Cool. Thanks.

The Innovate seems like an ok piece and uses a nice Bosch sensor. The price is right and my budget is getting tight with the unexpected engine rebuild. The odds and ends add up!

 

The LC-1's go through sensors on a rotary like a fat kid in a candy store....PM me and I'll show you a cheap and easy heat sync that helps a lot

You could try different fittings if that one sticks out too far to allow the drain line to hook up easily. I used a nut on the inside and outside of a straight JIC nipple...with the inside one tack welded so it doesn't loosen off..You can buy seals that have o-ring and steel washers fused together at hydraulic places that seal really well.....

 

The AEM i have has lasted 40000 miles so far and i believe they are reasonably priced .

It's important to position them as far downstream as practical to avoid overheating.

 

didn't you start a thread where we talked about widebands already? lol

 

+1 https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...33&postcount=2

 

Yes, but new stuff comes out all the time!! I didn't really want more 52mm gauges but............

 

Wow. Funny stuff there.

 

9k I can't wait until you get this all finished, you are running into most of the same dilemmas and questions I am facing, keep it up man!

 

Thanks, there are a lot of odds and ends to figure out.


VACUUM lines. Silicone? How many feet do you guys think would be sufficient?

 

I would think about 4 feet would be PLENTY for the intake vacuum lines

 

Cool, thanks. Napa apparently sells high temp silicone hose so that is where i am going to try and get it.

 

When installing the new motor do you guys think I should install the manifold and turbo before I reinstall the motor or do you think it will be in the way?

 

Install all that before..... Can't remember 100% whether or not you should leave the WG actuator on or off until the motor is in place though. The WG actuator does have to be installed before the passenger motor mount in either case though.

If NAPA doesn't have it I know I found stuff at an idustrial supplier that specializes in hose... It was called GreenLine but I doubt that they have that outside of my area, let alone Texas. I imagine there is something like that in your area though.

 

Probably not the turbo unless you don't mind scratching the engine bay paint, you will need to be moving the engine about to get it mated with the trans assuming you intend not to pull the trans in/out separately as per RRs engine removal thread

 

Ya either way with the engine lift is should be fairly simple to get that turbo on after it is mated with the tranny, I managed to do it with a 2 ton jack and a chunk of plywood accross the oil pan.

Although I have seen pics of people installing the engine with the turbo mounted.... not sure whether they had any scratching or not.

 

Have done it twice now with turbo in place (on my own) - not a problem so long as you don't try and rush things .

 

Great, thanks. I will be in no rush.

 

well I would rather drop the trans/driveshaft/PPF rather than leave them in place, I'd probably install the turbo in that case

 

You lost me, what do you mean?

 

Turbo and all the oil and coolant lines first, then drop motor. Way better.

Do the wastegate afterwards, once everything is in place.

 

Gotcha. I also may redo my oil lines to my Fluidyne oil cooler if funds allow. My clutch only has 30k on it, I am debating whether or not to replace it now as well since it will be easy.

 

Do you have access to a hoist?

 

Engine hoist or lift? Engine hoist yes.

 

Cherry picker was all I used, and it wasn't bad.

Just man up get underneath and mate the motor to the tranny (giggity). I also think a new clutch is a real good idea.

 

I'll have to do some extra push up tonight, I'm not looking forward to mating teh engine back up with the tranny.