WOW, I can't wait to see how this project goes. Keep us posted.... (pics would be nice as well...)

 

good luck stick!

 

Hello Stick, Is better to use a Haltech e11v2, Motec m800 or electromotive Tec 3r indstead use a microtech lt 12s the reason is the lack of power at the spark at top end RPM, no idle control, no oil metering pump control. That,s why we switch from the micro to haltech.
regards.

 

yes I would be very interested in a 10 sec 1320 car with stock like road track handling. I havent figured out how you are going to get that kind of power to the ground while keeping the road track capibility. Not saying it cant be done, but sure would like to see one.
olddragger

 

is this project still on time for the expected completion date...

 

Hi Stick, For the factory suspension you will need to replace the entire links for a custom made in my case i do it in cromoly tubes and polyurethane bushing the factory suspension is good upto 350 whp with no slick tires above that power you'll find a lot of problems with bended links and it need to replace the driveshaft for a titanium ones with a custom universal joints and plate adapters, the factory driveshaft cf above that power have the tend to break at the Haft. For the tranny now we are working on a richmond ROD 6 Speed tranny, the problem with the t 56 is to fit the starter motor it body is too width. as soon we finish it i'll post the pic's for how's make it. Good luck with your projects!!!! Replace the rear axles drive shaft if you plans to runs slicks, Welcome to the Club 20B Rx8

Regards
Rgonza

 

he will need more than 350hp for a car in the 10's and he HAS to run slicks for that time in the 1/4. Good info.
a 10 sec car is also going to have to have some pretty good chassis bracing/mounts etc. I have seen a car in the 10's and good on the track but it wasnt a 2 wheel drive car. You are keeping all 4 doors --right?
olddragger

 

What would be your guess for the HP needed to get into the 10s? Close to 600 maybe?

 

FD's can run 11's making only 350whp and street tires...so im guessing the RX8 needs 1000whp..hahaha

 

I'm wondering why bother with titanium when talking drive shafts....It has about the same yield strength as 4340 steel. Most titanium alloys will give you yield strength of just over 1000Mpa. In high echelons of racing 300M steel is used with high success. F1, Cart, IRL etc. 300M steel is around 1700Mpa!

Cheers
Ted

 

Stickmantijuana, good luck with your proyect, I just started a similar one but with and FD and it will be a 75% street car an 25% track car, if everything works ok I will do the same to my rx-8

https://www.rx8club.com/general-automotive-49/just-started-my-20b-fd-proyect-109624/

 

My eight (GT package) with me in it weights 3290 according to the scales when it was corner balanced. This isn't a whole lot more than an FD with me in it.

So... you should hit quick times either way.

 

dont get me wrong here--not critizing this project at all and Scott sure is good at what he does. It will be one hell of a car.!!
There is a good bit of differance between a 11 sec car and a 10 sec car guys. Remember also this is going to be for a car that is well over 3K lbs. This car at well over 3K lbs will (IMHO) need at least 500hp to do it. For example what is the new 500hp corvette running in the 1/4? Is it in the 10's. Didnt think so. It is in the 11's and it is just a little over 3100lbs What is the Viper (new one) running in the 1320? Not in the 10's. Set it up for the strip and yea-- either one of those cars will be able to get there BUT you will not be able to drive it to the road track and do as well. My point is-- a 10 sec drag car is a highly specialized machine just as a fast road car is the same. Cant have both in a 2 wheel drive daily driver without swapping some setups around.
I hope the body/chassis can take this kind of power. Scott will know.
It will be one badass car irregardless.
olddragger

 

mine only weighs 2700 lb with a full interior and OE bodywork

ok, I left out my 195 lb pot belly

20B turbo is an easy 550 hp output

it just depends how serious you want to get, couple hundred more pounds could be lost with enough money

 

oldragger, yes there's a huge difference between a 10sec and a 11sec car. much like the difference between a stock vette w/ 500 crank hp and a modified rx8 with 550-600whp w/ slicks, no? thanks for your kind words though.

tudor, thanks always for your technical expertise! scott and i haven't talked much about suspension and shaft upgrades yet, so i don't know what he's planning, but i'll surely forward the info to him. scott's done many street rx7 20b installs in the past, so i'm sure most of the reliability mods are transferrable.

just to end the discussion about feasibility of this project, i think what should be in question should be my driving skills not the car. we all know what 400-600whp front engine-rear wheel drive japanese tuner cars are capable of on countless tracks around the world. in the hands of a capable tuner like scott, i have no doubt rx8 will be capable of such performance. i just need to do some serious DE's and learn to use little more power every time i go to tracks or autox with the boost controller. i'll probably start where i left off, which was 300whp last i checked!!!

 

Good luck Stick! I am sure we will hear about this one! I would love to take her down the strip one time. But then you would have to try and get me out!
olddragger

 

would 18x10 w/ 295/45/18 fit in the front & rear wells without removing the liners?

 

I believe it can be done on the rear but not the front.

 

You will hav to roll the rears. You will need at a minimum a +43 offset, but most likely +38. It will be a balancing act at that point. You want to get the inside of the rim as close to the inside of the well without touching, and then just deal with however much you need to roll the fenders..


Edit: Just checked... that is indeed the very one I use. Great construction actually. Expect to replace the pump in about a year.

 

But it need above 300 +more to reach the lows 10's

 

You will definately not be able to fit those on the front. As for the back it is going to be pretty darn close if you get the right offset, and whether or not you are lowered any. I am running 19x10 w/275/30/19 lowered with Tein S-tech's and no rolled fenders here. But I wouldn't dare let anybody in my back seat that weighed more than my 2yr old daughter.

 

just a little update:

20b project had been pushed back a month. scott says he'll definitely make the new deadline. i think we all know how insane his work hours have become lately.

custom intake manifold is being fab'd. stock one won't fit! if that puts a smile on ur face, i think u'll find the result quite shocking.

by the way, for the sake of simplicity, budget, and time, roll cage and nitrous are being scrapped for now. dry sump idea is also on the chopping block, as it'll make the installation much more complicated.

 

I saw your car yesterday. Unless you're standing next to the engine bay and looking in, you would not think there's an engine in there at all. It's so low and far back that you can't see it.

 

Actually, I have a very good alternative for you. You don't need him to finish since he's cleared out all the useless crap from the engine bay. All you now need are a few midgets to get into the engine bay and do the flintstones move.

 

^lol