[QUOTE=strokercharged95gt;4853660] I still am seeing values a little lean (12.5:1) after changing gears, but the values get back to just under 11:1 or so as the run progresses. I am not getting any negative effects (pings) from running slightly lean for a brief time so I am wondering if this is something I should even worry about?


I get the same thing from my MAF tuned setup . I've considered mounting the maf sensor a lot further down stream (pre throttle ) to fix it but it's never caused a ping .....so far. I thought MAP tuned setups didn't suffer from this issue ....

 

Just putting a feeler out if anyone is interested in purchasing this car? I am in negotiations for another car and this one may have to go. I already have 4 cars and i'm running out of space at my house. I would be willing to take a severe hit ($$$) on getting rid of it. It would come with 2 extra transmissions (FD and OEM 6 speed) and all of the spare rx8 parts including an engine.

Again this is all contingent on negotiations on my next car, which may be sometime next week. If it becomes a official, I will put an official post in the for sale session. This car is very quick and would be a great weekend car. However, this car gets like 10 mpg so I would doubt anyone would purchase it for any serious DD activities. I will add pics if it goes to the next step.

 

I'm probably leaning towards keeping the Mazda and getting rid of the mustang. Anyways, I picked my new car and even with half the horsepower of the 8, it is still fun to drive. Car is completely stock with except for the radio and an alarm. Only 102 Green Turbo models with the V160 trans were sold in the US.



The 8 is running great up to 24 psi on the S362 now shooting 750cc methanol/750cc water (1000cc into turbo, 500 before UIM). Timing is pretty conservative at about 8-9 degrees total timing. Car is likely making over 500 at the rear wheels...

 

Nice my Buddy Tito had a similar Supra.

 

That's a nice collection. I looked at a GTR, but I decided to go with a clean MKIV because i'm a sucker for a manual transmission and the targa top...

 

Some Pics of the new car.

 

Nice, my buddy had a black 97' AE was it the same as yours (its in the vid)? believe it or not it was the slowest of his cars at the time.

 

I could not tell if his supra was auto or a Getrag, but ya it looks like the same car. The supra is probably in a tie with my DD for the slowest car. I may just do a simple BPU and be done with it, just so stock mustangs and 370Zs don't walk me on the highway. Other than that, body and motor will remain factory. The stock 17x9.5 and 17x8.0 wheels will stay. I could always put 275 drag radials on the rear wheels if the BPU horsepower required it.

 

Because why not...

 

Evening everyone. Just a little update. I have running around at 24 psi. I have been playing with 100 duty cycle in the low RPMs to hold the wastegate shut until I reach full boost. I have logged upwards of 22 psi by 4,500 RPMs. I hold 22-24 psi until redline (8,200). I will put a bus length on a new mustang running through just one gear.

Today the car was at full boost and it felt like I hit a wall. I limped the car a few miles home backfiring the whole way, idling low, vacuum nearly normal. I figured that I blew the motor apart. As I always do, I checked the coils to make sure I am getting spark and to my non-surprise, both coils on the rear rotor are dead. I literally replaced both fronts a month or two ago and replaced the two rear coils like 6 months ago. So with these two dead coils that will make 5 bad coils (D585) in a few thousand miles. Granted, those few thousand miles were severely abusive. Dwell has been set at 4500 in adaptronics. I have the harness grounded to the shock tower with a 8 awg wire. Injecting 750cc water and 750cc methanol, AFRs in the 10.5-11.5 range.

Are there any better coils I should try, or something I should change in order to get some longevity out of these? Am I just destined to replace a coil every few hundred miles?

 

Have you tried a bit less dwell?

 

That looks like that will be my next move. Say 4.0 or 4.3? I have seen people run them anywhere between 4.3-5.0... So frustrating!

Update: Took the two good working coils and put one on each of the leading positions and the car start, idled, and drove just fine. Didn't get into boost with just one coil per rotor, plus it was raining and I was on MTs. Going to have to get two more D585s.

 

 

Thanks for the tip! I will see how long I will get on the new D585s, but may be forced to make a switch.

 

It not uncommon for the d585s to die . Best thing to do is to actualy test them from new with an HEI coil tester . I've never seen one fail after testing good ...but seen plenty that were bad from the get go !

 

I received the new coils yesterday, car is up and running. I put the timing gun on every lead and they were all firing normal.

I have turned dwell from 4.5ms everywhere to 3.5ms from 0-3,000 RPMs and 4.0ms from 4,000-8,000 RPMs. Lets see where this gets me...

 

A timing gun only tells you if they work under low load ...........you need an hei tester to check if they will be fine under boost with some in reserve!

 

Gotcha, I will have to get one of those testers. I have been using the old fashioned method of boost and water to determine if it can fire under load.

 

I need some input on this. I have been getting this phantom boost spike (shown between the lines on the log) going WOT in first gear only. I have sent email to turblown to try and get a price to repair to the internal map sensor, but cannot get any response from him after multiple emails. As you can see as soon as I go WOT in first gear, the MAP sensor reads a 8-9 psi spike every time and the mixture goes so rich that it bogs for a second. The rest of the pull the MAP sensor seems to read normally. Does anyone think this phantom spike is something other then a failing MAP sensor?

Here is a 1-3 (0-100 mph log). Car has been detuned down to 18 psi for the summer heat.

 

Do you have a filter type buffer in the boost line to the computer? I have a couple inliine on mine and it makes those type of spikes a lot less of a problem.

 

 

I just have the one that came with the adaptronics installed a few inches before the port on the ECU. I try to find another and add it in to see if it makes a difference...

As far as dwell, I may try to lower it some more below 4.0ms in the upper RPMs since I have confirmed no misfires at 11:1 AFR, 18 psi, and a good deal of water.

Somebody was asking about videos in PM's. So here are just a few of the tamer ones.

BP idle

Lugging 3rd gear pull to 6,200 RPMs

 

Update: Decreased dwell from 4.5ms to 3.5ms across the board. Removed a bit of the water (down to 750cc/min of water/methanol. Did a 3rd gear pull from 60mph to 90mph, and had no ignition breakup on the run. From the graph I still have to add a few percent of fuel above 6,200 RPMs to compensate for the decrease in methanol.

Now that I am putting less stress on the coils, I hope I can get them to last more than a thousand or so miles...

Based on the log, I am at 77mph at 6,200 and 90mph at 7,200. This would put the car somewhere around 103 mph at the top of third (8,200). It would make perfect 1/8th mile gearing if I could really get the horsepower up and keep it all together.

 

Did a 30-120 mph pull (on the dyno of course). Its hot and humid right now. Began the pull rolling into 2nd gear and only started spinning the tires just below 7,000 (can see squiggly RPM/speed line at 60-67 mph). Also had a little tire spin going into third, but quickly got planted. I will probably set 45 DC (17 psi) as max for second gear when running street tires. I am on street tires, because I have already worn my drag radials down to about 50% tread.

Duty Cycle at 45% which logs at 17 psi.
On this pull I was injecting about 650-700 cc/min of 50/50 meth/water (2:1 into turbo compressor vs UIM).
Timing was somewhat conservative at 12-13 degree's total.
Max knock values in the 20-30 range, which is seems to be just normal engine noise.
Intake Air Temp (IAT) at 110 F at start of run, and it 138 F at middle of 4th gear (120 mph).
Car started to lean up (11.7-11.8) a tad from 110-120 mph, but still likely safe with water/meth (will add some VE above 6,300)
Had to let off because piece of inner fender well broke loose and started rubbing the tire.
All in all car is real smooth, will start adding duty cycle in 3rd and 4th gear to bring up the power. The heat sucks right now.

 

Update: Some more data.

30-130 mph pull (still on the dyno). Had to let off because I was running out of dyno. Ambient temp was 85 degrees.

Pretty much spun the tires all the way through 2nd gear, had to short shift into third.

Duty Cycle is at 52 (3rd and 4th gear only), which is about 19 psi (only one row in log above 20 psi). Boost drops to 18 psi near redline.

On this pull I was injecting about 850 cc/min of 50/50 meth/water (2:1 into turbo compressor vs UIM).

Timing was somewhat conservative at 10-11 degree's total.

Max knock values in the 20-30 range, which is normal for this engine.

Intake Air Temp (IAT) at 107 F at start of run, and it 147 F at near top of 4th gear (130 mph).

Car was rock solid on the AFR, o2 was reading between 10.7-11.2 through the important parts of the run.

With 3.5 ms dwell on the D585 I had no sign of breakup or hesitation of any kind.

Must fight the urge to keep turning it up. Here is the graph and a partial log.

You can see how the backfire during gear changes shows up on my knock log.

Also I am using only 40% of the 1000cc secondary injectors, so fueling isn't an issue. Based on the calculations I have seen, I should conservatively enough injector to get to 550-575 rwhp (doesn't consider methanol either).

In the log you can see I'm gaining nearly 10 mph per second above 80 mph.