Strokercharged95GT 13b-REW Build - Page 8 - RX8Club.com



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Old 10-07-2017, 06:14 PM   #176
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The nearest e85 station is 35 miles away from my house, so that's not happening. I am really convinced that this has nothing to do with octane.
.
It may be that some issue other than octane caused the detonation that took out the apex . But I still say you are better off using e85 as an octane boost additive than the concoction you were running . I settled on 30% ethanol in my setup and have found that is way better than any w/m combo I tried before that . Worth 35 mile trip armed with a few jerrycans ....... IMO
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Old 10-20-2017, 09:40 AM   #177
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Looking for some advice on porting. I have ported my exhaust ports out to the EPA-4A template from Pineapple, so I have added significant exhaust ports (51 mm x 35mm).

I purchased the Pineapple BP template as I plan on doing a half-bridge. The relief port pretty much mirrors the length of the secondary port. I also see other templates that only use a relief port that is half the length of the secondary port (partial BP). As I understand it, the full length relief port will give significantly more overlap, which will product less vacuum and require higher idle. Use of the relief port that is half the length of the secondary port (open later), will reduce overlap, produce more vacuum, and idle somewhere between a full length bridge and a streetport. I hate the idea of idling around at 1800-2000 especially with the temperature in Florida putting the cooling system on the edge.

Is doing the conservative relief port (starting further from the exhaust port) worth it? Or should I just sack up and do the full length BP?

I already have all the gaskets and my new RA Super Seals waiting to go in once I make a decision on the intake ports.

Update: Well I went ahead and shortened the relief port by 20mm (32mm instead of 52mm). More of a partial bridge with a bit less overlap. I did a minor notching on the rotor housing. Next rebuild I can always make the port larger. I kept the bridge on the wide side. Still waiting on the mail man to deliver my new RA super seals. Hopefully they will show up and I can get the motor back together tonight.



Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 10-21-2017 at 03:09 PM.
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Old 10-25-2017, 01:52 PM   #178
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I was going to suggest RA Super Seals as they claim they don't break, just wear. I am curious to see how you like them.
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Old 10-25-2017, 07:59 PM   #179
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I was going to suggest RA Super Seals as they claim they don't break, just wear. I am curious to see how you like them.
Well the post office lost my seals, the tracking number hasn't been updated in 6 days. I had to request an investigation. RA says they have to wait weeks in order to file a insurance claim so I am out in limbo. I guess I would expect nothing less from a organization that loses $6,000,000,000/year.
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Old 10-26-2017, 09:34 AM   #180
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Damn, that sucks. USPS is on the ball as always...
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Old 10-27-2017, 08:49 PM   #181
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I want to know how that s362 feels? I just bought one for my build. I think I'm going to send the conmpressor housing to OCD works for the T51r mod
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Old 11-02-2017, 02:17 PM   #182
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I want to know how that s362 feels? I just bought one for my build. I think I'm going to send the conmpressor housing to OCD works for the T51r mod
Hits just fine. I am using a high-mount turbo setup with 2" primaries so spool isn't great. 10 psi by 4,300, 20ish by 5,000. I am now going to a partial bridge-port, so I am hoping I can improve on both of those by a few hundred revs. I have a datalog on here that shows the turbo pressure coming on.

I finally received my RA apex seals. I was fitting them in my rotors last night, and they are much more snug in the rotor grooves than the Atkins seals were. They appear to be slightly thicker. I am wondering whether I should take some emory paper to the apex groove, or the seal itself? Im guessing that I only need to remove a 1/10 of a mm or two to get the seals moving easily through the slots.

I have been so busy with life lately that I havent been able to put any time into getting the motor rebuilt. I hope to make some progress on Saturday.
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Old 11-08-2017, 03:39 PM   #183
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Can't wait to see the progress.
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Old 11-12-2017, 03:21 PM   #184
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A view of the difference of the RX8 5 speed vs 6 speed. The transmission is much beefier in the 5 speed, bellhousing and tail shaft are smaller.



After installing the new transmission, balancing it on my jack, I found that the 5 speed has a dowel on one of the upper passenger bell housing bolt holes. So I had to pull the entire transmission down and drill out the dowel so I could install.




engine and transmission are in, now I just have to hook up everything else and can start.

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Old 11-23-2017, 10:01 AM   #185
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Got the car fired up this morning. I have to hold the throttle open to keep it running. Seems to run fine at 1,600 RPMs. If I let off the throttle it slowly dies due to the Bridgeport. Before I started I was 89 PSI in the front rotor and 81 PSI in the rear rotor. Its a real PITA to start with an old battery and a freshly rebuilt motor. I will have to drill out the TB a bit more to get a 1,500-1,600 idle. Vacuum was 8 mm Hg at 1,500 RPMS.

Car definitely braps, and the exhaust is a whole level louder. Gotta break this thing in so starting is easier.

Update: Have run the car in my driveway for a few idling sessions of 30 minutes. Vacuum is coming up (12mm HG at 1,600 RPMs) and car is starting easier. I drove the car around the block, and it was smooth. Other than the higher idle, the car drives the same as it did before. Transmission seems fine.

Quick Video of the car idling. Car has 3 resonators and a large muffler, so the exhaust is pretty tame, even with the new port.


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Old 12-02-2017, 12:04 PM   #186
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Update: I have about 100 miles on the rebuild. I checked compression at 40 miles, compression in the front has improved from 89 to 92. Compression in the rear has improved from 82 to 102. Compression in the front never seems to be as good as the rear, probably just a rotor housing that is at the back half of its life.

During the rebuild I noticed oil in the intake tract, so I reduced the turbo oil restrictor from 0.075" to 0.06". Running 10-40 oil, at warm idle (1,600 RPMs), oil pressure is around 50-60, At 3,500 RPMs i'm near 90 psi, and WOT and above 4,000 RPMs i'm at 100-120 psi.



I think Adaptronics cleared up the timing issue with adaptronics. From the factory the rx8 trigger is preset with the first trigger angle of 41 (41,31,21,11, etc.). With the trigger angle of 41, you should have approximately 10 degree's of retard built into your map. However, if you align the trigger wheel and front cover at 5 ATDC, they theorize that your first trigger angle would be 31 (31, 21, 11, 1, etc.). Previously I ran with my trigger angle at 37 in the aligned position, so my timing map should have been within a few degree's. With my new rebuild, I used a timing gun to verify that the trigger wheel was aligned and I am now at 34 (34, 24, 14, etc.), so I am 3 degree's retarded of what adaptronics would hypothetically expect. It is likely that I am more accurate as Adaptronics values are hypothetically only. Now that I am confident that I am within a few degree's (and always was), the only reason for my previous blown motor was that enough oil was bypassing the turbo that when it entering the combustion chamber during WOT (20 psi) is was causing the octane to crater and cause detonation. Its the only explanation I can come up with.

During my break in on the new motor, slowly running through the gears up to 4-4,500 RPMs, I am getting a good deal of positive pressure from the turbo with TPS of only 15-35 even at light to medium throttle. I hope this is a good sign to come and that the BP will help spool/wind the motor up much quicker than the previous street-ported engine. I included a log of a typical light/medium run-up through 3rd gear.




The 5 speed is much better suited for a turbo motor, and much less cumbersome on the street. I will probably only put a few hundred more miles on the motor before getting on it.....
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Old 12-05-2017, 02:34 AM   #187
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2 things:

1.That mustant looks SLOWWWWW lol I had to
2. keep it up. looking forward to updates
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Old 12-08-2017, 01:55 PM   #188
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2 things:

1.That mustant looks SLOWWWWW lol I had to
2. keep it up. looking forward to updates
The mustang is actually pretty slow. 5.7 liters, 11:1 compression, 9 pounds on a 76mm turbo, methanol injection, and 295/35/18 street tires. The last time I was at the track with 6.5 psi on a centrifugal blower, I would spin through the first two gears with a pitiful 2.1 60 foot, and still manage to go low 12's at 119-120 mph. Now with full boost at 3.5-4k on the turbo at 9 psi, I would probably spin event more and get a similar ET with 125+ mph traps speeds. If I put slicks on it, I'm sure I would just break my transmission (rated to 350 torque), snap axles, or kill the rear end. Its a prime example of overbuilding a car to not be fun, and it handles like ****.
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Old 12-09-2017, 08:05 PM   #189
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I'm sure it's fun to roast the tires. #Murica
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Old 12-11-2017, 02:12 PM   #190
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After a 200 miles of breaking the motor in, I have been trying to log some WOT runs. I am on spring pressure only (12-13 psi) and cannot getting any traction above 5,500 RPMs in 1st or 2nd gear (the cold weather in FL right now isnt helping). With the new tranny, my 3rd gear runs out to 95 mph (@8,000 RPMs), which makes any type of data-logging unsafe and unrealistic. It was easier on my old setup because 3rd gear did not get so much mph. I am in desperate need of some traction, something I can use at the 1/8th or 1/4 mile. I think I could put some 16" wheels over the back 11.9" rotors, but there aren't any off the shelf wheels that would fit, like a 16x10. I would love to put 15" drag wheels with some MT or hoosiers on it, but I know they will not fit over the factory calipers. Has anyone found any easy solutions for getting some traction?
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Old 12-11-2017, 02:20 PM   #191
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Yes ... I find running a renesis I get really good traction !
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Old 12-11-2017, 10:16 PM   #192
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Even if you have traction the loading in 2nd gear is so low with uber quick transitioning that it won’t really be accurate for higher gears. A dyno may be your only safe alternative if you don’t have an offroad location instead.
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Old 12-12-2017, 06:07 PM   #193
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Even if you have traction the loading in 2nd gear is so low with uber quick transitioning that it won’t really be accurate for higher gears. A dyno may be your only safe alternative if you don’t have an offroad location instead.
yeah 2nd gear logs are all over the place. I am usually logging third gear, but third gear runs up so high now. Tuning aside, I still need to get some traction. I see that many people put rx8 brakes on their miatas/mx5 because they are bigger (10.9" miata vs 11.9 rx8).... How hard would it be to put the miata rear brakes on a rx8? I just sent a message to good-win racing asking this hypothetical question.... I would love to run a 15" weld wheel like that are on this FD....(rear only)


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