2010 Turbo Build: a.k.a. "Project JETS3T 8"
01-07-2011, 02:35 PM
#176
Might work....but you will definitely end up with more heat transferred to the coolant at the iron in that area....time will tell if that becomes an issue
I think the inserts are made of something similar to inconel....so I can't see a cheap alternative that will not melt in that area?
Thanks for the experimentation...that's what it is going to take to get more out of this engine.....Took a lot to get the other engines to the cookie cutter stage as well...so we need brave souls that are willing to play around and grenade multiple engines trying things out of the box
I think the inserts are made of something similar to inconel....so I can't see a cheap alternative that will not melt in that area?
Thanks for the experimentation...that's what it is going to take to get more out of this engine.....Took a lot to get the other engines to the cookie cutter stage as well...so we need brave souls that are willing to play around and grenade multiple engines trying things out of the box
01-07-2011, 03:03 PM
#177
Might work....but you will definitely end up with more heat transferred to the coolant at the iron in that area....time will tell if that becomes an issue
I think the inserts are made of something similar to inconel....so I can't see a cheap alternative that will not melt in that area?
Thanks for the experimentation...that's what it is going to take to get more out of this engine.....Took a lot to get the other engines to the cookie cutter stage as well...so we need brave souls that are willing to play around and grenade multiple engines trying things out of the box
I think the inserts are made of something similar to inconel....so I can't see a cheap alternative that will not melt in that area?
Thanks for the experimentation...that's what it is going to take to get more out of this engine.....Took a lot to get the other engines to the cookie cutter stage as well...so we need brave souls that are willing to play around and grenade multiple engines trying things out of the box
01-07-2011, 08:26 PM
#180
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Thread Starter
-The motor has to be torn down first.
-There are 4 roll-pins in each side housing, two on each side, so a total of 12 roll-pins if you're removing all of the exhaust inserts.
-Use a #6 1/2" sheet metal screw and thread it into the roll-pin as far as it will go, probably about a 1/4".
-Then use either the prying end of a hammer (or some other preferred means) to pry the roll pin out (or tap it out by hitting the lip of the screw upwards)...it isn't as easy as it sounds, you will probably break or strip a few screws during the whole process.
-The rear housing has two Allen head set screws on the trans. facing side that need to be screwed out first to access those roll-pins. Replace those Allen head set screws when you're done.
-I'd recommend plugging the rest of the exposed holes with the same type of Allen head set screws that are in the rear housing, I actually had a tiny exhaust leak because I didn't do it the first time. Use a little bit of Loctite Threadlocker Blue or Red on the threads. You'll also need to tap the holes of course, extremely easy.
That's pretty much it.
Good luck.
-There are 4 roll-pins in each side housing, two on each side, so a total of 12 roll-pins if you're removing all of the exhaust inserts.
-Use a #6 1/2" sheet metal screw and thread it into the roll-pin as far as it will go, probably about a 1/4".
-Then use either the prying end of a hammer (or some other preferred means) to pry the roll pin out (or tap it out by hitting the lip of the screw upwards)...it isn't as easy as it sounds, you will probably break or strip a few screws during the whole process.
-The rear housing has two Allen head set screws on the trans. facing side that need to be screwed out first to access those roll-pins. Replace those Allen head set screws when you're done.
-I'd recommend plugging the rest of the exposed holes with the same type of Allen head set screws that are in the rear housing, I actually had a tiny exhaust leak because I didn't do it the first time. Use a little bit of Loctite Threadlocker Blue or Red on the threads. You'll also need to tap the holes of course, extremely easy.
That's pretty much it.
Good luck.
01-11-2011, 09:56 PM
#184
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Woohoo! You better be there! Who else is gonna take all those new orders for a Turblown Engineering 425rwhp Turbo kit!?
01-15-2011, 01:28 PM
#187
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Good luck RG!
01-15-2011, 06:39 PM
#188
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Had a question I know u chose to use throttle by cable instead of wire and..
I know everyone had there own goals. By any chance have u tried looking for a bigget throttle body that was for the electronic version or u didn't want to be bothered with the search.
I know everyone had there own goals. By any chance have u tried looking for a bigget throttle body that was for the electronic version or u didn't want to be bothered with the search.
01-15-2011, 10:54 PM
#189
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(Note* Again, this is just personal preference, I am not setting or stating a precedence that the cable operated TB is better than a dbw.)
01-19-2011, 05:52 PM
#192
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01-19-2011, 06:03 PM
#193
Bat Mobile Driver
thats good to hear, everythings leading to the dyno...Thank for the update
01-19-2011, 11:19 PM
#195
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01-22-2011, 12:16 AM
#196
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Injector Dynamics 2200cc Secondaries/P2's are in...
Injector Dynamics 1000cc Primaries are in...
Haltech TPS mounted...
Injector Dynamics 1000cc Primaries are in...
Haltech TPS mounted...
Last edited by JETS3T8; 01-22-2011 at 12:35 AM.
01-22-2011, 11:01 AM
#198
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