I'll probably be up and running the weekend after next. I'm going out of town this coming weekend.

Read, read, read, and then read again. Proper prior planning is key, don't follow my path

I'll summarize when I'm done.

 

If you want to make some serious power there is only one way you will do it using that actuator - fitting a bigger actuator wont work as well BTW .

Cut 3mm off the end of the thread and remove the nut . This will give you the adjustment you need later (and save it being a major PIA ) . But set the rod back in stock position till you get it tuned.

Either this or settle with 270-280whp max. like all the others that preferred to listen to MM.

 

The actuator is at 8 PSI stock right?

 

Do I need to remove the nut or just move it back and tighten the end piece? I hadn't got to messing with the actuator yet.

 

stock wastegate spring is set to 5.6 psi .... but i am experiencing spiking to 7 psi ....

BNR upgrades the actuators although I do not know the details

 

Excellent thanks for the info!

I'm tossing some ideas around currently, and looking at streamlining the Greddy piping network. Also I'm looking at 3" inlet 2" outlet on the compressor housing.

I firmly believe the greddy piping was designed to fit and not to perform. The R&D they go through with the nissan/evo guys is different and is designed to perform. I can only imagine its easier since they have a piping system to look at improving, versus designing a new one.

Anyways... I'll update my boost thread once I get the internals back form Microblue and get the housing. Till then I'll just keep thread jacking 9K LOL.

 

The waste gate actuator and bracket on the BNR unit look exactly the same as mine, not sure how that is an upgrade, I don't think you can take them apart.

 

So if I understand correctly the reason for doing this would be to increase the preload on the actuator to prevent the wastegate from opening at all before it's supposed to, correct?

And I'm guessing that without cutting down the actuator arm you can't tighten the preload enough?

 

I want to work on the same thing ... imo that 90 degree bend coming out of the turbo is the killer .. I think I am going to try taking out some metal to see if it helps... see attachment, pardon the artwork.

I am also considering deleting the passenger oil cooler and moving the intake there ... BOV recirc will be fun, but not too bad I imagine ... Honestly, I feel that the stock MAF placement is waaaay too far away from the turbo. What is your opinion on extending MAF wires? Do you know where one can acquire a MAF flange? I am also thinking about upping the MAF tube diameter to 3.75inch, tossing the screens and using this for straightener ... should allow for a shorter MAF tube to be used http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...r+Airflow+Stra

I need to finish my tuning first, upgrade fuel pump and injectors(A/T blues, Aeromotive 340 fuel pump .. opinion?) (I can still advance about 2 degrees in some places, but my MAF isnt completely scaled yet) and get a baseline dyno run in first tho ...

BTW are you tunning with cobb ? Did you experience a lean spike when going from cruise to WOT? (Staying in the same gear) I am guessing this can be solved through on-throttle tables, but I have not played with them yet.

It is an upgrade because when I bought my used greddy, my wastegate actuator was crushed. I know because I talked to Brian at BNR to obtain another actuator for about 70 bucks ... greddy wanted to sell me a new turbo for 2.3k ....

Brian told me he upgrades them, but i didnt have funds available and went for a stock one .... i wonder if my spiking issue is in part due to this ... I also think I have an early BNR upgrade ... since my turbo is watercooled ... I am also attaching pics of my turbo,



but boost starts to drop off at 7.7k at 8.5 k its full on surge .... this

I wonder if increasing boost pressure to push the turbo closer to efficiency can fix this somewhat ... but alas, I cannot test this before I put in injectors

Finally, what are your guys oil temps like?

 

just take off the 3mm - very hard to do when the turbo is on the car . Take the nut off once you are tuned to 5-6psi and ready to up your game .

 

MAF Wires can be extended, a few members here have done it, the question is how far can you extend them without causing possible issues(Adding wire adds resistance which could cause some issues).

MAF Flange can be purchased from Treadstone Performance, you'll need the Denso Style Flange.

No reason to change the MAF Tube Diameter keep it the same as stock with a 3.375" ID

Screens or the Honeycomb MAF Straightener, I don't think you'll see much of a difference.

When tuning MAF Scaling should be the first thing you get done, then go from there.
Just have the Stock Yellow P2's uncapped and flow matched, and you'll be fine as far as fuel goes.

 

If you are chasing 300+ I definitely agree with this

Your inlet piping MUST be at least as big but preferably bigger than the turbo inlet .This ,I believe, is the major issue with the BNR upgrade.
The turbo outlet is a restriction as is the stock 2" tube to the IC . 21/2" would work much better there .

 

What this does is prevent the WG opening past a certain point . It does mean that you don't have a low boost setting though . It's ***** to the wall or not at all .

 

Under what conditions ? IE wide open throttle or partial throttle ?

 

When Slamming the throttle in mid to high rpm (slamming form very light to no throttle)

If I ease into it, its fine ... I also think my waste gate line is a bit too long as I have it looping up to my coolant tank and back down. I wanted to give myself enough slack for when I put in boost controller

I am also considering porting the waste gate, removing the stock door and welding an exhaust valve from a honda as the new door

 

I would say that is normal and quite hard to eliminate - 7psi you say ? pffffft wait till you get to 12psi and spike to 15 before you think of it as an issue .


why ?

 

well I can tell you it definately isn't a 60-1 . Inlet is too small .
And there is no way you should be getting any surge under load with that turbo . You may get some at light throttle if your BOV is not set up properly

 

Brettus, PM coming cause I dont want to hijack thread

 

The honeycomb will provide less restriction at peak turbo flow rates

 

Stink that is definitely not a current BNR, the inlet is small and the BNR has the coolant ports sitting outboard away from the motor and judging by the banjo fitting one of your coolant lines comes from the top water port closest to the engine. I still don't see how BNR upgrades the actuator, I highly doubt that.

 

Just remove the nut and you will have plenty of room to play with... This is what i did and you could easily get 12 psi from the greddy..... Not that you should do that but i bumped mine up to about 7.5psi..... So who really even needs a low boost setting at only 7psi?

 

Yea the stock outlet being 1.5" using a 20g wheel makes no sense to me...

However I dont know if the new housing will fit in the manifold area. I cannot get the full dimensions of the new compressor housing.

What I am looking at is getting a smaller battery and coolant tank and moving them over about 6 inches. Then running a 3 inch pipe up to the front bumper creating a fairly straight shot with minimal bends and removal of "essential" equipment.

I'm still not sure about routing the outlet piping and how that will work. My plan is to run 2" to the hot side of the IC and 2.5 from the cold side to the TB. Another option would be to have the cold side 3" this would match the TB creating better flow and allowing the air to become more dense.

Again I'm just tossing ideas around seeing what sticks. once I get the housing and get the turbo assembled assuming it fits with minimal work the plan is to have a shop make the IC piping for me. With the hope of being able to have the lease amount of connections as possible.

 

Just remember that "big is good !" is not really 100% true when it comes to pipework . For up to around 350whp i believe 21/2" is minimum for the intake and 21/4"-21/2"for the hotside and 23/4"-3" for the coldside . Go bigger and there will be a tradeoff on throttle response.

 

Yea... I've been reading allot on the SR20 forums and 7 club. Pretty much everyone runs a pipe size that matches the diameter of the TB on the cold side of the IC. Also running a 2 inch from the compressor outlet to the IC hot side is common. 3" inlet on the compressor seems to be a good way to go as well to match the 20g wheel of course.

I'm going to continue digging of course and will carry this convo over to my own build thread! Sorry for continuing to threadjack 9k!

 

glad to see someone is using the microblue process. Please post some pics and I think you are going to be very pleased with the result.
If you need to move the Maf wires--you can cut into the harness and just separate the maf wires from the others and mount it anywhere you want. Its better than cutting them.