Lets throw on my BHR kit tonight and see if it make a difference (I dont think it will). I also dont see how a alternator would affect starting times on a already charged battery.

 

I can see where the alternator matters if the battery only supplies 12.4v and the alternator output is 14+

 

From what we looked at in the service manual, nothing suggested testing the alternator. I did have huge alternator issues a few years back that did damage to the tune of a few thousand dollars. It overcharged, boiled the battery (which blew), fried the ABS modulator, power windows, and interior lighting. But after that was all fixed (thank to the awesome extended warranty I bought) I replaced the alternator and I have not had an issue since.

I guess I can check the coils using Teams method tonight.

Pieper I forget, what was your issue?

 

My money is still on a short in that power harness for the starter/alternator.

 

Yeah Houstonrx8er suggested I hook the extra battery up to the starter directly but you know how I feel about this voo doo we call electricity so I was not brave enough to that, let alone do it alone,

 

why you got to throw me under the bus like that

just take off Hoss's kit, dont test yours....more work....lol

 

I left out the part where you told me to "redneckognize" after you suggested it.

Good idea, if Hoss' BHR kit makes a difference then we know there is a problem with my kit. But I doubt it is that since I sent it back to Charles before I put the engine in, so it only has 10,000 miles or so on it. But it's worth a try that is for sure.

 

We will figure it out. At this point i think its a wiring issue. Tonight I wanna help shady drop his engine.

 

You guys get to have all the fun, to bad I live in bum f**k Buffalo. Wish more 8's were around here to get going what you all have.
Good luck.

My 2 cents is alternator voltages are normal check wiring, swap BHR kit is good start maybe even a factory kit if you have one just laying around.

 

SARX is lucky man, we have a good group of dedicated guys and while we are in no way experts, we all bring something to the table for our group and learn more every time we do something. I/We have had some **** ups along the way but that is just the way it is, we learn as we go

I have a set of low mileage factory coils and wires to test as well.

 

You have no idea how lucky, the only 8 owners I have ran into up hear are running weapon R and complain about how slow there cars are riding on 20's. Its really just depressing.

On a side note, I look forward to failures as you will learn more. One of the reasons why SARX group to me at least has a great reputation on here. You guys are always trying different things and growing together and that's why we are all really here to begin with.

Respect to a great group of guys right here.

 

Isn't that really low ? Pretty sure mine is more like 10-11v .....

 

Yeah that is low, the minimum voltage specified in the factory service manual at the starter is 11.0V.

 

which is where you measured it ... right?
What is voltage at the battery when cranking ?

 

I have not actually measured at the starter yet or the battery while cranking, I will do that tonight.

 

oh . Once you know those two voltages you can start honing in on where the voltage drop has occurred . Assuming the battery is good as mentioned earlier.
Do you still have the stock battery connections ? That is where a similar problem i was having a while ago came from ....

 

Yeah even though I relocated the battery I still have the stock connections up front which is why it was easy to revert it back to stock and put a battery up front to see if that was the issue. I have two good batteries to use and both are +12V when fully charged.

 

I set a shop light next to the S-shaped plug on the starter and had issues getting it to start for about 3 weeks. I sent it to the dealer and they fixed it for like $90 by replacing that plug.

 

The wire with the white cap on it?

 

All I will suggest to you is to go back and re read the battery relocation topic, especially the parts that relate to bad wiring and earthing.
Then if you still don't understand what your problems are, go and talk to an auto electrician who I'm sure will point out your problems in a couple of minutes of looking at it.

Rotaman

 

I appreciate the response. I have read that information previously and made some changes. As of right now I have one short (less than one foot) ground directly from the battery to the bare chassis using high quality soldered copper ends and high quality 2 AWG wire. For the positive side I have the same highly quality wire and Taylor Cast Copper connectors running to the front and connected to the stock positive terminal. The factory grounds up front are grounded to the bare chassis using the factory grounding wires and they have been cleaned thoroughly.

If I missed something please let me know.

 

Fantastic advice

 

I am assuming you didnt read this post?

 

the ignition coils/fuel pump will have difficulty at that voltage level ole buddy. I did understand that system voltage dropped below 10--right?

 

Unfortunately due to not having seen how you have things setup, ( I haven't gone through your whole thread ) it is hard to give you much advice. But anytime you are getting below 10volts, you are going to run into problems, especially when winter comes around.
If you wanted to take some detailed photos of how you have things setup, and post them up, then maybe we could give you some better advice as to what maybe causing your problem.

Rotaman