Might work....but you will definitely end up with more heat transferred to the coolant at the iron in that area....time will tell if that becomes an issue

I think the inserts are made of something similar to inconel....so I can't see a cheap alternative that will not melt in that area?

Thanks for the experimentation...that's what it is going to take to get more out of this engine.....Took a lot to get the other engines to the cookie cutter stage as well...so we need brave souls that are willing to play around and grenade multiple engines trying things out of the box

 

well said sire

 

This is very roughly the idea I would like to try . It leaves the body of the sleeve in place with the divider removed and a deflector attached to the iron .

 

silly question how do you remove the exhaust inserts?

 

-The motor has to be torn down first.
-There are 4 roll-pins in each side housing, two on each side, so a total of 12 roll-pins if you're removing all of the exhaust inserts.
-Use a #6 1/2" sheet metal screw and thread it into the roll-pin as far as it will go, probably about a 1/4".
-Then use either the prying end of a hammer (or some other preferred means) to pry the roll pin out (or tap it out by hitting the lip of the screw upwards)...it isn't as easy as it sounds, you will probably break or strip a few screws during the whole process.
-The rear housing has two Allen head set screws on the trans. facing side that need to be screwed out first to access those roll-pins. Replace those Allen head set screws when you're done.
-I'd recommend plugging the rest of the exposed holes with the same type of Allen head set screws that are in the rear housing, I actually had a tiny exhaust leak because I didn't do it the first time. Use a little bit of Loctite Threadlocker Blue or Red on the threads. You'll also need to tap the holes of course, extremely easy.

That's pretty much it.
Good luck.

 

Nope, make it part of the manifold. That way it is completely replaceable. Split the flow for (4) exhaust runners. Back to the true (4) port.

 

I would argue that for maximum port runner size you need to get rid of the divider . Leaving the divider there is always going to seriously restrict the flow on both sides whether the sleeve is still there or not.

 

After seeing what we hit, I really think you can hit 500+rwhp Richie. Probably won't take more than 16psi...

All of us will be there for the dyno pulls

 

That was a serious milestone E! It's definitely more reassuring now with the results you guys got that 500+ is just within reach now with my setup.

Woohoo! You better be there! Who else is gonna take all those new orders for a Turblown Engineering 425rwhp Turbo kit!?

 

Throttle Cable to pedal modification complete, now onto the actual linkage to the throttle body...

 

Sweet!!!

 

I want one!!! wait...

Good luck RG!

 

Had a question I know u chose to use throttle by cable instead of wire and..
I know everyone had there own goals. By any chance have u tried looking for a bigget throttle body that was for the electronic version or u didn't want to be bothered with the search.

 

Good question, actually no I didn't look for a larger dbw throttle body, it was just personal preference that I went with a standard cable operated throttle body for my setup. In addition to the custom fab work to get it bolted up to the stock uim I just hooked up a 3-wire Haltech TPS and an '85 RX-7 throttle cable to the DNA Motoring 80mm TB and I was done. The return for me will be well worth the extra couple of steps; the stock PCM can try to put me in limp mode if it doesn't like something now, but it won't have any effect, partially also because fuel and ignition are controlled by the Adaptronic EMS, instantaneous/predictable throttle response and of course 10mm larger throttle body..plus it LOOKS SO much better! (This setup also deletes one of the many potential "unknown" variables when something does and will go wrong)

(Note* Again, this is just personal preference, I am not setting or stating a precedence that the cable operated TB is better than a dbw.)

 

Lol...

Thx!

 

hows everything coming along???

 

Very slOOOOwly. I'm waiting for my ID injectors and new Adaptronic Select EMS before I jump on the dyno. Oh and I have to replace the ECT sensor and plug, the EMS was reading like 250 degrees...and that was at cold startup in the morning.

 

thats good to hear, everythings leading to the dyno...Thank for the update

 

Hes waiting on us to send him all new Injector Dynamics injectors...Which should be tommorrow...

 

Das right...always hookin' it up with the parts , and if you don't have it, you can always get it for me, and if it doesn't exist...well, then you make your own.

 

Injector Dynamics 2200cc Secondaries/P2's are in...



Injector Dynamics 1000cc Primaries are in...



Haltech TPS mounted...

 

ok I finally get to see an installed fuel rail..what kind of. fuel regulator did u run with.

 

Aeromotive 13110 - Pro-Series EFI Regulator

 

 

Win Indeed.