Its actually really easy to do on just 2 jack stands set to the highest setting.

Rotary Resurrections thread about removing the engine has allot of useful info on this.

 

This
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/diy-rx-8-engine-removal-how-pics-178937/

and this
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/complete-engine-teardown-bare-shortblock-how-pictures-178945/

is all you will need.

 

Awesome, Thanks!

 

Ok---but meanwhile google "cribbing". Thats the safest way to get the car up. JACK STANDS ARE NOT SAFE. I can tell you horror stories, a couple where i witnessed the out come. Dont play around with it. $30 of lumber from Lowes/Home depo and a few minutes of your time.
Oh yea --look at the pics of my engine build--you will see them. Remember you will be wrestling a heavy trans under the car and you need it stable and solid. Also have it high engound that you can roll over while lying under it without touching the frame of the car.

 

They use your "cribbing" over here to hold up houses/shacks.

 

Try lifting the car from the frame lift spots. Much safer.

 

Guns kill people.

 

I typically do, the front frame rails just behind the cross member and the rear jack stand points, is that what you mean?

 

Yep. Then shove the car a few times to check safety. Every time we have pulled engines this is what we have done and the car has never even come CLOSE to falling off the stands. My garage, Jeff's garage, Flashwing's garage, our shop.......... all safe when used as directed.

 

Flat concrete floor...and solid jack stands, on good secure mounting points = will stand up in an earthquake

un-level, asphalt, crappy jack stands, on crappy locations = fail

Idiots will find ways to make anything fail...............

 

So ............................................. this install .................................................. ........... finished yet ?

 

Funny guy. But hey at least installing my turbo kit will be easier now.

 

sucks about the engine, but here's the chance to go ***** to the wall on this project. how soon is this happening?

 

not really, if you want easier now would be a good time to install a 2 or 4 post lift in your garage like you always wanted ...

 

jack stands break-----seen it and the results of it happening.
but ok--yall go right ahead--dont believe an old man. you may be fine using jack stands for the rest of your life--or they could fall tomorrow.
So pass that Bud--Bubba and lite that there torch--i have to get under that car and wield that gas tank up--hurry up there a big fish fry at the church in a couple hrs!!!

 

+1. This is a critical step most people disregard.

 

yeah remember we talked VIA PM about it, But after examining my factory oil cooler i decided this Long brand unit was a better choice. But now I won't know until the motor gets here.

Hopefully the money will be in my account tomorrow and I can make my deposit. From there is will be about two weeks for the rebuild, balance, etc. then shipping will probably be a week or so I am estimating. For now, I gotta get this motor out ASAP to avoid a separate core charge.

Man I wish, my father is building a real shop in September, it will be nice to have access to a real lift. I think it's his way of getting me up there to wrench on his Jeeps


Yeah, i am always a little nervous about stands myself but I have a few floor jacks, I always leave them as back up. But I have been meaning to buy some of those really big jack stands, now is my chance to buy them and a jack that will get the car up there. I have a transmission jack that Hoss-05 bought so that will help as well.

 

Well when the time comes give me a shout and see if my hands are still idle and in need of something to do.

 

Lots of people stepping up to give you a hand~! that is great. I wish I could get there for the de-install of the engine.

 

if it wasnt such a long drive--i would be there.
If Mark is going to be there--i dont have anything better to add except the below--which Mark is surely aware of then some.
Actually its just work and you can do it.
i did hard label my injector harness and ignition coil harness connectors before removing.
Dont forget to address that fuel line connector--the one that connects the two rails, just add a worm clamp around the connector to INSURE that little red spacer thing doesnt pop out and send gas everywhere AND run the engine lean:0.
When pulling the engine place a small piece of plywood in front of the fans etc--to protect that from any banging.
DO NOT let the trans hang by the shaft at anytime. And I wish you better luck than I have during the reinstall. I ended up having to make guide bolts for the trans--just buy some long bolts from Home depo etc and dremel cut the heads off--making sure that they are long enough to get out once the trans is flush mounted--lol. Ask me how I know?
The S1 trans is not as heavy as the S2.
Does line up tools are not exactly right?
This is where you will value having room under the car.
While you are under there add some heat shielding so your cup holders will not get so hot

 

Will do. Thanks, I appreciate it.

You can help me when you get here! Hurry your *** up!


Thanks, I done quite a few engine swaps in various cars, trucks, etc. So hopefully that experience will help me a bit. The worst engine I ever did was a V-6 out of a Nissan Xterra, what a nightmare that was.

 

I will be there from the 7th - 12th.

Not bringing the girlfriend this time so the cars will get my full attention... and maybe a few cans of shiner. Ill forward you my itinerary in the next few days.

 

9k,

Glad to see you went with Rob to build your motor. He has an awesome rep. Good luck with the build and swap

By chance did you talk with him about his 3 rotor Renesis builds? Or his other interesting Renesis build?

 

Yes we did talk about that, he also emailed me some pictures, very interesting stuff. I wanted to post the pictures so bad but I didn't ask permission so I just gawked at them myself

 

Hey guys, couple of questions. Do you think it is a bad idea to run the oil feed line from my oil filter adapter plate? Or should I do it as recommended from the factory oil pressure sending unit? Juts seems like a shorter line from the filter adapter plate would be better.


Also, is running the drain line to the oil drain pan plug okay? I use an oil extractor for oil changes anyway.