How do I match up the new plug wires with the old? The new NGK's have 1 set of blue caps, wires numbered 1 and 2 and one set of black caps also numbered 1 and 2. How do these correspond to the leading and trailing front and rear plugs? Does it even matter as long as
I have the right coil and plug paired properly?

Thanks!

 

No, it doesn't matter which wire from plug to coil, but I think you will find they are different lengths, fit the wires so they are a comfortable fit, ie; dont have 1 wire with heaps of slack and another that is stretched .IIRC, the blue wires are for the rear rotor.

 

I found it helpful to label old wires before removal with masking tape, then match up length with new ones. Just DON'T cross anything up!
Very bad!
New engine time bad!
There's a useful diagram here somewhere, can't remember where.

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d37/Jedi54/coils.jpg

This may be the diagram you speak of BC

 

Yes, thanks that's one, but RIWWP recently posted one with color that was cool.
Sorry, I suck at posting links and other things.
Old Fartitis.

 

Tell me about it, I tried 4 times to put RIWWP's colour diagram up, I think old fartitis is catching.

 

Thanks guys, the wires are on :^)
Just getting her out of winter storage. Feels like Christmas!!

 

Thanks . Appreciate the link. I will try the search engine next time. Perhaps it is time to retire the dumb question section, as it appears all the questions have been answered. And that is not sarcasm.

 

That would still require you to either 1. Read the entire thread + RIWWP's "Safe" thread or 2. Search within them

 

I disagree.
Plenty of dumb questions left in the pipe.

Just give me some time.

Finally, a beautiful Spring day!
Yard work, burgers & brats, then Royals vs Injuns.

Life is good!

 

No, thread wont be retired. 'Dumb' is the classification given by people who are not asking the question. Generally by the people that already know the answer. It's going to take a lot of convincing to close the thread, and only from people that dont know the answers

 

Go Royals!

 

I have my fire proof under wear on so here goes. This is the Dumb question thread right?; Ok: have read many treads on cooling and the fans and after much reading about setting the ecu for the fans to come on earlier , no one has said how to do this?. I was at Lake wood racing the other day getting my ecu reset after my OMP dies and went into limp mode. I asked the Mazda mechanic to set my fan temps to come on 10 degrees lower and he said they can't do that?. I can't do it so begs the question: Where can I go in Colorado to get into the ecu to reset my fan temps to a lower setting?.

 

You need software that can reflash the stock ECU
Currently 2 viable options :

Cobb accessport
Mazdaedit

There are other ways but they require hardware.

 

I can only imagine that the IDS machine at the dealership could do it too, if the tech knew how to operate it. I've always wondered what kind of trouble I could get into with one of them.

 

What is the diff. Between a Shrinkage and a Bass ?

 

A troll....

 

@Brettus: Thx I kind of figured that, I was really asking where I could take my car to have it done?. I am a little financially drained today after I just dropped $1600.00 on a new OMP that died. I did ask the mechanic who did the job but he refused siting company policy?, what ever that ment?. Any way , I would like and plan to buy a cobb /passport in the future, but in the mean time I thought maybe some one here might know some one in the Denver Colorado area?.
Thx.

 

It has about 92,000+ miles on it.
I really hope it's not the compression, it's bc of that that I had to replace the engine exactly a year ago. But after driving the car for a while and restarting the car it does just about the same but before the engine change it wouldn't start at all for a long time. A week ago my car actually turned off on me, I hadn't even driven it for a long time.
It could be a sensor, the engine light has been on for a bit.
It isn't time for an oil change.
And about a month ago I had the car towed to Mazda bc it needed to be deflooded.
I'm utterly frustrated bc I have no clue what is wrong with it!

 

Find out what the CEL code is.....that is usually the place to start

 

I have tried searching on all of my questions but number 4, and that is only because the info on the two radiators on the sites they are sold is limited.

I had a few questions on mods that are on my car, to help better understand. And yes I have tried searching and found nothing my sluggish brain could sort out or make heads or tails of.

1. The BHR Ignition: Can I install just regular NGK Laser Iridium spark plugs?

2. Can I (and possibly how?) turn down the boost on my turbo to see a drop in temperature on the engine as a whole.

3. Going back to ? 2, If I do turn down the boost, do I have to do a re-tune?

4. What radiator would you recommend the BHR for 525 or the Mazmart for 625? Or if there is just as good for a cheaper price by recommendation that would be nice as well, I'm not cheap but saving a dollar here can be spent there.

5. What are the three protruding notches with the placstic caps right behind my MAF?

6. If I do a battery reset, as in unplug it and plug it back in, will I have to re-tune?

7. What other ways (and just as efficient hopefully) can i regulate the temp of my engine. Right now I'm using the coolant temp from my AccessPORT but thats pretty much moot if I install a BHR Radiator and want to know the difference in coooling according to the BHR site.

 

1. Yes (but based on your next few questions, shouldn't you be using special plugs for FI?)

2 / 3 . Sorry dont know

4. Both will have similar performance, can't go wrong with either. Mazmart is the Ron Davis while BHR is griffin. Both are nice beefy rads. For the price and support factor i'd go BHR.

5. Vac lines, on OEM they would have lines that go to oil filler neck, etc. Not sure they would be populated on a boosted application.

6. No

 

Thank you for your help. But since I have FI (Greddy) I still won't have to re-tune on a battery reset? That one bothers me the most so I have to check and recheck.

Also, I didn't know you used different plugs for FI.

 

You will have to wait for one of the more knowledgable folks to chime in regarding boost, but I know there are a few members on the forum that run colder plugs. And tunes are flashed to the non volatile section of the ECU so it shouldn't get reset on a power disconnect.

 

Thank You!