught up on dyno figures. I am curious what i will run in the 1/4 mile once I get the boost controller installed and can go to 10psi. I am running the Denso race plugs right now but I need take the RX7's race Denso's out of the leading and install trailings there.

 

what leading timing and split did you end up with at wot above 6K
a/f's a little rich like mine?
grams per sec at what temp or maf voltage?

 

I'll have to check on the timing with Steve, he did say it was off out of whack. The AFR's are WOT are tuned on the rich side but still around 11 from what i can see. It is nice and cool out and I just took Shadycrew for a ride and she was running very well. My boost gauge crapped out and my replacement (screw PLX!) is not working either so right now I have no boost gauge but since I have not touched it, it should still be at 5-6psi up until it falls off. At times it feels stronger so maybe it is intermittent. But for right now I am not flooring it until I get my boost gauge in and the EBC installed and programmed.

But it is nice to love my car again.

 

Night and day difference...

Can't wait to get mine up there hopefully sometime this month .

 

Learned a lot from Steve over the weekend!

The car is very smooth and pulls pretty hard...definitely more than I expected. The wastegate could use an upgrade but my EBC does the job for now.

I am not too crazy about the numbers since its all about the graph for me. As Scott said...numbers at his dyno is a heartbreaker and we shouldn't go by it. I'll upload the dyno chart later when I get a chance.

 

enough heart-breaker dyno whining, just post them up already

 

qft

 

^ Well when you dyno less than a stock 4 door Accord, i wouldn't wanna post them up either.










J/k







.

 

Yeah I should have just bought an REW swapped RX-8 that someone else built, I would be much happier and would have saved some cash that is for sure. But for now I am happy, I can imagine driving an 8 with much more than 350HP.

 

lol, coulda shoulda woulda

 

There is always the next step of the build

 

Truth!
Let someone else take the depreciation hit cause we all know you dont get your money back when you start modding cars.
I picked it up for a fraction of what the original owner had into it.




Its called no traction,



.

 

so steve recommends rx-8 trailing in both the leading and trailing gaped at .035??

has this method been discussed somewhere else?

 

Unless it's a good number - then you care

BTW - you wont fix your lack of boost at high rpm with a boost controller .......


Mind sharing what he did with timing and split ?

 

I have no clue, he doesn't share what he does. And Steve said the boost controller was the issue. I will test my actuator either way since I was considering replacing it due to it's age but he was spot on about every other issue so I have no reason to doubt him.

 

so you have a locked tune from him?

 

Yep. But if I need simple changes I can get them made.

 

I too think its more then a boost controller issue. I think the diaphragm on his WG actuator is leaking.

 

Good luck with that . Only time I ever managed to get decent boost up top with a controller was when I had one that increased duty cycle as rpms increased. Otherwise 7psi is about the limit to what you can get at high rpms without moving to a larger actuator. Even then it's very difficult to make over 8-9psi.
Or - you could do what I've done which has worked flawlessly for over 4 yrs now ...... get back to me when you are sick of dicking about with boost controllers.

Also : I thought the reach of the RX8 trailing is too short to use in the leading position ?

 

Sifu had no issue holding boost once his Blitz controller was set up properly. IIRC his boost dropped to 7psi high in the range but never below that.

 

Which is exactly my experience . I'm holding 10-11 psi at 8000 rpm currently and flowing an honest 390g/s ........
Will dyno as soon as i can get my ECU flash issue sorted but fully expect to see around 350whp .

 

Well we shall see once the boost controller is in. I am also going to test the actuator as well with a pump to see if it is working correctly just for the peace of mind.

 

There is a good reason why no-one with a Greddy kit has ever got close to the 333whp my car made over 3 yrs ago . And it's nothing to do with dynos reading high or low .... just sayin

 

Steve doesnt like to mess with the split in these cars. All that I know off he leaves the split alone.
He was willing to take my leading timing higher--but I settled at 14.5. it was still gaining power every 0.5 bump up.
Just run a Cobb log and you can see the split and the timing.
Using the trailing in the leading position effectively retards the timing a little as it places the spark further from the flame charge.
350 rwhp Bret--Hot Damn!

 

seems like I recall somebody questioning the cheap spark plug choice and being immediately poo-poo'd for suggesting such an idea

as much money as you put into these does it really make sense to not use the best spark plug you can get?

You can get the NGK Iridium Racing plugs made specifically for the Renesis; Part No. 3795 (L) and 5009 (T), both in 9 heat range. They are pricy @ approx. $60 each, but it's the best plug you can put in a hipo Renesis, the correct lengths, etc.. I did manage to get a whole set of 4 in 9L/10T for $80 shipped off Amazon back in January before they caught the pricing mistake. Wish I had bought the entire lot available, lol.