Most likely, intake valves were sticky.

Drive it warm, 15 min, then drive like you stole it, go through the rev range at least to 7500RPM, last valve opens at 7250.

 

Dumb questions:

When an engine is replaced with a new engine, are all the serpentine belts replaced with new ones?

Does a dashcover effect the airbag deployment on the passenger side?

The seat warmers, is it relatively easy to remove the leather seat cover and can the electrical connection get disconnected over time?

 

I would expect néw belts only if they needed replacing. And they would be on the invoice

Likely yes...the airbag cover is made so it cracks open like it is now when the airbag deploys. How much of an issue will depend on how the cover is attached and what it is made out of

If you have done upholstery before and have hog ring pliers and time it isn't that bad...but it's likely cheap we to get someone to ldo it who knows what they are doing

 

So I'm trying to diagnose an odd rattle in a friends car. It's making a sort of "rattling" sound when going over rough roads. ONLY when going on rough roads. NEVER on a smooth road. If going over a bump, if the bump is smooth it won't make a noise, no matter how big it is. But if the bump is rough, it'll rattle. Going over a little stone or a cats eye is enough for it to rattle. It's a sort of cracking noise. Like stuff inside the glove box rattling when going over bumps.

Ive replaced the end links and the sway bar bushings. No luck. Yesterday I had the front left wheel jacked up and was bumping the wheel with a crowbar, and I noticed the shock mount nut slightly moving up and down about a quarter of an inch. Probably less than that. I lowered the car and tried pressing on the chassis and rocking it up and down to see if the nut still moves, but it didnt. It only happened with the wheel up and bouncing it with a crowbar. Now I don't know much about the RX-8's complicated suspension, so I gotta ask, is this normal? On a typical car, it shouldn't move, but I had a look at the RX-8's front strut diagram and it's pretty complicated.

I'll attach a pic of the said nut.Attachment 212664

 

This must be an rx8 thing. Mine has the same rattle. I didn't notice any change in handling or steering, so for now I've dismissed it as being the hood support (thin metal bar that holds up the hood). It doesn't fit as snug as it once did In the horizontal position. Perhaps someone else will chime in. But that's all I got for ya.. I'll be watching to see if I'm even close.

 

Thanks for the prompt reply wankinit. It can't be that in this car. The hood support fits snugly. Steering is affected in this car. There's very little steering feel. There's also a tiny bit of play. About a quarter of an inch.

 

Can the front shock mount nut move up and down while lifting the wheel with a crowbar while the car has been lifted up? It only moves about a quarter of an inch. Trying to figure out if it's normal for RX-8s.

 

I'm pretty sure all nuts should be fastened tight. Your on the right track and it probably is a loose nut. The shock tower nuts x3(on top) should be tightened with the car on the ground. I can't remember if the oem shock has the one nut in the middle like my coilovers, that came loose on me once and it did rattle. The steering should be sharp with little to no play. Good luck and give us your findings!

 

quick question... I currently have bhr ignition and magnaflow catback on my 8 and plan on ordering an aem cai, ap midpipe, and cobb access port with the mazda maniac program. Will i be ok running the midpipe without the tune or is it safer to get the cobb ap first? I can only afford one of the two upgrades at this time so i was just curious which one would be better to get first. thanks

 

You don't need to tune for a midpipe.

You'll be fine.

Travis

 

Yeah those 3 nuts are tight. There's the shock nut in the middle, screwed into the shock tube or bar. That whole piece comes up as I bounce the wheel when the car is on a lift. On a normal car, I'd say that's not normal. But I don't know about this car's fancy suspension.

When that nut came lose on your car, what kind of noise did it make? How did you fix it? I looked at the parts diagram and the top mount, instead of just one part like on other cars, has lots of tiny rubber parts and stoppers

Steering feedback is bad. Feels very numb and wooden.

 

I have always wondered why people recommend better batteries for cars. I know they usually help, but I can't understand how having more CCA can help when the starter itself can't make use of it?

For example, according to ohms law, the 2kw starter will only need 166A to receive 2000w. P=VI, I=P/V 2000/12=166A.

Sure there's obviously some other load, but why do you need 500+CCA batteries?

Thanks for answering!!

 

Because batteries produce electrons by chemical reaction, they will take some time to reach the full required current. Usually, higher capacity/higher quality batteries will have more efficient reaction that can reach the drawn current faster and maintain it consistently for longer period of time.

 

Mine just made a tapping noise that got progressively worse. When I found it, I was able to finger tighten it, then when I got home I wrenched it but not too tight because I was afraid that it would crush the internals. I checked it again a few months later and it was a bit loose again so I cranked it a bit tighter. Hasn't come loose since. Perhaps the shock is no good anymore? Or maybe over tightened? It would be nice if you could compare it to another rx8. Mine is currently in the shop getting turbofied.

 

how would you start it pretty much

 

Loose or missing fasteners on the plastic undertray can rattle.
Check that.

 

Looked in this thread, https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...ries-i-230326/ and I'm too stupid to be sure what the main difference between S1 and S2 pump assembly are. Is it basically that S2 sucks fuel from a hose that would rest in the bottom of the tank?

 

Thanks BigCajun. I've checked all those. Everything's tight. It's clearly suspension or steering related. Can't seem to pinpoint where it's coming from.

 

I did the Series 2 fuel pump switch after failures with Series 1 pump as it aged on my 2008 40th Anniversary edition. The main thing is the Series 2 pump is from a different manufacturer than the Series 1, and the Series 2 pump doesn't seem to have the failures at high load-low fuel levels, and in hard left turns where the Series 1 can fail. Mazda listened to feedback on the Series 1 pump and the Series 2 pump is an improvement in performance and reliability, according to many Series 2 pump users who have commented.

You do have to make slight modifications to the input line ,and to one of the electrical connectors on the Series 2 pump to make it work in the Series 1 cars. I had a local rotary wrench do the work, and it was no big deal. He followed the same DIY you read here on the forum. The Series 2 cars have a one gallon larger fuel tank than the Series 1 cars, but both Series 1 and Series 2 pumps have the fuel line hose resting near the bottom of the tank. I hope this answers your question.

BTW, my Series 2 pump has worked flawlessly (knock on wood) for thousands of miles,in all conditions of load and low fuel, since I switched.

 

I have a dumb question. If someone has a warranty in place but say..they are getting their engine replace due to the warranty, can the customer keep the core of the part they are replacing?

 

no, you can't. Unless the dealer doesn't care. They use the parts to claim the warranty

 

Thanks.

 

i dont know how this website works about posting stuff so i hoping you can help. i have a 04 100,000 miles my problem is when i go to get on it, around 7000 rpms the car will bog down lack of power does not want to go if i keep on it the check engine light will flash till i let off the gas. searched that and it said misfire. changed my spark plugs, wires and coils around 6 months ago. pulled one of them couple days ago and it looks bad. would the condensation from the cold have factor in it and i have oil coming out of my intake that just started and its not from over filling seems to happen when i get on i.

 

My guess is your compression is down due to side seal wear , and oil from crank case is being forced into the intake and fouling the plugs . A compression test will tell you . If you want to keep her running without a rebuild get a catch can and clean up the plugs then see how she runs after that .

 

Never mind, turns out my oil cooler lines are leaking (at least three of them).
Having all of them replaced next week.