be very carefule with misfires in that rpm range and you know why.
the apv runners are not fed by any of the injectors--so how are your a/f's --normal?
There is one test I know of that will verify that the apv's are stuck open.
Accelerate the engine --let off the throttle and watch your vacuum gauge. If the apv's are open your 30 psi vacuum gauge should/will peg. If it only goes to 24-26 then the apv's are closed. If they are stuck open --on decl you are getting a LOT of very hot air back into the LIM and uim.
Ask me how I know this

 

Scott, I assume that the misfires are coming from light throttle? No boost?

The APV being stuck open would cause some very disrupted afr values.

I can tell you that I was getting misfires too when I first loaded the stock map. This was solved with tuning. I was not getting any codes for the apv though.

 

Yeah these are happening at light throttle, I'm not revving past 3,000 RPM or so and I have not hit boost. Hopefully it's tuning. I am still getting a bit of smoke at start-up hopefully it's residual junk in the exhaust because it smells nasty. I tightened up the BOV, it was at a really soft setting. I was thinking maybe and vacuum leak somewhere but it idles perfectly.

 

Seems like you are going to have to investigate the apv and make sure it is cycling properly. When you turn the car off do you hear it cycle? Key to on position then off it should cycle.

 

Yeah when I turn the key I hear all the clicks, etc. I need to get the APV motor off and check the gear to assure everything is moving freely.

 

Honestly it don't matter until you are getting above the 5k rpm range. APV's don't open until 5200 iirc.

You are still keeping it under 4k for the break-in right?

 

kind of sounds like scott already put his foot down... the boost is just too tempting for him

 

lol

 

Yeah, I haven't gone much over 3,000 RPM and even when I did it was only for a few seconds going uphill. I can hear the turbo though, it is exciting

 

Cell Phone pic.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6460815997/

 

no catch can ?

 

thats exactly what I was thinking

 

Nope, not until I find a good one, the one I have (cheap ebay POS) was not venting properly which was causing excessive crankcase pressure, thus oil burning. I will check the intake tract for oil just to make sure none is getting into the turbo.

 

Im running the prosport one. Not a terrible price and has been doing a fairly good job.



Kane might be able to tell you how to make one.

 

Yeah I will get one soon. I just need to find the right one.

 

Have you done the eccentric shaft sensor reset? Those misfires aren't misfires, they're your sensor signal not matching with your engine.

 

I have not done the brake stomp method, but the battery and PCM were out of the car. I guess I could do it anyway.

 

I am not sure how you could diagnose that without being there, nor do I know why you think it would be that.


... you can always try to clean the sensor. if you lift up the car and slide under you can see it quite easily.

If the sensor was reading wrong you would have a terrible idle too, which is why I doubt that's what it is.

 

The sensor is clean as a whistle, I did that when I put it on the new motor.

 

Oh BTW, bleeding the clutch sucks, what a pain in the ***.

 

100x more likely to be overly rich while running a base FI map . But then I'm only guessing as well .

 

n00bs

 

I took some logs at lunch, AFR's are in the 14's, it is rich (12-13's) until the engine warms up though and then the AFR's lean out to 14's.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6461699361/

 

STFT is trending rich, but nothing extreme nor should it need to be at those loads

 

nice, but dump that strut bar ...

QUOTE=9krpmrx8;4138142] Cell Phone pic.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6460815997/[/QUOTE]