9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread
Let me just tell you that it works insanely well. I took a little road trip yesterday through the hills with two passengers, AC on, pushing hard to near redline through the curves, and I could not get the temps above 210F. I don't want to brag too much so early on but as of now it is working perfect. Splicing into the factory 5/8" heater hose was a breeze and for the money, this is just a great way to get the water temps down.
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https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-aftermarket-performance-modifications-23/cooling-mod-idea-155235/
Last edited by Brettus; Jul 11, 2011 at 06:12 PM.
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Well guys, looks like I spoke too soon and will be adding an engine build to this thread as well. I was talking to OD about some coolant loss through the reservoir overflow hose but it looks like that was due to a change is system pressure caused by a coolant leak into the combustion chamber. I was actually going to rent a coolant systems pressure tester tonight after work but i just got this VIA email right now which pretty much confirms what I thought which explains the misfires.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5931654852/
So this pretty much confirms it to me that failure on a Mazda reman is just going to happen prematurely due to the use of used parts, it is just a matter of when. I have done everything to insure reliability in this engine (no cat, BHR ignition, SOHN, premix, etc.) and it still only lasted 30,000 miles.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5931654852/
So this pretty much confirms it to me that failure on a Mazda reman is just going to happen prematurely due to the use of used parts, it is just a matter of when. I have done everything to insure reliability in this engine (no cat, BHR ignition, SOHN, premix, etc.) and it still only lasted 30,000 miles.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; Jul 12, 2011 at 04:22 PM.
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If I were to guess it would be as much a function of the rebuild process as it is the used parts.
Email Sent, Ill do what I can to give you a hand bro. Expect to see me soon.
Email Sent, Ill do what I can to give you a hand bro. Expect to see me soon.
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Boost build...
Find an experienced engine builder, it will be way worth it reliability wise. You can't balance a rotating assembly in your garage and do a bunch of other tricks without the proper tools.
When there's the need I have to take the assembly to a shop to be balanced and that sucks money wise
You already had enough bad luck with reman engines, a garage build may just have other "crappy" outcomes.
Find an experienced engine builder, it will be way worth it reliability wise. You can't balance a rotating assembly in your garage and do a bunch of other tricks without the proper tools.
When there's the need I have to take the assembly to a shop to be balanced and that sucks money wise

You already had enough bad luck with reman engines, a garage build may just have other "crappy" outcomes.
None of that stuff matters if the build was not solid from the start and even if it was then pre-mix is the only item that will have any impact. Those other items don't affect engine life. Otherwise sorry to hear about your troubles. Sounds like the engine is at least still reasonably fuctional so at least it isn't a castrophic or down and out emergency situation.
I'm thinking alot of it has to do with the extreme heat you boys in the BIG state have to deal with also.... just that much more added stress on everything...
Shoulda had that extra Rad long ago...... Third times the charm though
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; Jul 12, 2011 at 04:59 PM.
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Boost build...
Find an experienced engine builder, it will be way worth it reliability wise. You can't balance a rotating assembly in your garage and do a bunch of other tricks without the proper tools.
When there's the need I have to take the assembly to a shop to be balanced and that sucks money wise
You already had enough bad luck with reman engines, a garage build may just have other "crappy" outcomes.
Find an experienced engine builder, it will be way worth it reliability wise. You can't balance a rotating assembly in your garage and do a bunch of other tricks without the proper tools.
When there's the need I have to take the assembly to a shop to be balanced and that sucks money wise

You already had enough bad luck with reman engines, a garage build may just have other "crappy" outcomes.
None of that stuff matters if the build was not solid from the start and even if it was then pre-mix is the only item that will have any impact. Those other items don't affect engine life. Otherwise sorry to hear about your troubles. Sounds like the engine is at least still reasonably fuctional so at least it isn't a castrophic or down and out emergency situation.
I dunno, my second reman lasted 74,000 hard driven miles with very little premix and Castrol 10W-30 in Texas heat. This engine saw way less mileage since i don't drive nearly as much as I did with the previous engine. I just think the QC is lame at the reman plant and that either it was a shoddy build or parts were used that were not ideal or close to being out of spec. But at least I will get to see the inside of this one.
You shouldn't need to balance anything or perform any tricks unless you pop and apex seal and need to get a used rotor. Chances are they didn't line up the coolant seal properly and placed the joint on the exhaust side causing a small coolant leak.
Also I've seen pro builders come out with the same outcomes of garage builders.
It comes down to patience and skill, if you have a daily driver and have some extra funds its a fun little project. If you take your time and follow directions not rushing things you will end up with a clean build.
Also I've seen pro builders come out with the same outcomes of garage builders.
It comes down to patience and skill, if you have a daily driver and have some extra funds its a fun little project. If you take your time and follow directions not rushing things you will end up with a clean build.
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Decisions, Decisions. Tough ones.
This is something I have to consider. I just always wanted to do it at my leisure when I had a reliable daily.
I rented a coolant system pressure tester and pressurized the system and removed the L2 plug and coolant dribbled out so it's done for sure.
You shouldn't need to balance anything or perform any tricks unless you pop and apex seal and need to get a used rotor. Chances are they didn't line up the coolant seal properly and placed the joint on the exhaust side causing a small coolant leak.
Also I've seen pro builders come out with the same outcomes of garage builders.
It comes down to patience and skill, if you have a daily driver and have some extra funds its a fun little project. If you take your time and follow directions not rushing things you will end up with a clean build.
Also I've seen pro builders come out with the same outcomes of garage builders.
It comes down to patience and skill, if you have a daily driver and have some extra funds its a fun little project. If you take your time and follow directions not rushing things you will end up with a clean build.
I rented a coolant system pressure tester and pressurized the system and removed the L2 plug and coolant dribbled out so it's done for sure.
Water and oil passages can be reworked, as well as the oil pump area. Add the random tolerances and side seal cutting stuff, ports clean-up and you have quite a few things to be done
building your own will be as big of a crap shoot as another reman, that said you likely are not interested in paying $8k+ for a real pro built engine broken in and dyno tested prior to shipping it to you either
pro built Renesis = Daryl Drummond, Rick Engman, David Haskell
then there is everybody else ...
pro built Renesis = Daryl Drummond, Rick Engman, David Haskell
then there is everybody else ...



