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9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread

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Old May 31, 2013 | 07:38 PM
  #3551  
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Im confused, did you purchase this or build it?
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Old May 31, 2013 | 11:06 PM
  #3552  
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It was made by another member here. I just had it coated by jet Hot
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 11:57 AM
  #3553  
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Interesting tid bit. My car runs about 5 degrees hotter at cruise with the Mazdaspeed bumper versus the stock bumper. The MS bumper opening is mostly filled by my inter-cooler so the air has to make a down turn to go under it and make it to the rad. Where as the stock bumper has the separate opening at the bottom front that allows air to get to radiator directly without hitting the inter-cooler first.

But she still runs cool enough. In traffic in 95F weather for an hour or so I was beating on her pretty hard to try and get coolant temp up to see just what it would max out at I was only able to get it up to 215F. So if 215F is my absolute max I am okay with that.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 01:03 PM
  #3554  
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is that with or without your "intake heat shield"
aka radiator cover
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 01:04 PM
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Maybe it's those granny panties you're wearing?

Here's a suggestion; lay the intercooler over at a 45 deg angle and add an aluminum perimeter shroud out to the bumper opening such the the air that enters the shroud area is forced through the intercooler and the air entering above it goes to the radiator. My bet is they will both be more effective.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 01:13 PM
  #3556  
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TX

Originally Posted by FazdaRX_8
is that with or without your "intake heat shield"
aka radiator cover
Without, the intake tray is going in tomorrow.

Originally Posted by TeamRX8
Maybe it's those granny panties you're wearing?

Here's a suggestion; lay the intercooler over at a 45 deg angle and add an aluminum perimeter shroud out to the bumper opening such the the air that enters the shroud area is forced through the intercooler and the air entering above it goes to the radiator. My bet is they will both be more effective.


Hoss-05 and I were looking at that last night on his car and I think ducting is a must. I just wish that I did not suck at fabricating,
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 01:57 PM
  #3557  
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Hopefully this rain go's away so we can wrench tonight.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 04:20 PM
  #3558  
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Stupid question but Scott im assuming you and the other SARX guys who are boosted basically do your own maintenance on the car as well correct (e.g oil changes, fluid flushes etc). If so do you guys go by mazdas schedule or your modified schedule on how often to do these services.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 04:30 PM
  #3559  
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Yeah, dumb question . I don't let anyone outside of SARX touch my car. Okay, except Steve Kan, my tuner. But he has a SARX decal on his car so he is sort of a honorary member

I change my oil every 2500 miles, my coolant once a year, trans fluid once a year, and diff fluid once a year regardless of mileage. I also change my plugs every 10,000-15,000 miles or so.

But as a general rule for a pretty stock non tracked RX-8 I would say changing the oil every 3,000-4,000 miles and then doing every thing else (trans fluid, diff, coolant, air filter, plugs, and stock coils) yearly is a good idea.

Last edited by 9krpmrx8; Jun 7, 2013 at 04:38 PM.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 06:35 PM
  #3560  
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
I got my KMA tray back from Jet Hot. They did excellent work Satin silver on the tray and satin black on the Canton reservoir It's can withstand temps of 1300F. The bolts were just used for mock up, I will get proper hardware for the setup soon.
It's about time you got that thing installed! I sent it to you months ago!

Originally Posted by Carbon8
That tray is a thing of beauty, how thick is it?

Someone could make a good amount of money selling those.
It's .09" Thick 5053 Aluminum if I remember correctly, I made it.

Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
You don't want flow thru the radiator into the engine bay directly on the intake piping and my FAL fan setup makes it worse in traffic at low speeds because it's pulling so much air. It raises intake air temps significantly. Technically is also affects aero dynamics but that is not the reason I got it, and had a heat barrier put on it. I did it to help decrease intake temps. I will be redoing the Greddy inlet compressor pipe as well and I will have it and the cold side charge pipes coated at Jet Hot as well.

It may all be for nothing, but we will be doing some tests so we shall see.
Definitely interested in seeing the results, I don't have before data to compare it to.

Originally Posted by TeamRX8
Here's a suggestion; lay the intercooler over at a 45 deg angle and add an aluminum perimeter shroud out to the bumper opening such the the air that enters the shroud area is forced through the intercooler and the air entering above it goes to the radiator. My bet is they will both be more effective.
That's how I have my intercooler, tilted back at about a 45 degree angle.
I really should make some nice ducting for the Intercooler and Radiator.

I'll probably do that when I get around to upgrading the Radiator.
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Old Jul 3, 2013 | 11:38 AM
  #3561  
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Old Jul 3, 2013 | 03:08 PM
  #3562  
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???
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Old Jul 3, 2013 | 03:33 PM
  #3563  
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I installed a cam this weekend, sounds good right?
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Old Jul 3, 2013 | 04:18 PM
  #3564  
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this better not be a "my car sounds like a subaru" conclusion.
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Old Jul 3, 2013 | 04:31 PM
  #3565  
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Nah, my car is running great, the exhaust tone has just changed over the past couple of months, I think the muffler packing might be done. Sounds good though,
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Old Jul 3, 2013 | 04:33 PM
  #3566  
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lol, good to hear!!!
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Old Jul 9, 2013 | 12:12 PM
  #3567  
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Scott, ever get around to that S2 trans install.

Willing to part with the shift **** by chance, if so let me know a price as I am looking for one.

Thanks
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Old Jul 9, 2013 | 12:52 PM
  #3568  
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The S2 trans and clutch will go in soon but I don't have the shift ****.
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Old Jul 9, 2013 | 12:54 PM
  #3569  
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Thats depressing, FYI the switch wiring is simple is you need the wiring I can take pics of mine and post them up.
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Old Jul 9, 2013 | 12:59 PM
  #3570  
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Thanks man, but we have done two S2 trans swaps previously so I'm good.
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Old Aug 7, 2013 | 05:12 PM
  #3571  
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I compression tested the engine last Saturday and compression is still good and the pulses are nice and even. I did have one face on the front that was 3% off but still well within spec. The overall numbers were on the lower side of the scale for the cranking RPMS so I don't expect this engine to last much past 25,000 - 30,000 miles.

I'm not sure what's up with the elevated metals in the oil report, I am thinking if it's not from the engine then possibly it's from the turbo. I have no clue if Turdblown actually had the turbo rebuilt or rebalanced when the Comp billet wheel went on and I do have oil burning occasionally. I still have too much oil pressure at the turbo so part of the problem is my fault so I will install the new restrictor this weekend and see if that helps eliminate it completely.

I also ordered a turbo oil pressure regulator and that will go on as well and I will get the turbo rebuilt if the restrictor doesn't work and it still smokes. The regulator should work out well and the new wastegate actuator should solve my boost drop off issues as well so it will be nice to hold 9-10psi.

I plan on starting a rebuild on a new engine soon and I will document the tear down of a fresh reman purchased from the dealer here for the benefit of the whoever is interested


The car is running great with the exception of dealing with only 4-5psi on occasion and the low idle conditions in the insane 100F+ heat. If ambient temp are 85F and under she drives like a dream. Other than that I just need to get my tray/coolant reservoir/catch can, my oil filter relocation setup installed, and my coolant swapped to the Evans and that will be about it until the next stage of the build.
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Old Aug 7, 2013 | 11:23 PM
  #3572  
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you know the answer: REW conversion
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 12:07 AM
  #3573  
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When you install that regulator be sure to post pictures of the setup.
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 12:12 AM
  #3574  
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Hard to believe your just going to rebuild it. Two things come to mind. 1 why do another rebuild if you think your ceramic fortune is failing. 2 are you sure it isn't still breaking in? Maybe the wear will taper off
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 12:18 AM
  #3575  
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Originally Posted by FazdaRX_8
Hard to believe your just going to rebuild it. Two things come to mind. 1 why do another rebuild if you think your ceramic fortune is failing. 2 are you sure it isn't still breaking in? Maybe the wear will taper off
Why build a new engine? Because its a renesis... After 10,000 miles pretty much any break-in that was going to happen has happened.

You are now into wear issues.
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