this is lower than the original S1 starter ...









maybe you'd like to practice some cold engine shutdowns too


.

 

I can do that, I guess. I am pretty fed up with it at this point. I actually replaced the factory positive side wiring harness that goes all the way to the starter and block with a spare we had in the garage and then it started right up with just a bump of the key. But, then I realized the MAF was unplugged So after I plugged the MAF in and restarted again it was right back to the normal long crank time. Voltage at the starter was 12.2V but when you crank it, it drops to 8-10.0V.

I did not swap the ignition yet, I will do that tomorrow I guess.

 

Team, the starter is brand new and I only replaced it because I assumed my original starter was done but replacing the starter did nothing. Are you implying both starters are toast?

 

The issue is the low voltage. The starter is turning over slowly because of it and the starting is slow because the engine is turning over so slowly.

The only way to determine if the battery is good is a load test. A good charged battery will have 13+ volt output. Either the battery is failing under load, there's a bad wire, or there's a bad wiring connection

 

FWIW, ~9V cranking is normal for our cars. Actually it has been common since the FD RX7 days. My battery has 12.8V w/o load, about 14+ during idle, and drops to 9-10V during crank. Cranking takes no more than 1 second or 2 max.

 

The lowest i saw the voltage drop to on the starter was 8.4 and that was before we replaced the harness. It was very strange that it started so quick before we plugged the maf back in and took it off jack stands.

 

When in doubt swap it out, its not like you guys don't have tons of parts laying around to do so

 

Yeah man, I will probably slap in Hoss' BHR kit tonight and try to swap the starter with one of the ones we have on hand and just see what's up. Both the Red Top and the yellow duralast I have only show about 12.3V when fully charged.

We are pretty damn certain it is not the wiring since we swapped the harness and ran a battery up front to eliminate the battery relocation as and issue.

But this morning it did seem to start quicker than it has been. But i am not getting excited about it, we shall see what happens when i go to lunch.

 

Did you guys test the ampdraw yet on the starter?

You can shoot 40,000 volts into the starter and have the same issues, its all about amperage.

 

 

The Fluke maxes out at 10A, the starter test needs to draw 90-100A as per the FSM. So it can't measure that right? I'll watch the video.

 

Use a shunt resistor, measure voltage over it, and you can calculate the current draw. Just have to find a big a** resistor lol

2KW should do it http://www.rhopointasia.com/index.ph...-K-series.html

 

yea just make sure it is ceramic, and by god don't touch it unless you want to melt skin.

 

F#%k that, I will surely screw that up. I will just do it the dealer way and replace **** until it's fixed,

 

something that might be worth trying ...

take a ground wire directly from the battery to one of the mounting studs on the starter motor. Naturally our starters ground off of the engine block ... but who knows maybe something fruity is going on.

 

I have a long piece of 2 AWG wire, I can do that.

 

as a side note ... and just to get you angry ...

what if...

none of this is your issue ...

and the real issue is that your engine was poorly rebuilt and is requiring more energy to turn over. thus placing stress on the starter ... thus placing stress on the battery ... thus causing a heavy current draw from the battery ... thus *****

let the hate begin.

 

Dealer's should have this makes it a lot easier
Fluke Clamp Meters - My Fluke Store

But also takes the fun out of a 2KW cherry resister getting ready to pop,

I would OHM out your grounds first between the block and the chassis before I started wiring things. Should be well under 1 OHM for a good ground

 

We did that yesterday and everything was like 0.23. But I am not sure we did all of them.

 

Go to an AutoZone, if you have them in TX.

Free battery and load testing including, crank testing full print out of results.

If you haven't already

 

Yeah no... i would rather just get the proper type of tool for the job lol. I have blown up my fair share of resisters. -v^v^- Pop We added a nice thick second ground to the block.

 

i win the internet

 

i wish i lived closer to the sarx team so i could join in these festivities in person ... but i dont think they really accept my kind down there.

 

If that had been the case since the beginning then maybe, but the first time it fired up it fired with a bump of the key and was that way for a while until a couple of months ago. I figured it was the starter since it had 135,000+ miles on it so I let it go for a while since I had a new starter on hand. I didn't start worrying until I go the new starter installed and it was still doing it.

 

How i imagine Paimon if he were to join SARX.