Why?

 

LESSON #6.. Borrow a bay with a hoist and drop it out the bottom

 

Fixed.

 

I made a crib from 2X4's, and a small 4 wheel trolley....it sat on it nice a pretty....

Didn't need an A/C recarge....same reason as out the top...except it is easier to get it out of the way

The Hunter wheel alignment machine is in a good buddies shop...but the alignment didn't change..until I replaced all the a-arm and lower control arm bushings with the Speedsource stuff....and then it needed an alignent bad

It is way easier to do it from the bottom up...no pissing around trying to get the input shaft aligned with the pilot bearing...no pissing around taking the pulley off...or trying to get it to clear with the big oil pan in the way.

Took less than 3 hours to drop it...and about that to put it back.....that included building the motor up from the keg and doing the fuel system.....

Don't knock it till you try it that way...it is almost enjoyable

 

I have done it that way. It sucked. lol

 

sucking is relative, lol....

so is how enjoyable it is.

I lifted the engine out the top, and my only real advice is Take Your Time. don't be afraid to redo things if it doesn't go in right.

But given the lengthy process at which he does everything, I expect that my advice needs no echo.

 

In and out the bottom is always the way to go

 

Removing the bumper is not needed but we ran out of lift room and ended up having to lower the car. First time mistake, won't happen again. But this is one of those jobs that will get easier and quicker each time you do it.

 

For how long it takes I take the bumper off a lot...anytime I am worried about.scratching it

 

Also, does anyone know where I can get the parts for the turbo inlet/outlet?

Circled here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6050846262/

Also, the gasket between the turbine outlet and the downpipe I got from ATP does not match the stock Greddy gasket, the holes don't line up. I was looking at the part numbers from Greddy and a Google search revealed a lot of the the part numbers are the same as a Nissan part numbers for the same gaskets used on the SR20DET.

Do you think the Nissan part # is the Greddy gasket?

 

You need the flanges? If you're talking about the flanges, do you need them because they're damaged or they don't match the flanges on the pipes?

 

I think he is just talking about the gaskets.......

 

No, just the gaskets that go there. Mine are in bad shape, I'd like to use all new gaskets.

 

Just use copper silicone form-a-gasket.

Truth.

 

Thanks, will do.

What about for the turbine housing downpipe gasket? I have one but it looks well used, think I should reuse it?

 

Carefully crimp the inside edges so that the gasket has a bit of a ridge.
It should be fine after that.

If you have access to an industrial-sized belt sander, deck the mating surfaces of the downpipe and the turbine housing.

 

dayam, innuendo threadjack fail, lol

 

Thanks, When I get the turbo back I will do that, although I hate to grind off the ceramic coating on the DP.

 

That should be much easier.

 

Well, if the mating surfaces are coated, you are going to have to grind it off anyway or it will leak because the contact wont be uniform.

 

The nissan parts should match up pretty well. The turbo is the same that come stock on the rb motors for the skyline (from what I hear)

 

^ Thanks.

I decided to go with this wideband. I just have to go work the corner this weekend to earn the funds to pay for it

 

Wow fancy unit..... although I find peak and hold to be somewhat useless for AFR's considering peak is always when you let off the gas.... unless it is smart enough to stop recording when throttle is let off?

 

I Like it! Just watch where you mount the sensor unit as I found out the display cable cant be extended.

 

Was just running water wetter . IIRC the label said it prevented rust ..... WRONG !