When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
That's what I have... I keep thinking I'll go 9180.... but I don't see the.point really for the almost 3x the price.
I would definitively like to get the EFR9180, but without a stronger transmission option I don't see that as practical. Couldn't imagine what kind of stress 20 psi would put on the drive-train at 4,000-4,500 RPMs with a 95 lb/min turbo....
With the 369, I would be happy with 10 psi by 4,500, 14 psi by 5,000, and 18 psi by 5,500. etc. (kill mode would be 20-22 psi from 6-8k)
The longest motor I've had in mine was the shitty one we built out of crap parts....
There must be something to the waiting to blow up thing. It seems to work with spare transmissions too... having a few spares seems to make them live a lot longer 😁
The longest motor I've had in mine was the shitty one we built out of crap parts....
There must be something to the waiting to blow up thing. It seems to work with spare transmissions too... having a few spares seems to make them live a lot longer 😁
You aint kiddin.... Other than new apex, corner, and side seals with springs and closing kit, this car has been running for 5 year and 10,000 miles (500 of those miles are probably WOT) on rotors, housings, irons, stat gears, crank, oil control rings, and bearings that for all i know is original to the early 90s... I'm playing with the houses money at this point
Kinda bored on lock-down. I took my last 3rd gear pull at 24-28 psi.
I took all the raw data in excel and calculated the average time and average mile per hour and took and average at every RPM point from 4000-7800 RPMs in 100 RPM increments from the pull.
I then added as trendline to see exactly where I was making power and where I wasn't.
Some interesting finds. Now none of this takes air resistance as a factor which it definitely would as a car accelerates from 50 to 100 mph, so you have to take that into consideration while analyzing the data.
As I have mentioned in the past, the car feels fast but I have definitely noticed the power dropping off more and more in the upper RPMs as I keep turning up the boost. This is likely due to the compressor efficiency dropping like a rock as I move into the inefficient areas along the 2.7-2.9 PR of the compressor map. It could also be an undersized 3" exhaust.
I think that the data pretty much confirms this. Based on the data, it appears that i'm making peak horsepower around 6,100-6,500 RPMs then the power tails off. Even with wind resistance, you would think this graph would level off as I should be making more power between 7-8k....
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 04-03-2020 at 06:31 PM.
...Some interesting finds. ...have to take that into consideration while analyzing the data.
As I have mentioned in the past, the car feels fast but I have definitely noticed the power dropping off more and more in the upper RPMs as I keep turning up the boost. This is likely due to the compressor efficiency dropping like a rock as I move into the inefficient areas along the 2.7-2.9 PR of the compressor map. It could also be an undersized 3" exhaust.
I think that the data pretty much confirms this. Based on the data, it appears that i'm making peak horsepower around 6,100-6,500 RPMs then the power tails off. Even with wind resistance, you would think this graph would level off as I should be making more power between 7-8k....
Good stuff. I'd suspect the same as you mentioned.. Expected that you'd peak at ~6200, but something does appear to be causing excessive drop-off beyond that point.
You should be measuring turbine backpressure IMO . At a guess I'd say the numbers will be getting much higher than what you are predicting on matchbot.
I am running a separate exhaust for WG ..... might be worth considering to get post turbine backpressure down. Have you tried VTA wastegate at this level ?
Well hopefully another exhaust insert didn’t close off like before. Which may have occurred previously due to the fuel injection/harness issue you may have resolved recently. It was a head scratcher then, but kind of all makes sense now, right?
So on one hand you don’t have the modular ecu or emap would be simple. On the other hand, there’s no point putting the larger S369 turbo on there without at least a 4” or larger exhaust. Which we know can make up to 700 whp and also provides the torque curve you were wanting. Since you’re not planning to keep that turbo, not sure I’d bother with doing anything else before getting a larger exhaust system and taking a peak into the exhaust ports.
I agree with everything. Even now with running the open gate which helps the take the back-pressure off the exhaust system, the amount of wastegate gasses moving through the gate is inversely proportional to the boost level.
The more boost I run, the lower the flow through the gate and higher amount that goes through the turbine. I know there are parts of the exhaust that neck down to 2.75" so its not even a true 3". Even if I ran a true 3.5" from down-pipe to exhaust tip, i'm sure that would equal a 50% flow gain.
I would almost certainly do a true 3.5" exhaust with the new turbo. To make a 4" down-pipe fit I wold definitely have to do some metal massaging on the inner frame rail....
In theory, but reality indicates otherwise in both response and output. I have full 3” running NA, lol 😆
I only suggested it because his intention is to move to a larger turbo. 3.5” would be better, but it’d be better still with a 4” DP based on everything I’ve ever seen from people who made the change from 3” to larger. A 3” dump pipe would be fine because it’s short and open, but back to the bumper with mufflers and such is going to add restriction.
the turbo has to be choking up for sure, but if it was running super lean on one rotor then he might have melted down an exhaust insert on that one rotor again even if only partially
I am running a separate exhaust for WG ..... might be worth considering to get post turbine backpressure down. Have you tried VTA wastegate at this level ?
When the exhaust inset collapsed the car made 0 power and the engine made a loud tick noise. Even with power dropping off, I am seeing the highest acceleration numbers under 7,000 RPMs with my latest pulls.
I would go hood dump, but my neighbors would murder me and the HOA wouldn't be too happy. I'm already the "loud car guy" in my neighborhood.
I may be able to massage a 3.5" inch downpipe between the LIM and frame rail with some massaging, but a 4-inch would be impossible without some hacking of the frame rail.
I could run maybe 12-14" of 4" directly off the turbo then neck it down to 3.5" and run it all the way back....
what plugs are you running btw? Heard too much w/m will make engine lose hp and can also flood it and also the higher pressure of w/m(pump duty) the better so it vaporise the w/m better
I am using the BR10EIX 6801 NGK (same as NGK 6957 BR10EIX SOLID IX). I had to take a socket and lathe it down with a angle grinder to fit it inside of the rotor housing.
Yes adding water will likely rob some horsepower from the engine. Its definitely better to have five 200 cc/min nozzles than one 1000 cc/min nozzle to keep the injectant atomized.
I like the idea of putting as many safeguards on the motor as possible. I am almost 100% certain that my rear secondary injector (1650 cc/min) was not firing for months as I pushed the motor pull after pull at 20+ psi.
Running high amounts of water, methanol, and ethanol likely saved the motor during all this as I rarely documented any knock levels that worried me.
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 04-13-2020 at 07:14 AM.
Just a quick update. About 2-3 weeks ago I noticed that my coolant expansion tank was leaking from one of the welds. The tank was a POS and way undersized at like less than a half liter. So I decided to replace with a bigger tank.
In true me fashion, I purchased a $38 china bay coolant tank that is 1.25 liters, welded my old cap and assembly to the top for pressure relief and fabricated a bracket to hold in the perfect place. I am now just waiting on a 8AN orb to 10AN fitting to complete the connect from the tank to the thermostat housing.... About $55 in parts to make this.
03-18-2020, 06:25 AM
