you just never know what i may do lol.

 

I know Brett's setup (I'm pretty sure as we've discussed it a bunch before but that was 6 months ago)... which is how I will be doing mine over the holidays here.... for the EBC he has gauge to nipple just before TB.... Solenoid is connected off of the Fix #2 nipple on the turbo outlet to the solenoid then obviously to the actuator.

 

This thread makes me want to stay NA.

 

Amen

 

The problem is that I think someone needs to make a full kit that works. Every kit available is lacking in some way yet they charge a grip for it.

Here is my perfect kit for a fun daily driver. Yes I realize some of it is unrealistic. If you don't like it make your own kit.

Cobb AP
Greddy Piping with Fix #2 fitting, Jet Air Fitting, Recirc fitting, and BOV flange welded on already.
Greddy Intercooler
Greddy manifold with EGT bung, and DP with extra O2 bung and a RB air pump block off plate included.
54trim or bigger turbo that is both water cooled and oil cooled and with a BB option.
Oil filter adapter plate with feed line and built in serviceable filter.
Synapse DV
AEM/Mazsport type cold air intake with appropriate high quality paper filter
BHR intake tray
High quality silicone couplers and Hose clamps
BHR Fuel pump assembly
BHR Ignition
Injector options
SOHN Adapter with vented reservoir/catch can in one.
Precut splash guards and tray uprights.
High quality Parker hose for all small vacuum, crankcase ventilation, BOV recirculating, boost gauge, EBC, and SOHN.
high quality dual walled 5/8" silcone hose for oil drain.
high quality check valve
DEI cool tape for oil drain line and intake.
Quality heat treated fasteners to bolt all of this up.

 

what RMRX said - before throttle plate .

 

my head spins---glad I went with a sc--its all I can try to handle!
Hats off to ya'll.

 

With you mostly this one ------v

 

True.

 

Okay guys, need some input. The car is running great but now that I am starting to push the RPM's I am having more issues with crankcase pressure due to the scavenge pump and the increased oil pressure my engine has (likely more due to the pump). I sort of resolved it by adding a T with a crankcase filter to the breather line that goes from the oil fill tube to the intake but everyone once in a while if I am going up a long hill (overpass usually) the AFR's go rich and the line gets oil in it and It puts oil in my intake. As soon as I back off the throttle my AFR's go normal and the engine drives fine.

I tried the catch can I have but the inlets and oulets are too small so it actually made it worse, I think because the fittings are too small. I talked to a buddy who has no experience with rotary's but has a lot of experience with turbocharged mustangs and he said the diameter of the stock breather nipple is likely too small. He said I need a breather tank with large inlets and outlets that has some sort of internal baffle and that I need and equally large nipple at the the intake. He recommended that I cap the factory breather nipple on the fill tube and that I tap my oil cap (billet aluminum mazdaspeed) and put a large fitting to feed the breather tank. I did a little research on some racing forums and I did find that excessive crankcase pressure will cause rich AFR's, oil in the intake, etc. So I think his solution sounds good.

Thoughts?

 

Can't see any huge downside problems with this...other than the already added complexity of the scavenge pump

I can't see why you would have to bother plugging off the current vent system...just T it into the new line??

 

have you started tuning for boost yet or are you guys still running through the fuel maps?

 

If your pressure is so high with the scavenge pump maybe it would be normal without it?

It's a tad risky but might be worth giving it a shot.

 

Ah but I love complexity When I don't run the pump I get smoke from the turbo so I know it's not draining properly and I have it clocked as much as possible. In hind site I should have just went with the BNR or I should have personally taken it to Majestic Turbo with the manifold so they could see exactly how I wanted it positioned. But for now, the system is working fine. I did ditch the RB racing pump (noisy as hell) and went with a Jabsco Jr. pump that is made for transfering oil on yachts. It was a gift from my GF and it is quiet as hell and is working perfect so far. Plus it has a one year warranty where as all the "racing" pumps typically don't. I still want to get a fail safe for it, hopefully Hoss-05 can help me wire something up when he gets back.

We are still running through fuel maps. Kane is the man, I love the way he handles the tuning.

It smokes without it. Just make sure on yours that it sits to drain straight down.

 

how do you know it just doesn't need more tuning ? Talk to kane .

 

It's not tuning, my intake is full of oil. I stopped right after the bogging happens and when I removed the intake tube, there was fresh oil in the intake. I cleaned it all up and drove around normally and it did not do it, no oil at all. Then I went up the hill behind my work and at the point where it's just about to go into boost, the bogging happens, and then when I stopped, there was oil in the intake.

I may need to drop the oil level down a bit as well, I typically keep it to near full.

 

Nooooo You are in charge of clocking my turbo... You make sure!!

hahaha.

 

Your should be fine, the CHRA you got looks to be properly orientated.

 

sounds like the old 'snookered by the scavenge pump' trick

 

Yeah if I put the breather filter directly on the nipple on the filler tube with the engine off and the pump is running you can see the vapors/steam being pushed out of the filter. When you turn it off it stops. So i know for sure the pump is helping to over pressurize the crankcase. If this doesn't work then one last thing my friend recommended was putting a breather tank directly after the pump, this is what a lot of low mount twin turbo domestic guys do.

Something like this:

 

believe it or not, you may be getting into your secondary injectors and then bogging. This is all in the tuning. Im with brett on this

 

Yeah it could be but it was running fine before and we have not made any changes that I know of that would effect that.

 

if you have multiplied anyting on your afr map then you have altered what "you think" cant change it.

if you started tuninmg with Kane then I know you have already scaled the MAF. this will drastically change your top end.

 

You mean the VE map? We haven't gotten there yet.

 

when you scale you start with the low rpms and work your way up. But when Kane scales he takes everything from the point of manipulation on up when he scales so the higher you go (more fuel injectors kick in) the worse the top end gets... until you fine tune it that is Kane will get you there very soon