My ticking sounds is coming from the area of the engine where the intake tube meets the engine around the oil cap. It ticks when the engine is running. What is the TB?

I was thinking my ticking sounded a lot like the people who have SSV's that tick. But still havent found a good answer.

My main question revolves around whether it is causing significant damage? Or can I leave it ticking? It doesnt seem to affect performance.

 

You guys mind dumbing that down 3 clicks for me? Or just point in the right direction to learn more.

I only know very little about the cobb, from researching on here. In fact "Tuning" all together is new to me. I'm not really interested in more "HP", just want the OMP to step it up a few notches.

ATR? -accesstuner race? <--someone pm'ed me saying they can give me the maps for the omp if I have this. But from what I googled seems like this uses the Cobb, which I do not have.

Dwell? <---

-Shawn

 

Oooo sure sorry
Yes ATR = Access Tuner Race
ATR is a software package that allows you to create and modify your own Engine Maps. You can modify the ones from Cobb as well such as the Stage 1 map or Stock Style Map. Most people start with the Cobb Stock Style and go from there.
However some maps, like the ones you get from the MazdaManiac Custom Service are locked and can only be modified by Jeff.
To get the ATR Software you must own a Cobb AP device, for two reasons:
1) You must provide your Cobb AP s/n when you submit a request for the a free copy of the ATR software. (I'm not sure if the ATR software is married to that specific Cobb AP device but suspect that it is somehow)
2) Well you need to the Cobb AP to load the new engine map to the ECU

That all being said you do NOT require a copy of the ATR software to use a Cobb AP.


Ignitor Dwell
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-engine-tuning-forum-63/coil-dwell-settings-protuner-accessport-178635/

Dwell is basically the amount of time a coil requires to build its magnetic field between discharges.
Different coils require different dwell times.
This is all I'm going to say of it as it always turns in to a violent discussion of which I am not technically smart enough to defend myself.
As it stands now, I've probably awoken the RX8 Dwell gods who will shortly descend upon me and this post for not getting it right (again).

 

I will definitely replace the module myself if it is not covered by the warranty; based on threads I read it should be pretty simple: take glove box out, look for blue module, disconnect and take out two bolts, replace. I also found out it can be "hacked" to bypass certain relays and remove the DRL function - I may look into that as well since the old module will be a throw-away regardless, it might be worth a shot.

To clarify your second comment: If the repair guy shuts down the car before the engine warms up it won't automatically mean it will get flooded? This may indeed be a dumb question but I have only owned the car for 2 months and just want to be sure before I even take the car in...

 

Correct it does not mean it will automatically be flooded. The engine really only needs to run 30-60 seconds, it does not need to come up to operating temperature. (this is another hotly discussed issue with many opinions)

All I can say is that I have an 05 and it happened to me once my first year of ownership and never since.
There have been plenty of ECU updates to mitigate this on the Series I .... not so sure about the Series II but I would imagine it's been further addressed.

Besides the inconvenience there really is no harm done if the engine gets flooded.
The spark plugs may get fouled and if they do a really good job at flooding the vehicle, I've heard you can get fuel in the oil, which isn't good.

Here is what I've seen others do:
Tape a note to the steering wheel indicating that this is a rotary engine vehicle. The engine can be prone to flooding if not allowed to operate for a couple minutes between restarts.

If they still flood it, post back and we will all grab our pitch forks and torches ... deal?

 

lol- sounds like a plan!

Seriously, thanks for taking the time to explain and clarify, I feel better about leaving my car with them now.

Funny, I never felt so "attached" to a car before... I must be spending too much time around here!

 

How many quarts of oil is "too much" when it goes to your intake?

Finally, I can ask a stupid question.

 

Thank You so much for that info!
But now I REALLY WANT a Cobb accessport!
Sheesh, why can't I just **** money...

-Shawn

 

this is very very useful info. I will now feel more comfortable leaving my car with strangers now

 

For those of you with the AEM and MS intake, how often do you change the filter? I was changing my oil the other day and saw that it was a bit oily. Also, where is the best place to purchase a new one - AEM, Ebay, Amazon, etc.?

 

?
I don't have a AEM or MS Speed intake but I thought the filters where wash a wear just like the K&N filters.

You should be able to go to a performance store and buy a K&N recharge kit.

Follow the instructions in the kit.

Unless damaged I'm pretty sure all those filters are reusable.

 

do you have the ms/ aem conditioner? I plan on cleaning mine when I take her out of storage every year.
If you don't store, I'd say once a year should do it. Maybe even every 15-20k miles

 

I'm curious too about filters for aftermarket intakes... Although, I dont know how an air filter can damage itself, unless you are in a serious front end accident, and it crushes everything

quickstory, my sister took her G35 sedan to a mechanic (not sure if it was a dealership), for whatever reason.. And I believe that mechanic replaced her air filter very recently before her incident, or something.. I just remember it was just replaced. The guy comes out with her air filter split in 2 and tells her that that was the problem..
In case you didnt already know, filters dont split into 2 on their own ever.. HELLA SHADY

/story

 

I didn't know that the filter can be washed/recharged? I don't have the MS/AEM conditioner, maybe I'll try the K&N recharge kit..I wondering at what point does it get so soiled that it cannot be washed?

Thanks for the input!

Edit: The AEM website sells a 32 oz. spray cleaner and also has a quick tutorial video.

 

Damage might occur on those MS and AEM setups because they hang so low.
IIRC you could get damage from a stone or something

Your sisters story ... pffff dude that sounds fishy fo-sure!
I have never heard of a filter splitting.

 

Here's my dumb question:

Should I keep using my RX8 as a daily driver, or should I get something else for a daily, and keep the RX8 for weekends?

I've only had my RX8 for 4 months, and I love it. But I am racking up the Kms (or miles for the rest of you) driving it to work everyday, and onsite to clients. Lets face it, this isn't a cheap car to run, and if I'm honest it is costing more to run than anticipated.

This is not a complaint about MPG or anything. I love the car and will not part with it, but in Auckland rush hour traffic, it really isn't any more fun to drive than anything else, and I'm wondering if I would be better of getting a beater as a daily driver, and saving the kms on the RX8 for when they can be enjoyed.

Thoughts?

 

scott, if you can afford it, do it.

 

yes if you can afford it.. Personally, just driving to work and getting 12 mpg for 120 or 130 miles and having to fill up once a week was tough on me because im still paying it off and im not making that much money, so its at a standstill of my actual profits cuz the gas keeps dumping out of it, thus not making it worth while to drive it all the time, despite the fun of being in it.. cops also play a factor because of my car color, but oh well there.. thats why I got a new daily driver (see signature)

 

Just use the aem solution for cleaning remember the standard aem filter doesn't need oil. I'd say it's time to get a new filter when you start seeing holes in the filter

 

Hi guys, I've searched for info on this but haven't found everything I need.

I need to replace my Neutral Switch (I have CEL code P0850). Car is '04 MT. I've been having trouble locating the part online. Some sites list the "netural safety switch" but I'm not sure if that's the same part or just for the AT.

Does anyone know the part number for the Neutral Switch for a MT?

I've seen in a few posts that the Neutral Switch is now the same part as the reverse/backup switch--does that mean I can order the backup switch and use it for the Neutral Switch? It seems obvious, I know, but I want to be sure I'm understanding correctly.

Thanks!

 

Good question
I'm not entirely sure.

Bump for an answer.
I'll also see what I can dig up

 

K - just reporting back on my trip to the mechanic (see post #474):
The DRL was fine, needed new bulbs only... had to pay for replacement.
I posted a note to the steering wheel as suggested by wcs - they didn't flood the car and everything went fine, so no need for pitch forks and torches!

Cheers

 

Great news, thanks for the update.

 

I couldn't find exactly the answer to your question, which isn't stupid btw.
I think you just didn't search or know how to correctly.
Best way to search the site is like this
Type this in to google not including the quotes "site:rx8club.com reverse switch"

I would type your question in to this thread ... which looks awesome, Ash8 should be able to get the exact number you need:
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=167977&page=12

Here is another epic thread by Jon316G, if you feel like getting your hands dirty.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-test-neutral-reverse-switch-200453/

Perhaps a useful PDF in Post #4
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/neutral-reverse-sensor-part-numbers-206917/

Help something is helpful here
Cheers

 

Hey man ... nice meeting you yesterday ... I would say take it to the dealer since you still have your cat, etc

Thanks for helping me with my bumper