Yeah I am awaiting his response VIA email to see what he thinks. Hopefully it's that simple and the oil in the intake is just a coincidence. I kind of doubt that though.

 

This.

The oil is a separate issue.

This is also why I say no-no to boosting stuff while we tune. The variables start to add up and you can't really tell why is is bogging rich.

 

Well there you have it. But I am not seeing boost when I get this, could something me causing me to go into boost early?. I may need to get a second boost gauge to test against my Goodbox to make sure it is reading right. I guess I will have to take the no hills route home

 

New catch can (sorry for crappy cell pics).

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6594683869/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6594921363/

The inlet is a large orifice hat feeds down into the filter/baffles (not sure what the material is, almost feels like stone) then the outlet is the two small holes that feed vapors back into the intake. The guy at Jeg's said this used on big block race engines so it should have no problem dealing with a turboed rotaries crankcase pressure. We will see.


Oh, and the mounting brackets can be situated in all four directions to facilitate mounting.

 

even when you do not see positive boost the turbo is still flowing far more air than NA.

 

Yeah it's just weird that it started happening all of the sudden but maybe the small tweaks we made affected it.

 

When i first saw your picture this is my first thought..



I think we found a new name for your catch can..

 

cochino.

 

Its an air line water trap for compressors. The inlet feeds air to the outside of the filter,the exit is through the center of the filter. About $20. from most tool stores.

 

LOL yep, I used a Kobalt air water separator for a long time in my 8. It appears (assuming that the can is not thin plastic like mine was) to be of a higher quality material.

 

Thanks for illustrating why I would never buy an engine without having the builder break it in on their engine dyno, which in turn is why I would never buy an engine from a builder who cannot validate their work prior to sending it to me. That's not to say there is anything wrong with this engine or the builder, but rather to stress that the engine would be broken in entirely NA on a strict regimen and under the control and watchful eye of the builder. It also provides some measure of reassurance when trying to diagnose something like this. If you go through all the trouble of installing a new engine, and then have to turn around and yank it out again, the additional cost will seem irrelevant particularly in light of all the advantages.

 

What does his engine have to do with his turbo/scavenge pump setup?

 

Yeah I was actually going to make one on my own but after visiting Home Depot and Lowes I found that the air/water separators they have are cheap black plastic pieces of crap and the filters look like paper. They were around $25.00 so considering this has a mounting bracket and comes with brass fittings, I think it is worth it. This thing is a thick billet aluminum up top and the plastic bowl is very thick and the I talked to Jeg's yesterday and they said the filter never needs replacing, you just clean it with carb cleaner.


UPDATE:

The bogging is gone and Kane is the man. I realize everyday that I still have many years of learning ahead of me. Let the tuning continue That is all.

 

great news 9k. now finish breaking it in

 

Have you gone through your break in miles yet?

 

I had an instance where my oil can filled up too, I bet when you where driving up hill your oil filled the dipstick check tube, therefor when your turbo was sucking in air it was creating a vacuum in your oil pan and started sucking up oil. this is what happened to me, I had overfilled my oil because I had drained the oil from the coolers and thought it would need extra on my first start.

I got my oil/water separator from home depot, its an black aluminum body with a glass container with the aluminum case, something like 35$. good luck!!

 

Not yet, I'm at about 600 miles.

Yeah hopefully my oil in the intake issues are gone.

 

I actually think my oil intake problem was caused by not using a funnel and pouring to fast.

 

Okay guys, I need some input. I am thinking ahead and I think I want to go with a Comp oil less turbo. The benefits are obvious and although these turbos have not been out too long, they are doing great from what I have read. That said, I found no info specific to Rotaries.

Anyway, I have been talking to Comp and basically what we have come up with is that they can take their oil less CHRA and use the Greddy turbine housing (and I am guess compressor housing) to give me a great oil less turbo. No worries about oil feed, drain, scavenge, etc.

Thoughts? Ideas on trim size, etc.?

 

20g, get your compressor housing honed like mine.

Its a fairly common size, the 1618z is a 20g turbine and 18g compressor.

I don't like dicking with trim sizes, I know what the stock wheels were and I went slightly bigger.

Brettus can give you better info.

 

turblown is toying with oil less turbos, They seem to happy with them.

If you are going to stick with the greddy kit in the future than maybe a custom oil less greddy is your direction. But for 2k you can get turblowns oil less turbo and manifold

 

With the Turbo? I thought it was 2k just for the manifold and DP?

 

 

Macgyverizing is what gets me in trouble My current setup is finally working well, but for a minute at start up I am burning oil because oil is draining back down into the turbo after shutdown even if I do let the pump run for a minute after shutdown. It's common knowledge I know, but the oil drain has to point straight up and down in order to avoid issues. That said, from what AMR says, and what I have read on a few turbo builder sites, the oil burning is not an issue as long as it is not burning once running, which it is not. It's just a bit annoying in the morning or after the car has sat for a couple of hours.

I just need to finish this tuning. Finding a flat place to get cruise logs has proven to be very difficult actually. But I will be happy and it will all be worth it if my car makes decent HP

 

Cant you just get cruise logs on the highway?