My Car I backed up into a rock I put a dent complete with hole in the plastic a couple inches wide under the bumper between the tail pipes. Any suggestions I want to fix it my self?

 

Repairing damage as you've described is VERY difficult for a DIY'er if you ever want it to look decent again. You can try welding the plastic or buying the Pep Boys products claiming they'll work for such a fix. But IMO the only proper way is to buy a new (or possibly a reman'd) cover. The ENTIRE cover should then be prepped and painted with special products to aid adhesion and keep the paint flexible. And that should be done with the cover OFF the car.
I've seen guys try to do it themselves...and never seen it turn out particularly well. If the rest of the car looks good, I recommend you have it fixed professionally so it stays that way.

 

A picture may be helpful.

 

If its small lever....its the headlight adjuster. If it's big it is the endlink....

 

Lol I know this question is really dumb but I need to know. So when I start my car, the brake (!) light comes on just fine, but if I set the parking at any point, the light stays off. On my last MT I'm rather sure the light came on when I pulled brake (this car was 6 years ago), and the brake light comes on in my boyfriends new mustang.

So, is this an 8 thing? Or do I have a sensor broken somewhere? The brake itself works fine.

 

Check the switch that is on the front of the parking brake lever....it likely stuck in the closed position

 

Is having the vacuum chamber necessary? The nipple on the vacuum chamber appeared to be cut in half diagonally so air was seeping in and the line didn't have a good seal.

I removed the chamber and it's lines on both ends, capped the nipple behind the throttle body and capped the nipple where the vacuum line goes into the VFAD solenoid.

Obviously I did something wrong since it's still reporting that it's lean.

 

I noticed some minor scratches in the paint at the pinch welds, presumably the result of jacking the car up/down over the course of it's life. I'd like to apply some form of sealant to protect against rust formation. I'm planning on cleaning the area with phosphoric acid, and then spraying with some form of sealing/rust preventing spray (the car has an undercoating that is black so color matching shouldn't be too hard).

Does anyone have any suggestions for what type of rust prevention sprays they have used in the past and have had good results with? I have tried a few from the local auto parts stores, but never got good results (which may have been because the rust was simply too advanced by the time I applied the spray). I've heard good things about POR15 but I have yet to be able to find it locally.

If possible, I would also like to apply a the same (or similar) product on the oil cooler lines. I've been using WD40 and applying it twice a year, but I'm all ears for a more effective, more permanent solution.

 

I am relagated to asking here because this is titled "Dumb question thread" right?. My question is....How does one up load a picture of my 8 for the avitar box?. I queeried "How to up load a vaitar pic and nothing was offered. I went to "Edit your avitar" but again there is no box or any thing to click on to up load a pic to use in the avitar box>?. Thanks for any help there.


Thought i had better come back here and say that upon a little more looking i found out how to up load pics by going to Edit profile picture. Thanks !.

 

Yes, you can remove the VFAD - its not a device for power – it's just a tuning device for noise. Under most driving conditions (low RPM, low power) it draws intake air through the fabric duct just to reduce intake noise. At 5250 RPM, the valve opens allowing intake air to bypass the long fabric tube and reducing the pressure drop. You can remove it as you did by capping the vacuum hose and nipple on throttle body after running the engine over 5250 RPM to open the VFAD intake, or just removing the vacuum operated intake valve and intake. If you have capped the throttle body with a good seal and run the RPMs past 5250 opening the valve, or removed it, the engine definitely shouldn't have a trim problem caused by disconnecting the VFAD.

If the STFT rises higher than 15-20% at idle and drops at higher rpms, most likely you have a vacuum leak. If the STFT is close to zero at idle, but elevates to 15-20% at higher rpms, the problem could be caused a faulty or dirty MAF (mass air flow) sensor, clogged catalytic converter or low fuel pressure.

Make sure you have checked ALL the vacuum lines for cracks or disconnects. Also, check the entire intake boot for any rips or cracks or leaking connections, make sure the air filter box is properly closed, and check around intake manifold for leaks. After all that, sometimes the MAF sensor just gets dirty and gives false air flow readings causing the engine to run lean. Clean it only with cleaner made specifically for a MAF. If all else fails, as the Godfather said:If this doesn't show anything, you may have a O2 sensor fault, clogged or dirty fuel injectors, fuel delivery issues, or exhaust restrictions such as a clogged catalytic converter.

 

Thanks for the info Rx8 Dave, I guess it's back to the drawing board.

 

If you've clicked "User CP" and the "Edit your avatar" (versus "Edit profile picture" - which is different from the avatar, and doesn't show up on threads), and it still doesn't work, the only thing I can think of is that the program won't accept an avatar until you have a certain number of posts (I don't know how many). If I'm wrong and/or you're still having a problem with the avatar maybe a Moderator will chime in.

 

Glad to help; best of luck!

 

I've heard good things about Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and POR-15, but you need to prep. and apply them properly (Google them; also, there are some comparisons on the web). You may have to order direct online from whomever you choose. Because of the high heat and danger of corrosion under the application, I'm not sure I would apply a rust coating on the oil cooler lines other than what you're doing already.

 

In my experience with POR-15, it adheres/encapsulates rust fine, but it doesn't stick to painted surfaces very well. And it's hard and brittle. Although it's probably not an issue in your case, it also doesn't tolerate U.V. exposure and will discolor. The other thing about POR-15...and probably other such products, is that you'd better glove up. Once dry, it will have to wear off your skin. If your working upside down, a bunny suit might be appropriate.
IMO, you want to stay with something flexible...K I S S...maybe just some simple spray undercoating since that's what you already have.

 

Rx8 Dave: Thanks , you are probably correct . I will wait for a few weeks or so and try again.If it does not work them maybe i can PM one of the mods for an answer. My guess is you are right.

 

Hey guys just maken sure my assumption is correct .... My passenger floor board, seat rails and center console has recently began to get really hot ... Enough to b quite uncomfortable to the touch the metal on the seat rails ... This is do to CAT getting crazy hot rite ??!?!? Bad "coils, wires or plugs" maken me dump fuel on it rite :/ ...

 

Quite likely. If it has gone on for a while the cat could be damaged.
Best to drop it & inspect it to be sure.
No CEL?

 

Make sure you didn't lose your heat shield, or that someone did not remove it.

If you end up replacing the pipe get it coated in ceramic, and enjoy cooler cabin temps and not having one's drinks reheated at stop lights.



If you need to, insulate the floorboard under the carpet with thermal tape, or high temp 3M HVAC duct insulation (200+ plus) You can tell the difference because good aluminium tape will rape your fingers and give you 1000 cuts when you try and apply it.


If you are dumping fuel, it isn't the cat. Fuel is the cooling agent in the combustion process of the RX8, it cools more than it actually combusts. If you are running lean or premix, that blocks a Cat. see how much your MAF can flow at WOT and take a log of STFT and LTFT and see if you can get 200g/s. Anything lower than 100 at WOT and I bet you have an issue.

 

Thank ypu for that pic. I always wanted to see the entire under part of the rx8.

 

@badinfluence: You wrote "If you are running lean or remix,that blocks a cat. I didn't want to miss judge what you said there in that quote. Are you saying that premix blocks your cat?. I ask only because i have 92 plus thousand miles on my 8 and i have always premixed after a lot of research and any way my 8 has the original cat and it is not clogged. It would depend on a lot of variables like what oil did you use to premix with for instance. Just saying.

 

So running rich the cat would not get as hot because it would be burning fuel in the exhaust stage, and cooling the core. Same with Premix.

Running lean heats up the cat and makes it fail, but not necessary block it. Running lean, then rich could do that if there was excessive oil in the stream. Check out that MAF g/s to be sure

I screwed up that quote a bit. I meant the exact opposite. Unclean burning such as being very rich and running premix blocks the cat. Excessive Fuel and Excessive Oil togather will block the first stage of the cat. Running Lean would cause the cat to heat up, not cool down(Rich). So My guess is that is not the issue (running rich), and premix would actually cool the cat down.

I absolutely say premix, even on a Series2 like I have. I do between 250 and 150:1 and do 3 to 5 gallons of E85 and my car just keeps getting better everytime I drive it.

Fuel on the RX8 is mostly used to cool, not burn, so all your doing is throwing away gas, if you use lower octanes. E85 has less fuel volume, but when you burn it, is requires less of itself to cool because it is less dense and burns faster.

I use Petit's formula which is refined transmission fluid.

Sorry for the confusion, wanted to punch people friday.

 

One thing I forgot to mention is that Cats are not designed to have oil in the exhaust stream. Most ICEs don't do this so it was never addressed, but Mazda being Mazda, they designed a burn off device that achieved the same principle as a cat, but the EPA said no, it has to have a cat....period. I can't remember what exactly it was called, but it was something like "afterburner" it obviously sounded cool.

If you can get away with gutting your cat, do it. It is nothing but a bitch on our cars. I live in a yearly testing state so I am not sure if I can get away without a CEL or not.

 

You won't get past emission testing with no cat and the CEL on.

Running without a cat tends to be a bitch on air quality.

Ken

 

How inaccurate/accurate is a conventional compression tester compared to a tester designed for rotaries?