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It would be nice to get the car running on a new sensor while I figure out which 3-4 BAR MAP sensor is best. Probably need to be leaning towards a 3.5 or 4, because if I plan on making 30 psi and I need a 32 psi cut, the 29 psi limit of a 3 bar won't be enough.....
Also picked up a new set of spark plugs wires for the next update....
UPDATE: New sensor works. Output is linear. Set the high point at 29 psi in the software (maxed out near 5 volts). Started the car and let is idle at 11 inches of HG (around 1 volt), set the low point at 11 inches of HG. Shut the cat down and at STP (no vacuum or pressure) the sensor was reading about 0.1 psi. So this $11 dollar sensor seems to be much better. Will use this for the time being until i'll upgrade.
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 08-04-2019 at 11:07 AM.
. ...UPDATE: New sensor works. Output is linear. Set the high point at 29 psi in the software (maxed out near 5 volts). Started the car and let is idle at 11 inches of HG (around 1 volt), set the low point at 11 inches of HG. Shut the cat down and at STP (no vacuum or pressure) the sensor was reading about 0.1 psi. So this $11 dollar sensor seems to be much better. Will use this for the time being until i'll upgrade.
Update: After I completed the exhaust, I started the car up and let it idle for 15 minutes. After minute 3, I started getting smoke from the exhaust. I thought it was just the residual oil burning off of the mandrel bend tubing I was using, but after awhile I started getting smoke from the engine compartment. I noticed I had oil coming out of the turbine bolts, which dripped onto the rear housing. I then pulled the turbo and had oil in the downpipe and inside of the turbine housing. I run an open crankcase so its impossibly to building any pressure in the motor. The drain was also not clogged as I could easily blow air into the front cover. My guess is after boosting that turbo up to 16 psi the last out that I damaged the 15 year old turbo. In the past, I have always bought turbos that were bigger than needed. So this time I showed restraint and went with the BW S362 (8376) SXE with the 0.91 divided housing. I will update, once I get the new turbo in and installed.
Stroker,
Do you know what p/n your turbine housing was for your s362 sxe? Was it the 177207 or 177208?
Have been roughing in a whole new map because of the new properly working MAP sensor. Also had to re-scale the tables to get 30 psi on the y-axis
I hate to say it but not only was the internal 4 bar MAP sensor reading only half the vacuum, but it appears that it was reading about 10% less boost than actually (assuming this new sensor is correct), Acceleration rates also back up that data. So when I ran 97 mph in the 1/8th mile, I could have been pushing more like 23-26 psi. When I hit 27 psi racing a SRT Challenger, it could have been 30 psi....... The good news that I can likely push the timing harder on this tune and the motor seems to have held up with exception of that sleeve.
Just took 2-3% of fuel out at 5,100, and added 2-3% fuel from 5,400 to 8,100.... Such a funny looking fuel map in order to get the commanded AFR to match actual.....
Only using ~55% of total injector duty cycle on this pull.
Trying not to push it too hard. New coils going on shortly.
3 inch exhaust and small S362 is going to be the big restriction once I start pushing it again...
93 octane 17 psi pull
Update - Long 3rd and 4th gear pull
Another pull after fuel changes. A/F is perfect (~11.4:1). 93 octane pull at 17-19 psi. Leading timing 15-16. No knock.
UIM temps from 111-152F (+41F) on the long pull (purple line).... Once new ignition goes in, I will try more water and meth to bring that back down. This pull was also done with my exhaust silencer in, which take the muffler exit down to 2.5"
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 08-10-2019 at 08:00 AM.
150+ IAT requires some attention. given your power output, and that it is probably headed higher, i suggest you switch to 100% methanol as AI and run an M15 (900 CC) nozzle. your engine will thank you.
also, if you do decide to step up turbo-wise i really like the BW SX-E 66. 80 mm hotside. the 66 mm inducer combines w the exducer from the 9180 to make the turbo a big power producer yet have lots of mid-range bias as the Trim is only 52.
dirt cheap and a bolt on for you.
congrats on having what might be the best rotary tuning thread on the net.
150+ IAT requires some attention. given your power output, and that it is probably headed higher, i suggest you switch to 100% methanol as AI and run an M15 (900 CC) nozzle. your engine will thank you.
also, if you do decide to step up turbo-wise i really like the BW SX-E 66. 80 mm hotside. the 66 mm inducer combines w the exducer from the 9180 to make the turbo a big power producer yet have lots of mid-range bias as the Trim is only 52.
dirt cheap and a bolt on for you.
congrats on having what might be the best rotary tuning thread on the net.
Thanks HC
I have some IGN-1A coils, harness, new wires, and a mount all sitting here waiting to go in. I had to dial back the water/methanol to stop the misfiring under load, but as a consequence IATs appear to be ramping up. At one point I was only getting a 15-20 degree rise during long pulls, now its 40+.
Hopefully, once the new ignition system is up and running I can throw more methanol and water through the motor (don't wanna run 100% methanol as i'm not sure the components can take it).
I really have my heart set on the EFR9180 and a new custom 3.5" exhaust. I have been delaying with the upgrade as I am looking to buy a new house shortly...
Well got the coils installed, new plug wires, harness, etc.
I'm befuddled, coils will not spark. I set the coils up in a configuration that is the same diagram... Top left coil is for trailing 1 (front), Bottom left is for leading 1 (front), etc. I connected the positive wire directly to the starter. Battery ground is connected to the shock tower. Sensor ground is connected to the ground point on the top of the rotor housing. Everything was hooked up correct. Cranked and cranked the motor so much that the exhaust became saturated then eventually one coil must have fired because I had the most epic backfire. I'm sure the cops are on the way.
HEI tested the coils while cranking and didn't get any spark.
Pin E has 12+ volts so system has power. Fuses all look good.
i'll have to check the crank signal just in case. I would be unlucky to have a sensor go bad exactly when I change the coils. D585s and ebay harness worked fine 24 hours ago.
I tried the grounds in multiple spots and in all combinations and it didn't help. The 30-amp fuse is not blown in the harness.
Even if I hooked up all the coil leads incorrectly the coils would still fire (just out of sync).
I tired every coil and none would fire. You really can't hook the harness up incorrectly.
No other fuses are blown in the fuse box. Ugh
My next move may just be taking a stock rx8 ignition coil, plugging it into the factory harness that goes into the sake bomb harness and confirm that I can get that to give me spark....
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 08-18-2019 at 05:20 PM.
Does the Adaptronic have a trigger scope in the software? A lot of the newer ECU's do. Makes it a lot easier to see of you have a trigger signal
I thought that there were issues with the triggers o the Select.. maybe just crapped out?
I would try and scope the trigger signal if you can... if you are sure you have everything else hooked up correctly. If it was the stock ECU it would be more likely to be something that it doesnt like... but the standalone are much less integrated into the rest if the car.
Did you change any ECU settings? You may have a corrupt map?
Yes Adaptronics does have a trigger menu that will show a signal. I'll try that next.
Then I will try hooking up another coil and see if I can get that firing....
I would check to see if the trigger ground needs to be to the block or the chassis. I agree sounds like a simple grounding issue. Also there is an inbuilt fuse in the power wire running the the coils right? May want to check that fuse as well.
The Sakebomb harness is 100% plug & play. Plugging in the connectors, hooking it up to the battery and connecting the grounds is all that should be required. I was going to suggest that fuse, but then figured it was no longer used. Unlike the OE coils, with this harness power comes direct from the battery and he said there is B+ at the coil.
The Sakebomb harness is 100% plug & play. Plugging in the connectors, hooking it up to the battery and connecting the grounds is all that should be required. I was going to suggest that fuse, but then figured it was no longer used. Unlike the OE coils, with this harness power comes direct from the battery and he said there is B+ at the coil.
Correct but there is an inline fuse on the B+ line. It bypasses the wiring in the harness since the gauge wire is not rated for the current.
I am very tempted to make my own kit (made my own LS kit before they got really cheap) and studied this kit a lot. Not looking to sell them, just have a hard time pay this price for a coil solution when I can make it for under half.
Yep already checked that 30 amp fuse and its still good.
I can hear the relay click when I loosen the ground enough to lose contact. Also seeing 12+ volts at the E pin. So it doesn't seem to be a power or harness ground issue. Going to check on the rx8 factory ignition ground and crank position sensor next. If that doesn't show any issue I will try resistance testing on all the wires.
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 08-19-2019 at 02:32 PM.
I guess he didn’t comprehend that you were getting the B+ measurement at the coil connector, which means the relay is energized. Seems like it has to be on the trigger side. Either not generating one or not making it to the coil pin.
Yep already checked that 30 amp fuse and its still good.
I can hear the relay click when I loosen the ground enough to lose contact. Also seeing 12+ volts at the E pin. So it doesn't seem to be a power or harness ground issue. Going to check on the rx8 factory ignition ground and crank position sensor next. If that doesn't show any issue I will try resistance testing on all the wires.
Not too knowledgeable on the plugs your using but are those fouled out from all this? I know I couldn't get my rx8 to start the first time I was trying to get my adaptronic hooked up and finally pulled my plugs to see they were screwed from me flooding it and cranking like crazy.
So you’re saying that even though it ran perfect up until he swapped from the D585 coils that despite these new coils are putting out 2x+ the juice of the D585 it can’t light off the same spark plugs?
Alright guys looks like the problem may be solved.
Checked in WARI and could see that the trigger was being engaged (saw the trigger flashing) Checked to see that the crank position sensor connector was on securely and it was.
I started checking resistance on the harness to make sure everything was pinned correctly and it was. Was checking voltage on the factory ignition connector and it seemed normal.
Tried to check continuity for the ground on the coil to wherever it grounded to the block. I assumed that it was one of the ring terminals that connect to the bolt on the rotor housing, but couldn't find it (no continuity detected on meter).
BUT as I was looking for the grounding wires at the main harness I could see where one of the ground wires had broken. Not sure if it was attached to one of those ring terminals or connected to another wire. Either way I temporarily connected that ground to other grounds at the ring terminal. Had my wife begrudgingly come out side and turn the key for the tenth time in 24 hours and saw spark easily jumping the spark tester. First time seeing spark and plenty of it.
I am not sure that the ground wire was connected to the coil because I couldn't get any continuity between that point and the coil ground, but it is possible it was part of the ground on the crank position sensor. Either way it looks like one tiny brittle ground wire may have been the issue. I couldn't find any solder to secure that wire since it wouldn't be impossible to connect that wire any other way as it is way deep down in the engine bay on top of the engine.
Plan is to solder that wire so it doesn't come back apart and put the top of the motor back together and try to fire it up.
Until the motor actually fires I will get excited.
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 08-19-2019 at 07:19 PM.
08-04-2019, 07:28 AM
