When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yeah I really need to pull of the UIM, drill, tap, and plug all the vacuum ports as there are like 10 of um and I only use 1 for the brake booster and 1 for the distribution block.
Immediately after plug those vacuum ports off, idle is a bit lower and turbo seems to spool quicker. I also reduced the DC on the waste-gate from 51 to 30 just in case, and sure enough 30 duty cycle was 17-20 psi with the open gate and leak free. If I would have left it, I would surely have hit 30 psi boost cut on the first pull.
Do you run your blow off, fuelpressure reg and MAP sensor for the ECU off the distribution block?
Yes I do. I use the big vacuum line from the rear passenger side of the UIM to the distribution block then run smaller lines to everything. The only thing I don't run to the block is the wastegate/mac valve (compressor housing).
The issue of having now is the serial jack to 4 pin molex is only 4' long, so I had to buy a 8' 2.5mm jack extension and the signal quality must be poor because it keeps losing signal. I replug it into the ECU and it works for a bit then loses it again. So now I am buying a high quality 7' molex 4 pin extension cable to move the adapter harness to the very end of the run and hopefully will fix the signal issues. Nothing worse then takin it up to 8,000 in 3rd gear and having no data.... I could always wire in the analog signal from the gauge into the spare 0-5 volt input (APV) and use that as a backup if the serial cable keeps losing connection, but I should have the new extension cable on Saturday.... It never ends...
The vacuum nipple you use is a very bad one for map and fpr, its ok for bov and thats it. You should tap the map/fpr vacuum just after the throttle body and never use the same vacuum signal for actuators. Youll see the map and fpr will fluctuate alot less near the tb than where you are at the moment due to pulsations of engine and having actuators on the same map will create fluctuations also
Found something interesting while doing a pull this evening since I replaced the harness. I am still battling this POS serial cable into the Adaptronics. It constantly loses signal and I lose the ability to record my AFRs. I have tried a second 2.5 cable extension and it still drops signal. I am waiting on a 4 pin molex extension harness next and see if that fixes it, or I will be right back to logging the 0-5 volt output signal or contacting Innovative about the issue.
Anyway, on this pull the serial cable happened to be communicating with the ECU and logging correctly,. As soon as the last injectors come on, it goes pig rich. With this same tune this never happened before. Leading me to believe that one of the P2 injectors wasn't firing due to a issue with the harness or ground or something. Its possible that only 1 rotor was receiving a third stage and I was adding fuel to compensate even though one rotor was lean and one was rich.... Eventually the rich rotor would misfire and cause all of the issues I was experiencing. Seems possible since most the issues would happen in conjunction with the third stage. I'm going to have to pull about 10% of the fuel out of it at 7,000, and maybe even more up top.....
You should use separate feeds for signals especially MAP.
You might also want to run an OEM Mazda vac filter before the map sensor to smooth things out a bit...
Blowoff and FPR are much less critical
Do you have EGT sensors? That will help pick up discrepancies between rotor AFR.
Seems that these days the best would be 2 CAN Lambas.. one for each rotor. We can dream 😏
I wish I could put a lambda sensor in each runner, but I don't think it would survive the heat. I have a EGT in the front rotor, but that rarely exceeds 1650 F.
I believe I am making progress on the issue. Car has just been struggling in the 6-8k range. I want to have everything at 100% before turning it up.
I will have more than enough time now to work on things as the F1 season appears to be cancelled for the next few months.
52-95 mph pull in 3rd gear. No hesitation, no misfires, no sensor issues.
Almost 50% ethanol , 7,550 RPMs, and 22.5 psi, the car is pig rich (10.3:!) and i'm only 63% duty cycle in the third stage. This almost definitely confirms that either a P2 or secondary injector wasn't firing on one of the rotors before I changed the harness. To get flat A/F curves I was likely offsetting one rotor real lean and one rotor real rich.
I have a lot of headroom on the injectors now and everything is humming along. Look how smooth the injector DC is now.
I have a feeling that I can finally turn up the water and methanol injection now to get those IATs to drop!
Great news ! The other thing it confirms is : what a great antiknock fuel/additive ethanol is !
Oh ya, I cringe at the thought of what the true AFR ratio must have been in the lean rotor to counteract the rich one. I rarely saw a spike in the EGT in the front rotor, so I assume all the bad stuff was happening in the rear rotor..... It kind of makes sense why I had such a difficult time running more than a 1000 cc/min of methanol and water. The extra water may have just been putting more strain on the rich rotor, making the misfiring/sensor issue pop up quicker...
Plan is to lean it out 3-10% at 5300 RPMs and up, move wastegate duty cycle from 40 to 45 at 5,500 RPMs and up, and change water/methanol nozzle at the turbo from 500cc/min to 1000 cc/min. Monitor AFRs and IATs real close on next pull....
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 03-14-2020 at 01:16 PM.
Duty Cycle up to 45 which is a max boost of 26.82 psi, still ramping it up slowly to keep traction and 3rd gear from stripping.
50-97 mph pull, lifted a bit early at 7800 (rev limit 8200-8300)
Ethanol content ~40
I swapped the nozzle on the turbo compressor from 500 to 1000, still 500 at Greddy elbow.
Using a 2:1 methanol to water mixture, system on at 10 psi, full on at 30 psi. So I should be injecting like 850 cc of meth and 425 cc of water.
IAT still going from 86 to 127 F even with the compressor and Greddy elbow being hosed down with methanol and water.
Leading timing 10-12 degrees with 10 split
Acceleration through the meat of 3rd gear is 11.4 MPH/S using revs and 10.7 MPH/S using speed sensor
AFR 11.0-11.3 then dipping to 10.6 at the end of the pull. Still need to pull more fuel (should pick up more power)
Even pulling a bunch of fuel before the additional meth requires more fuel to be pulled.
At 7800 RPMs, 26.16 psi, and 10.6 AFR, I am still only at 62.8% on the 3rd injector
I think i'll give the motor a rest tonight....
I'm going to wire up the analog output signal from the MTXL, the serial cable keeps dropping signal and iv'e tried 3 different harnesses....
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 03-14-2020 at 07:18 PM.
New pull at 50 duty cycle on boost solenoid, 24-28 psi
Duty Cycle up to 50 which is a max boost of 27.98 psi, still ramping it up slowly to keep traction and 3rd gear from stripping (keep boost under 20 psi until after 5,000 RPMs). 48-99 mph pull, lifted a bit early at 7900 (rev limit 8200-8300) Ethanol content ~45
0 Knock So I should be injecting like 850 cc of meth and 425 cc of water. IAT still going from 98 to 140 F even with the compressor and Greddy elbow being hosed down with methanol and water. Leading timing 9.5-11.5 degrees with 10 split AFR 11.5 then dipping to 10.5 Still need to pull more fuel (should pick up more power) At 7900 RPMs, 28 psi, and 10.3 AFR, I am still only at 76.6% on the 3rd injector
MTXL wired up on analog, no issues now, AFRs seem to be no different than digital.
Fist time I have ever see a spot in the log where I was gaining over 900 RPMs/S (902), which is around 11.3 MPH/S based on gearing and tire diameter. When I ran a 97 mph in the 1/8th mile I was around 10.5 MPH/S through third gear. Power may be up about 10%-12% (40-50 hp) from then based on the logs.
Gotta pull more fuel and add boost. IATs are skyrocketing right now, hopefully all the water/meth/ethanol can keep the motor happy. Should have enough injector for 30 psi.
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 05-29-2020 at 09:21 PM.
I seem to recall it’s more a safety issue not worth the improvement. Methanol is quite poisonous and can be absorbed through the skin. You also can’t see flames with 100% meth and it ignites quite easily. While we do use flammable liquids, extra caution is needed with straight alcohol and there are additional dangers and also corrosion issues with straight meth in particular.
I don't think the AEM kit is meant to handle 100% methanol, I have it about 66% or so. I filled up the 1 gallon tank 2/3 of the way of 50:50 then dumped in 3 small bottles of yellow heet which is like 98% methanol.
My tank is going down with every pull and I have verified the nozzles are turning on. The compressor must just be soaking up all the cooling. I could always up the Greddy elbow to 1000 cc/min for 2,000 total at 1333 methanol/666 water, but if the system didn't turn on for some reason I would go super lean.... I can't imagine what the compressor discharge temp of a 362SXE at 30 psi would be, 300-400F??? Just keeping it at 140F after a few seconds at that level is an accomplishment....
Edit: Just looked it up, with a turbo intake temp of 100F (high under-hood temps) at STP, a compressor at 30 psi with 60% efficiency will have a output temp of 449F Even with a 80% intercooler efficiency, plenum temp should be 154F...
Next stop is 55 duty cycle and maybe 30 psi....
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 03-16-2020 at 06:31 AM.
I don't think there is any question at this point that running a S362 with 76mm turbine and a 0.91 AR rear housing on a bridge-ported motor at 30 psi at 8,000 RPMs is a recipe for very high back-pressure.
Since I stripped third gear about 6 months ago, the logs showed that I was over 20 psi at 4,600-4,700 RPMs. In cold weather I had seen 20 psi by 4,000 RPMs. Even though the car feels like s slouch until 5,000 now, keep the torque on a more linear power delivery should help the transmission last longer. This theory goes hand in hand with 2JZ's, people who run small turbos like a 6266 with E85 and build a bunch of boost at or below 4,000 RPMs tend to bend rods, which is why many people recommend a 6766 or bigger turbo on stock bottom ends to keep the torque from destroying the motor. Get the revs up a bit before applying the torque should help things out. I can definitely tell from my logs that power falls off after 7,000 RPMs, best power is between 6-7. Likely the back-pressure in the turbo and not the engine porting.
For a turbo upgrade this kind of leaves the EFR series out of the equation. I really see only a S366SXE or S369SXE as a upgrade that financially makes sense. Since i'm already limiting spool now, the additional lag really isn't a negative.
If you were in my position would you go S366SXE with 1.0 housing, S366SXE with 1.1 housing, S369SXE with 1.0, or S369SXE with 1.1???? I think they make a 1.27 AR open flanged T4, but I have a divided flange on the manifold even though i'm not running a true divided manifold with one 50mm wastegate.
A 366 isn’t going to be much of a difference/improvement over what you already have relative to your goal. You can see in both those 369 low/high dynos it’s pretty much delivering what you stated is your goal and at much lower boost. Probably 20 psi will get you over where you are at 30 psi now. The only potential issue is keeping back the desire to turn up the boost.
03-09-2020, 08:11 AM
Even with a 80% intercooler efficiency, plenum temp should be 154F...