Strokercharged95GT 13b-REW Build - Page 6 - RX8Club.com



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Old 05-11-2017, 11:03 PM   #126
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Originally Posted by strokercharged95gt View Post
Thanks for the responses. I just got a response from AGP, they stated that I should also run with no restrictor. I will give it a shot, I have my fingers crossed that the 3" v-band welded onto the turbine will be close to a direct fit with my current downpipe... It's getting too hot in Florida to be welding outside.

Edit: just received the turbo, the flange is a different style and sticks out too far to be able to fit the dimensions of the precision turbo. So I now have to order a special flange and redo the down-pipe after I wait another week for the correct flange.... I wish they would have let me know that I had to order their special flange when I got the turbo!
The turbine housing flange should be able to be machined to a 3" vband. Mine came with the Marmon flange and the turbo shop machined it to a 3" vband no problem.
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Old 05-12-2017, 08:43 AM   #127
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I was expecting a chamfered type v-band flange on the turbine, but it is squared (never seen it before). However, I spoke with Boostlab this morning and he says that I can use a conventional type v-band flange on the downpipe side and it should fit (weird that a vband would hold tight two different flanges). The turbine flange also sits roughly 1/2" rearward which makes fitting my existing downpipe impossible. I will have to cut off about 1/2" and re-weld.

You can see in the first pic (just in front of the strut brace) the flange shape. It may be normal to BW, but I have always used Precisions. In the pictures the turbo is sitting a 1/2" forward and a 1" to the driver side of the final mounting position.








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Old 05-12-2017, 08:52 AM   #128
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I had the opposite problem when I changed mine. It was about 1/2" shorter than the last housing.

I was glad that I hadn't ceramic coated the pipe....

Hope you don't have problems ...I can't see how that is going to seal properly.
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Old 05-17-2017, 07:28 AM   #129
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Well I learned a valuable lesson on making a downpipe, always leave a few inches of straight pipe off of the v-band flange in case you have to shorten or lengthen it in the future. My original downpipe made a 45 degree angle immediately after the v-band flange making it impossible to cut the 0.5-inch off of the downpipe and get anything to line back up. Instead of making two cuts and one weld, I had to make about 7 cuts and 6 welds. I may just redo the down-pipe in the future with 3.5" tubing and an open downpipe.

So first thoughts on the new turbo, I did end up putting a 0.075 restrictor inline. I spoke with the guys at Boostlab and they said with 120 psi oil pressure that i could run anything over 0.06" and would be okay.

I drove the car around for about 20 minutes for a brief break-in. The first time I gave it part throttle in the mid-RPMs she came online. I hit overboost (17 psi) almost immediately when the turbo was ramping up. This turbo is loud! I have always owned Precisions, and the borg warner is not even on the same level of noise. I wasn't taking the car over about 6000 RPMs because I wanted to make sure my VE fuel table was dialed in with the new snail. Based on my logs, I am getting 10 psi by about 4300 RPMs and full boost not much after that (hard to tell tires are breaking loose). With it being over 90 degrees when I took the car out yesterday I noticed AITs were hovering around 120 F.

I am going to try and hook up the 2-step and launch control next. After that maybe a trunk mounted meth/water injection system. I have a AIS system on my mustang, but am looking at the Devils Own vs AEM for the 8. Anyone have any suggestions on which system is more reliable or better designed for rotary's? I run 50/50 mix on my mustang, looking to run more of a 25 meth/75 water on the 8.

Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 05-17-2017 at 07:31 AM.
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Old 06-12-2017, 09:21 AM   #130
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Update: Been running upwards of 17 PSI with my new turbo and have been slowly increasing timing (mid teens total timing at full boost) and not seeing any knock values or bad sounds from the motor. I am at the point where I don't have the guts to turn it up any higher without some additional safety.

Getting ready to order my WI system. I think I have narrowed it down to the Devils Own Kit with the 2 gallon trunk-mounted kit. I like this kit because it comes with a built in 2 bar MAP sensor which will make installation much easier since my car is using the internal map sensor from the Adaptronics unit. The kit comes with a 370 ml/min and a 640 ml/min nozzle. I plan on running 4:1 (water/meth) to keep influence of A/F ratio to a minimum while getting some octane help. The D585 coils should be up to the task.

I have two questions. Which nozzle would be best at around 500 HP? Second, I would like to monitor IATs in Adaptronics which uses the MAF/IAT housing as reference, so in order to actually data-log the effects of cooling I would have to shoot the injection pre-MAF which is a no-no on cars that use transfer functions for fuel calculations, but since Adaptronics uses speed density, will this be okay? The only thing I can think of that may be an issue is just off WOT and some residual water may be affecting the sensor as the car goes back to idle.... Any thoughts on this? I like the idea of being able to read datalogs of the IATs to see if the injection is properly working.
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Old 06-30-2017, 03:52 PM   #131
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May I ask how you set up your timing in the beginning and found TDC? being that the Rx8 Trigger wheel is different than that of the REW.
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Old 06-30-2017, 08:33 PM   #132
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May I ask how you set up your timing in the beginning and found TDC? being that the Rx8 Trigger wheel is different than that of the REW.
No problem. I am using the Rx8 trigger wheel and rx8 front cover.

I first had to unlock trigger settings in WARI and select custom trigger to unlock the offset angles.

I clicked the locked timing at 15 BTDC and -5/-20 under 13B.

I set my timing gun onto the front leading plug.

By hitting up or down on your offset trigger angles, align the white mark on the rx8 trigger wheel with the embossed point on the rx8 front cover (its like the 12:30 position from the front main seal).

When its aligned, remove the locked timing at 15 BTDC and -5/-20 under 13B.

Adaptronics should now be aligned with your motor.

I hope this is what you were looking for. Car runs smooth with no knock, so I assume I did it correctly.

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Old 07-05-2017, 10:45 AM   #133
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Methanol/Water Injection system will be arriving tomorrow. I hope to get it all installed this weekend.

I would like to get to my local 1/8th mile track sometime soon to see what kind of speed I can push this car at its current state. The biggest issue now is traction, I can't keep this car planted in 1st, second, or third once the motor get above 5500-6000 RPMs. I would like to eventually go 18x12 on the rear with 315 drag radials, but this would require alot of fender modification. For now I'm looking for a simpler solution. I would love to run a 15 inch wheel with big sidewall drag radials, but I know that with the GT package I am relegated to 17-inch wheels minimum (I have read). Anyone have any ideas on the best solution to be able to get some tire under this car with some sidewall wrinkle?

I still am running the 6 speed rx8 tranny and fully expect to blow this thing up sooner rather than later (maybe first hard shift at the track)...
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Old 07-06-2017, 12:37 AM   #134
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I think the 3.90 rear gear will work in the diff. That should help you out a little
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Old 07-07-2017, 04:31 AM   #135
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Yes, any FD3 R&P or LSD is a direct bolt-in for the RX8 diff and vice versa
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Old 07-07-2017, 08:59 AM   #136
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Yes, any FD3 R&P or LSD is a direct bolt-in for the RX8 diff and vice versa
Are you talking about swapping the entire differential case and all, or just the gearset? If I can swap the whole thing, should I just be looking for differential housing out of an automatic FD?

I can't believe how expensive gears are for imports. It may just be cheaper to put on the 5-speed transmission ($500) and put two fat tires on the back then to pay $1,000 for a 3.90 gearset

I have actually spent the last hour crunching a bunch of numbers to determine which way is best to lengthen my gears to keep the wheel spin and torque down.

As its stand now with a 4.44 FD, 25" OD Wheels ,6 Speed tranny, and 8,000 RPMs, the MPH is 35 (1), 59 (2), 82 (3), 114 (4), 134 (5), 159 (6)

With 4.44 FD, 26.7" OD Wheels, 6 Speed Tranny, and 8,000 RPMs, the MPH is 38 (1), 63 (2), 87 (3), 122 (4), 143 (5), 170 (6)

With 4.44 FD, 25" OD Wheels, 5 Speed Tranny, and 8,000 RPMs, the MPH is 38 (1), 67 (2), 96 (3), 134 (4), 186 (5)

With 4.44 FD, 26.7" OD Wheels, 5 Speed Tranny, and 8,000 RPMs, the MPH is 41 (1), 71 (2), 103 (3), 143 (4), 199 (5)


So in short if I swap from the 6-speed to 5-speed transmission, and swap from my current tires 225/40/18 to some 245/45/18 POTENZA RE-71R (26.7" OD)

My shift points would go from:

1st Gear - 35 mph to 41 mph
2nd Gear - 59 mph to 71 mph
3rd Gear - 82 mph to 103 mph
4th Gear - 114 mph to 143 mph
5th Gear - 134 mph to 199 mph

Since I would like to shoot for mid to high 90s (mph) in the 1/8th mile, and you should not be going into 4th gear in the 1/8th, having 3rd gear winding out near 100 mph is probably a good thing. For the 1/4 mile that 4th gear will likely be dismal though at 143 mph (assuming to be somewhere in the low to mid 120s).

Anyways, $450 for new tires and $500 for a tranny would see a better way to go then spending $1k on a gearset. feel free to shoot down my logic...

Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 07-07-2017 at 12:11 PM.
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Old 07-09-2017, 09:59 AM   #137
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Completed install of the methanol/WI kit, tried to post a pic of it running (with the injector out of the intake), but photobucket is so terrible. I made an aluminum bracket to hold the tank just right in the trunk so that I could easily refill, but be out of the way. I installed the status light in the gauge pod so I can monitor the kit without having to see the controller. I currently have the 1000cc injector in with activation at 5 psi and full injection at 25 psi. Therefore, if I am around 20 psi, I should be injecting around 750cc/min. I plan on using windshield wiper fluid that is around 33% methanol. I still have to install my triumph AIT sensor in the UIM and splice the sensor into the rx8 harness. This way I will be able to monitor the intake temps about 18 inches after the WI nozzle in adaptronics.

I have a RX8 5-speed tranny that is on the way. I still have a FD tranny that came with my $1350 junkyard REW motor. Should I just run the 5 speed tranny, or bolt the tail and bellhousing onto the FD tranny and run that? Is there much difference? I also will probably be ordering MH Drag Radials 245/40/18 for the stock rx8 wheels. I want to keep this car as sleeper as possible.


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Old 07-13-2017, 04:17 PM   #138
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Glen, I am not sure how to send you pictures through a private message. So as requested, you'll notice that the Rx8 front cover won't fit over the front REW counterweight as the Rx8 counterweight sinks into the rx8 front iron. I did this work about 2 years+ ago so forgive me if I don't remember everything just right. Also, all of these measurements are from memory so I would use them as a guide and not as a rule.

You will need to remove the plate in the rx8 front cover (pic below) and either machine off or carefully grind off about 15-20 mm of aluminum from this area all the way back to the edge of counterweight (imagine that the counterweight will have to sweep through this area). Once you think you have ground off enough, clean the cover and mount to your REW front iron with counterweight attached. If you turn the motor over and the counterweight catches on the front cover, you know haven't cleared enough. At this point I had already rebuilt my engine so I was able to keep going checking clearance every time I ground off a little more. You will likely find that you will get thin in some important areas near the edge of the cover. You can always add some aluminum filler in those areas after everything has been clearanced. You should also be able to tell where the counterweight has caught the front cover because it will make a mark in the soft aluminum.



Once you have clearanced the front cover and can rotate the motor freely with the front cover bolted on, you will have to weld the two oil galleys underneath the plate that you removed in step 1. Since you have cut off oil flow through the front cover, you will need to install an external oil line to reconnect the passage. You will need to drill and tap fittings onto the exterior of front cover and run a small braided line to connect these two points. I think I used -3AN fitting and line. You can see from the picture below what it should look like with the front cover mounted with the air conditioning compressor removed. As a bonus, you can also see where I had begun to remove the sliver of extra material front the front iron in order to fit the rx8 air conditioner to the REW motor.



I think earlier in this post I described that you will have to remove one of the studs of the front REW iron in order to seat the rx8 cover on the REW motor so please do that before trying to attached the rx8 cover. Also, you will find that one of the bolts that goes into the rx8 front cover will be misaligned with the REW front iron. You can leave this bolt out (as I did) or maybe have a machine shop add threads to the front iron. There may not be enough material to do this operation. As stated above, I left this bolt out and have had no issues.

There may be more operations I'm forgetting about, but this should give you a good idea what is involved in order to use the RX8 front cover. I hope this makes sense. After seeing issues with other swaps, I really think its the way to go. This way you can use the rx8 trigger wheel and CPS, all of the rx8 accessories which are 10-15 years newer including the already charged and working ac compressor.

Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 07-13-2017 at 04:23 PM.
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Old 07-13-2017, 04:28 PM   #139
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Thank you!
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Old 07-15-2017, 02:49 AM   #140
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I picked up one of these, from somewhere, to aid in rewiring for the REW IAT sensor. After you wire in a pigtail for the sensor, on the IAT wires, it is a nice plug and play affair.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/322290893905?_mwBanner=1
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Old 07-15-2017, 08:33 AM   #141
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I picked up one of these, from somewhere, to aid in rewiring for the REW IAT sensor. After you wire in a pigtail for the sensor, on the IAT wires, it is a nice plug and play affair.

Toyota MAF Mass Air Flow Sensor Extension Harness - 24" Denso 5 wire pin | eBay
Nice I paid 15 dollars for a used triumph motorcycle IAT fast acting sensor on ebay. I am going to swap it in the same location as the REW IAT (upper intake manifold). The triumph IAT sensor uses a standard bosch EV1 pigtail and I will wire that into the harness at the mass air meter. The voltages on the triumph sensor are supposed to be nearly identical to the REW IAT sensor, so hopefully I can simply input those values into adaptronics for correction without having to manually do it. I have just been lazy to pull the intake manifold. I will probably get to it next weekend, and should be able to post some IAT graphs of before and after water/meth injection.
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Old 07-16-2017, 04:37 PM   #142
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Are you talking about swapping the entire differential case and all, or just the gearset? If I can swap the whole thing, should I just be looking for differential housing out of an automatic FD?
I very specifically stated R&P and LSD. The diff housings are different. How you choose to skin your cat is not my concern. I was only stating factual info.
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Old 07-21-2017, 07:26 PM   #143
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Update. First off I found when I removed by intake manifold that one of the vacuum plugs had blown off the manifold causing a vacuum leak. I fixed the leak and since I tuned the car with the hidden vacuum leak, I had to retune the entire VE table. I am up to 15 psi and still have to tune the next few rows up to 22 psi. The good thing is that I was able to pull a lot of fuel out of the original map.

I installed the Triumph sensor in the UIM. I had to do a lot of calibrating to get sensor dialed in. I noticed right away that due to the location in the manifold that it records heat soak considerable more than the previous location in the MAF housing that was between the inter-cooler and throttle body. I actually like the location better because it gives you a more accurate snapshot of the air entering the motor.

For water injection, I mixed 4 bottles (48 oz) of yellow heet (99% methanol) with 80 oz of distilled water, so around 1:2 ratio. I logged a 0-80 mph sprint through the first three gears (on a closed private road) to datalog IAT and how the injection keeps the temps down. With a 80 degree ambient air temp I am seeing a 100-130 UIM temp. Obviously, temps are high at idle and lower with lower RPM cruising. As you can see from the log below, I was around 118 degrees at the start of the pull and was about 115 degrees a few seconds after letting off around 7,000 RPMs in 3rd gear (peak temp hit 124). You can see the lean spots near the end of 1st and 2nd gear when the tires began spinning. My new transmission is in my garage waiting to be installed. Anyways, in this run I was injecting around 50% pump on the 1,000 cc/min nozzle, so somewhere around 500 cc/min. I will keep playing around with the injection controller to see if I can drop the temps even more without killing spark. I not sure whether I want to turn it up much over 15 psi as the car just skates all over the road. I hope that with the longer 5 speed gears I will be able to run 18 psi with minimal tire spin.



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Old 07-21-2017, 09:24 PM   #144
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FL

Bored tonight so I figured I would give a rundown of my modifications so far so anyone looking to do the swap can see all what is required.

Engine
Junkyard REW motor
Refurbished Rotor Housings with 33% larger ports
Pineapple Medium Street Ported Irons
Freelance Dowel Pins
Atkins Full Rebuild Kit
Excessive LIM w/4 injector bungs
Ported REW UIM
RX8 Front Cover (modified for REW)
RX8 Throttle Body
RX8 CAS and Trigger Wheel
Banzai REW Mount
Banzai Low Profile Oil Pan
REW Motor Mounts
Vented Crankcase through CXRacing Oil Filler Neck

Turbo
Borg Warner S362SXE 62/68 w/0.91 AR Housing
4 AN Feed/ 10 AN Drain
2" Mild Steel Weld Els Turbo Manifold (Schwartz design)
3" 14 Gauge Mild Steel Downpipe
50mm JGS Wastegate w/10 PSI spring
HKS BOV
Mishimoto Intercooler

Fuel System
ID 725cc P1 Injectors
ID 1000cc P2 Injectors
ID 1000cc Secondary Injectors
Fuelab FPR w/analog gauge
6 AN Feed Line with stock return
Aeromotive Stealth 340 LPH Fuel Pump
FFE Fuel Rails (4 injector secondary rail)

Electronics
Adaptronics Select ECU
Prosport Gauges (AFR, Fuel Pressure, Oil Pressure, Boost, Water Temp, Oil Temp)
AEM Water Injection Kit (MAP Controlled)
3 Port Mac Valve (boost control)
D585 Coils
Custom MSD Wires
Autolite 3933 Plugs (0.025" gap)
Triumph Fast Acting IAT Senor

Drivetrain
REW Flywheel
SPEC Stage 3 Clutch (6 Puck)
RX8 6 Speed Tranny (5 Speed waiting to go in)

Miscellaneous
Custom 3" Catback with HKS Hipower Muffler
3 Resonators between turbo and muffler
Koyo Radiator
Mishimoto 180 Degree Thermostat

Only thing I didn't do myself was the flywheel and rotor housing resurfacing. Everything else is stock.

Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 07-21-2017 at 09:33 PM.
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